Getting Around Cuiabá
Cuiabá is the capital and largest city of the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso, and it forms a single metropolitan area with its neighbour Várzea Grande. Most visitors arrive here on their way to the Pantanal or the Chapada dos Guimarães, and the good news is that the parts of the city you are most likely to use are compact and easy to navigate.
On Foot
Walking is a genuinely practical option for a visitor. The hotels, sights and restaurants are all within walking distance of the town centre, and the main hotel neighbourhood and centre of town are considered quite safe. The one area to avoid on foot is along the riverside.
Rail, Metro and Trams
Cuiabá has no rail, metro or tram network for visitors to use. Getting around the city is done by road, on foot, by bus or by taxi.
Buses and Public Transport
Buses are the main form of public transport in the city. Note that the waterways running through Cuiabá no longer support medium or large ships because of sand banks along the river, so boats are not an option for moving around the city itself.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing
Taxis are inexpensive and quick, and they are a convenient way to reach the airport or the bus station. Lodges in the region will usually arrange transportation and pickup from hotels, which is worth asking about if you are heading out on a Pantanal tour.
Arriving by Air
Cuiabá is served by Marechal Rondon International Airport (CGB). Despite the name, virtually all flights are domestic, so if you are coming from abroad you will most likely fly in from São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. The airport is the third most important in the Brazilian Mid-West region. A taxi is a quick and inexpensive way to cover the trip into town.
Arriving by Car
You can also get in by car, as highways come into the city from all directions. Cuiabá sits at the intersection of many major roads, which makes it a natural base for exploring the surrounding region.
Driving Out to the Pantanal
Many visitors drive the Transpantaneira, the road that heads into the Pantanal. Two things are worth knowing before you set out. First, despite the name, the highway does not cross the entire flood plain — it stops at Porto Jofre, well short of the opposite edge. Second, only the first few kilometres are paved; the rest is dirt road, and travel slows to a crawl over a long series of wood and concrete bridges, many of them in poor shape despite regular repair. The posted speed limit is 60 km/h, but expect to drive significantly slower, especially when the roads turn to mud after rain. The slow pace is part of the appeal: the ditches on either side of the roadbed have become favourite feeding grounds for kingfishers, capybara, egrets, jabiru storks, giant river otters and caiman, and a single day on the Transpantaneira can show you more wildlife than a week in the Amazon.
Practical Tips
- Base yourself in the town centre or the main hotel neighbourhood, where the sights, restaurants and hotels are within walking distance.
- Avoid the riverside area, particularly on foot.
- Taxis are inexpensive and quick for trips to the airport or bus station.
- If you are heading out on a Pantanal tour, ask your lodge about arranging transport and hotel pickup.
- If you plan to drive the Transpantaneira, allow plenty of extra time for the unpaved sections and the bridges, and be prepared for mud after rain.