Getting Around Yaoundé: An Overview
Yaoundé is Cameroon's capital and its second-largest city, set in the Centre Region at an elevation of roughly 750 metres. Most of its economy revolves around the civil service and diplomatic services, which gives the city a somewhat higher standard of living and security than much of the rest of the country. For a visitor, that translates into a city where getting around is manageable, but where you should expect to negotiate, stay alert, and plan around heavy weekday traffic.
The city has no metro or tram network. Ground transport consists of buses, shared taxis, motorbike taxis, trains for intercity journeys, and private cars. Two trans-African automobile routes pass through Yaoundé — the Tripoli–Cape Town Highway and the Lagos–Mombasa Highway — and the city has made significant progress in road construction in recent years.
Rail: Intercity, Not Urban
Yaoundé's rail network is not a way to move around within the city. Passenger services are operated by Camrail, and the lines run west to the port city of Douala and north to N'Gaoundéré. Yaoundé station, known as Gare-voyageur de Yaoundé, sits just north of the city centre.
If you are arriving from Douala, modern Intercity trains make the journey in a few hours, and there are several daily departures. An overnight train from N'Gaoundéré with couchettes and sleeper cars runs daily, and slower Omnibus trains run several times a week, serving rural communities along the line.
Train travel here is an experience in itself: the trains move slowly, so you get to see the landscape, meet fellow travellers, and buy from vendors who board at stops. On the other hand, trains may not be air conditioned, are often delayed (freight trains have priority, so passenger trains frequently wait at stations), and accidents are sadly all too common. Be aware of ticket scalpers and petty thieves. If comfort and speed matter more to you, take a bus or fly instead.
Buses and Other Public Transport
Public city buses are operated by Stecy. Most routes radiate out from the centre along the main streets, and the company also runs two lines to the airport, taking different routes but both ending at the central post office. Network maps are available on Stecy's website.
You pay for bus trips with a "Tap & Go" magnetic card, similar to public transport systems elsewhere in the world. Buy and reload the cards at newsstands and other points of sale. When you board, hold the card against the orange ticket machine next to the driver.
For travel into and out of the city, many bus companies operate from Yaoundé, particularly in the Nsam and Mvan districts. Different stations serve different regions: Tongolo handles traffic from the west and northwest; Biyem Assi from Douala and the north and northwest; Mvan from Douala and the south and east; Nsam from Douala and the south; and Mimboman from the east.
Bus traffic is unregulated and individual companies are often short-lived, so ask locals at the station which company currently has the best safety reputation. If you are coming from Douala, the "prestige" service is worth the splurge — tickets cost about double a regular fare, but the buses are better maintained and cleaner, and they have seatbelts. Bring a jumper in case the air conditioning is cranked up. Regular buses tend to be crammed, though you can buy more than one seat for yourself. Prices depend on when you travel: departures before holidays and in the morning tend to cost more, and some companies charge extra for luggage.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Shared taxis, recognisable by their yellow colour, are plentiful and the standard way to get around. They will slow down for you, but you should flag anyway, call out your destination, and beep to signal yes. There are no meters — fares are negotiated. The normal price is around FCFA 250, unless you are travelling a long way; for a short hop you can try calling "cent francs" along with your destination. If a driver asks "paye combien?", say 300 francs and you will probably be fine.
If you want the taxi to yourself, say "depot". This costs more — probably around FCFA 1,000 — so negotiate beforehand. You can also rent a taxi by the hour, around FCFA 2,500–3,000 per hour; negotiate in advance and don't pay more than FCFA 3,000.
If a taxi doesn't stop for you, it is probably because the driver has already been hired for the whole vehicle. Taxis are normally licensed for four passengers, but some drivers fit up to six (four in the back, two in the front). Use your own judgement about getting in with passengers who look sketchy. The driver should have a licence hanging from the rear-view mirror — you can try to check that the photo matches.
The ride-hailing app Yango is available in Yaoundé.
Moto Taxis
Motorbike taxis, known as motos, also exist, and on the outskirts of the city they are sometimes the only available form of public transport. They take one or two passengers and often drive carelessly, so you should try to avoid using them. Perhaps surprisingly, moto taxis are restricted to operating only within their own district, which makes them suitable only for short trips.
Walking and Cycling
Walking in Yaoundé requires attention. Watch your step: hazards include potholes, missing manhole covers and mud puddles. You will also encounter street vendors who spread their merchandise across the pavement.
Cycling is generally dangerous here, given the hilly geography, the absence of biking infrastructure, poor roads and little respect from cars. It can nevertheless be a good way to explore the city on Sundays, when traffic is much lighter.
Driving Yourself
Given the lack of other transport modes, driving can be a practical way to get around, but as a foreigner it takes time to adapt to local driving culture. Locals treat small scratches, bumps and broken side mirrors as a normal part of traffic.
Major road crossings are usually roundabouts, but the rules are inverted from what you may be used to in Europe: cars entering have the right-of-way, and cars already in the roundabout must yield. At traffic lights, turning right on red is not only allowed but mandated — though local drivers routinely ignore traffic lights altogether.
Traffic typically flows at 40–50 km/h, and even on an empty road you shouldn't drive faster, because vehicles, people and animals can emerge from side streets without warning. If you are in an accident with injuries, leave money for first aid (at least FCFA 10,000) and inform the police, for instance at the nearest roadblock. Roadblocks run by the police, gendarmerie and Prévention Routière are a frequent sight, and you will need to show both your driver's licence and a range of car papers.
Traffic jams are common even though there are relatively few vehicles per head of population, though road improvements in recent years have helped. The main arteries run from the north (towards Mballa) to the south (towards Douala) and east (towards Ayos and Mbalmayo), and there is a ring road in the southeast from Mvan through Ekoumdoum, Awae and Nkomo to the Akonolinga highway in Quartier Biteng, which is being slowly expanded. When the president or VIPs travel to and from the airport, the main street can be closed for several hours. Asking for bribes at checkpoints is reportedly common, and if something is wrong with your documents the car may be impounded, leading to a long bureaucratic process and hefty fines. If that happens, contact your embassy for help.
In the city centre you must use marked parking spaces; outside the centre you can park wherever you like as long as you don't block traffic. Guarded parking lots are a good idea for overnight parking.
Getting from the Airport into the City
Yaoundé Nsimalen International Airport (NSI) is the main civilian hub, located at Nsimalen south of the city. Nearby Yaoundé Airport is used by the military. Many visitors enter through Nsimalen: from outside Africa there are flights from Brussels, Istanbul and Paris, and you can also fly in from Addis Ababa, Casablanca, Nairobi and airports in nearby countries. Most flights descend first in Douala, but these flights frequently continue on to Yaoundé without requiring passengers to disembark.
A taxi ride between the airport and the city costs about FCFA 6,000, though it can be negotiated down to FCFA 4,500. Rates are negotiated before the ride, so agree on the price first.
Alternatively, you can get off in Douala and take one of the numerous bus or train services to Yaoundé — a three-to-four-hour ride. Domestic airlines also fly the Douala–Yaoundé route regularly. If you prefer public transport on arrival, remember that Stecy operates two bus lines to the airport, both ending at the central post office, paid for with a Tap & Go card.
Practical Notes
- Traffic in the city can be heavy on weekdays but is very light on weekends — plan sightseeing and errands accordingly.
- Fares and prices are almost always negotiated in person; agree before you set off.
- Keep small change handy for shared taxis and motos.
- Carry your driver's licence and vehicle papers if driving, and expect to show them at roadblocks.
- Bus stations are spread across the city by destination region, so confirm which station serves your route before heading out.