Getting Around Denpasar
Denpasar is the capital and largest city of Bali and the island's main gateway, so most visitors pass through it at some point. The city centre is compact enough to explore on foot, but the wider metropolitan area spreads out toward Kuta, Sanur and Ubud, and traffic can be heavy. Here is how the main transport options work in practice.
Is There a Train, Metro or Tram?
No. There is no train station in Denpasar because there are no trains in Bali. The same goes for metro and tram services — none exist on the island. If your travel plans involve trains, they start on the other side of the Bali Strait in Java.
One useful workaround: at the Mengwi bus terminal you can buy so-called "train tickets" to Surabaya. These packages combine an air-conditioned bus to Banyuwangi, the ferry between Gilimanuk and Ketapang, and then a train from Banyuwangi onward. Tickets come in Business and Executive classes — Executive gives you air conditioning, a reclining seat and more leg room. You can buy them through the national rail operator's main site, through online travel agencies such as Tiket.com, Traveloka and Pegipegi, or offline at ticket booths, Indomaret and Alfamart minimarkets.
Buses and Public Transport
The main public transport option within the city is Trans Metro Dewata, also known as Teman bus, which connects various places around Denpasar and the surrounding area. To ride, you need an electronic money card such as Brizzi, E-money, Flazz or TapCash, or you can pay by QR code using apps like GoPay or OVO. Routes and stops can be viewed on the Moovit app and Google Maps, and a mobile app called Mitra Darat (in Indonesian only) shows near real-time GPS positions of the buses.
For longer journeys, Denpasar's main bus terminal is at Mengwi. Most buses from Java arrive there, and it is also where you can arrange onward connections. The former terminal at Ubung now only handles bemos. If you are heading to Java, buses run from most major cities including Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Bandung and Semarang, as well as Surabaya. It is best to turn up without a ticket early in the morning when departures are frequent; at other times, check schedules and reserve online. Local minibuses also depart regularly toward Gilimanuk, the ferry terminal to Java, from opposite the bus terminal entrance.
Bemos
Bemos are small vans that form a traditional shared transport network, and Ubung is the bemo centre of Bali. The catch is that bemo terminals are scattered all around town, and transferring between them can cost both time and money. The major terminals include Batubulan to the northeast for central and eastern destinations such as Besakih, Candidasa, Kintamani, Klungkung, Padangbai and Ubud; Tegal to the west for southern Bali including Kuta, Legian, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Sanur and Uluwatu; and Ubung to the north for Gilimanuk, Negara, Singaraja and Tabanan.
Within Denpasar itself, bemo routes are extremely complicated. Three more terminals — Gunung Agung, Sanglah and Kereneng — handle local routes, and most city routes seem to pass through Kereneng Terminal on Jalan Kamboja at some stage. Unless you are very patient and somewhat adventurous, local bemo transport is best left to the locals to figure out. A fixed price of Rp7,000 applies between bemo terminals within the city, though non-Indonesians may be asked to pay much more. Always ask a local for the normal price before getting in, or expect to be charged up to ten times what it should be. Bemos depart when they are full enough, which can mean a lengthy wait, and you will not find any bemo after 16:00.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are widely available for hailing, and pricing is negotiable. If you are travelling as a group, you may want to negotiate a bemo for a set rate to your destination instead. Be aware that while Indonesians are famously friendly, overcharging visitors is common if you don't agree on a price first. For getting between bemo terminals within the city, a taxi can actually work out cheaper than the bemo, and is certainly faster and more comfortable.
Walking
Denpasar can be a bit steamy and full of exhaust fumes, but the centre of the city does lend itself to getting around on foot, and walking is recommended there. For longer hops across the metropolitan area, you will want a vehicle.
Motorbike Rental
As elsewhere in Bali, motorbikes can be rented in Denpasar, though it is more normal for a visitor to arrive with a bike rather than rent one here.
Getting In from the Airport
Denpasar International Airport is the main gateway to Bali, and the city is easily reached by car or taxi from the main tourist regions of south Bali. A trip from Kuta, Legian or Seminyak takes roughly 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic. Sanur is about 15 minutes to the east, Ubud about 30 minutes to the north, and Tabanan about 40 minutes to the northwest.
A non-metered taxi from the airport costs around Rp180,000. Given that pricing is negotiable, it is worth agreeing on the fare before you set off.