Getting Around Havana: A Practical Guide for Visitors
Havana offers several ways to navigate the city, from traditional public transport to taxis and walking. As a visitor, you'll find options ranging from modern official taxis to historic shared vehicles and bus networks, each with distinct advantages depending on your budget, comfort level, and familiarity with the city.
Taxis and Ride Services
Taxis are the most convenient option for tourists moving around Havana. Official government taxis include modern vehicles such as Peugeots, Skodas, and Mercedes, alongside older Russian Ladas and vintage American Chevrolets from the 1950s. Officially, tourists are required to use government taxis only.
When negotiating fares in unofficial taxis, agree on the price before starting your journey. Illegal taxi fares are typically no cheaper than official rates. For trips around the city center, using unofficial taxis is generally straightforward, though official taxis remain the legally mandated option.
Public Buses
Havana operates an extensive bus network through the MetroBus system. Buses connect major areas of the city, though they tend to be overcrowded during peak times. Service is frequent on main routes, making buses an economical choice for visitors willing to share space with locals. Bus journeys generally take longer than taxis but cost significantly less.
Colectivos (Shared Taxis)
Colectivos are shared taxi vans that follow set routes and stop to pick up and drop off passengers. They are more frequent than buses, make fewer stops, and accommodate only seated passengers. These vehicles are particularly useful for traveling to and from the airport or between neighborhoods, offering a middle ground between the cost of an official taxi and the crowding of public buses.
Rail and Metro Networks
Havana serves as the hub for Cuba's railway network, with La Habana Central station located in the southern part of downtown. The main line connects Havana to Santiago de Cuba via Matanzas, Santa Clara, and Camagüey, with departures every other day. Additional services link Havana to other major cities including Pinar del Río, Cienfuegos, Sancti Spiritus, and Morón, though many operate overnight or on limited schedules.
Due to financial constraints, train services are scaled back and may run every other day or only twice weekly. All services, including overnight trains, offer seating only—there are no sleeping cars. It is essential to confirm in advance that service is running on your intended travel date. Primera class seating is available on select routes, such as the main line to Santiago de Cuba, though these departures are limited.
Walking
Havana's layout consists of three distinct areas: Old Havana, Vedado, and newer suburban districts. Walking is practical within these neighborhoods and allows you to explore the city's architecture, history, and street life at your own pace. The compact nature of Old Havana in particular makes it highly walkable for visitors.
Getting from the Airport to the City
José Martí International Airport has three main terminals. Terminal 1 handles domestic flights, Terminal 2 serves charter and some scheduled flights from the United States, and Terminal 3 processes all other international flights. Moving between terminals is possible via taxi or a shuttle service called Connexions.
To reach the city from the airport, you have several options:
- Official taxi: An official taxi to Havana's center costs approximately US$20–25, calculated at roughly US$1 per kilometer.
- Colectivo (shared taxi): Shared taxis follow routes between the airport terminals and central locations such as Parque Fraternidad, costing less than US$1 per passenger. They are more frequent than buses and only accept seated passengers.
- Public bus: MetroBus routes P-12 and P-16 stop within 400–500 meters of Terminals 1 and 2. Route P-12 terminates at Parque Fraternidad near Old Havana, while route P-16 ends at Parque Maceo near the Malecón in Centro Habana. Buses operate until approximately 20:00 but are typically very crowded and slower than taxis.
- Illegal taxi: Unofficial taxis are available but should be avoided for airport transfers, even though they operate within the city center.
For passengers arriving at Terminal 3 (international flights), exiting at the Terminal 2 stop and walking approximately 50 meters west to a bus shelter provides access to an hourly bus, shared taxis, or a 2.5-kilometer walk to Terminal 3 itself. The hourly bus does not enter Terminal 3 but stops at an unmarked location on Carretera de Murgas across from La Casanosa restaurant, approximately 200 meters northeast of the terminal.
Airport Facilities and Services
José Martí International Airport has an ATM and currency exchange in the departure hall on the first floor, though these services are unreliable and may not always be operational. Do not depend on them. Terminal 3 contains two tobacco shops, a small supermarket, Wi-Fi (accessible only with an ETECSA card), souvenir shops, and a snack bar serving alcohol. There is no ATM on the departure side of Terminal 3, and not all shops accept credit cards. Prices for tobacco and alcohol at the airport match those in downtown Havana shops.
Customs and immigration processing can be slow, with baggage reclaim sometimes taking up to 1.5 hours. Customs officials are thorough and may inspect electronics and other items carefully.
Alternative Entry Points
International flights to resort areas such as Varadero sometimes offer cheaper fares than flights into Havana. From Varadero, a bus journey of approximately three hours via Viazul will bring you to Havana's main bus terminal.