Getting Your Bearings
Lhasa sits at an altitude of 3,656 metres, making it one of the highest cities in the world, so it is worth pacing yourself in your first days and treating transport choices as part of that adjustment. The city is the inner urban district of Lhasa City in the Tibet Autonomous Region and has been the religious and administrative capital of Tibet since the mid-17th century. Most of what a visitor comes to see — the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, Barkhor and Ramoche — is clustered in the central area, which is easily navigable on foot.
One practical point shapes everything else: non-Chinese nationals are required to obtain a special permit and must have a tour guide to visit Tibet. That means your movements are often arranged for you, and your guide is also your best source of up-to-date advice on which modes you can use.
On Foot
Walking is the simplest and most rewarding way to cover the historic core. The central area containing the main tourist attractions — Potala, Jokhang, Barkhor and Ramoche — is easily navigable on foot, so you can string together a full day of sightseeing without needing any vehicle at all.
Rail: Arriving and Departing by Train
Lhasa is served by the Qinghai-Tibet (Qingzang) railway, which connects the city with Golmud, with services continuing on to Xining, Beijing, Chengdu, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Chongqing. There are also some trains to Shigatse. Journeys from the eastern cities are long — measured in days rather than hours — so treat the train as an experience in itself rather than a quick transfer.
On arrival at the station, you will be led to a checkpoint outside where your passport and permit are checked. Once through, your tour guide should meet you right outside the station. If for some reason they don't, a taxi between the urban area and the train station should cost a flat ¥30, and no drivers use the meter — be sure to fix the price in advance, as many drivers will try to charge ¥100.
Metro and Tram
Visitors should plan on buses, taxis, minibuses and walking instead.
Buses and Minibuses
Public buses are numerous and cost ¥1. Non-Chinese nationals are permitted to travel on the buses within the city, although you will make yourself an attraction by doing so, since this rarely occurs. Bus numbers are recognisable, but destinations are written in Chinese, so you need to know in advance which line you want.
Minibuses operate to areas such as Norbulingka, Sera Monastery, Drepung Monastery and other nearby sites. Most of these destinations are also on public bus lines, so you usually have a choice.
"Pilgrim buses" leave from in front of Jokhang Temple or from the parking lot near the temple, departing early in the morning for destinations outside Lhasa, including Tsurphu Gompa, Ganden Gompa, Nyemo (Dazi), Phenpo Lhundrub (Linzhou), Meldro Gungkar (Mozhugongka), Chushul (Qushui), Taktse (Dazi) and Gongkar (Gongga). Tickets are available at the ticket office at the parking lot or when you board the bus. Whether non-Chinese nationals may travel on these is a bit of a grey area — since you have to have a travel guide with you anyway, ask them to enquire. Be aware that the rules for organising tourist tours require advance planning, so you probably won't be able to arrange this on the spot.
For travel beyond the city, note that non-Chinese nationals are not allowed to ride the intercity buses in Tibet. For Chinese nationals, there is frequent and cheap bus service between Lhasa and nearly all parts of Tibet.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis cost ¥10 for anywhere in Lhasa city, and you hail them from the side of the street. Be prepared for taxi-sharing: the driver will often pull over if he suspects he can find other passengers heading in the same direction. Each passenger pays ¥10, which is how drivers make a better income despite the standard fare. It is also possible to use Didi and other Chinese ridesharing apps.
Two Wheels
Cycle rickshaws are less frequent than before and hard to find. Bicycle hire is available from some hotels or cycle shops, and it's a good way to explore if you have half a day free on your tour schedule. Pollution is not as bad as in many Chinese cities, but driving habits are — the best tactic is to stick close to a local cyclist or cycle rickshaw when negotiating busy junctions. Rental bicycles through apps are not as common as in other Chinese cities; instead, electric scooters are very common and found scattered around the city.
Getting In from the Airport
Lhasa Gonggar Airport (LXA) lies southwest of the city. There are flights from Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Guangzhou, Kunming, Qamdo, Shanghai, Xi'an, Xining and Zhongdian (Shangri-La), plus international flights to Kathmandu, Nepal.
The airport is 40–60 minutes from Lhasa on a four-lane highway that burrows directly through nearby hills. Non-Chinese nationals are required to be met at the airport by their tour guide. For everyone else, taxis are available outside the airport, and there is also an official shuttle bus costing ¥25.
Practical Summary
- Walk the historic core — Potala, Jokhang, Barkhor and Ramoche are all within easy walking distance of each other.
- City buses cost ¥1 and are open to non-Chinese nationals, but routes are signed in Chinese only.
- Taxis are a flat ¥10 anywhere in the city; expect the driver to pick up additional passengers, and consider Didi or other Chinese ride-hailing apps.
- Minibuses serve Norbulingka, Sera and Drepung, mostly overlapping with public bus lines.
- Pilgrim buses from near Jokhang Temple reach outlying monasteries and towns; ask your guide whether you may use them.
- Bicycle hire is available from some hotels and cycle shops; electric scooters are common and scattered around the city.
- From Gonggar Airport, use the official shuttle bus (¥25) or a taxi outside the terminal; non-Chinese nationals must be met by their guide.
- If you arrive by train, expect a passport and permit check outside the station and a flat ¥30 taxi fare into town — agree the price first.