Getting Around Dhaka: A Practical Visitor's Guide
Dhaka is one of the world's most congested cities, with traffic moving at an average of just 4.8 kilometres per hour. However, the city has developed a diverse and accessible transport system that visitors can navigate with a bit of preparation and patience. Understanding your options—from cycle rickshaws to buses, trains, and ride-hailing services—will help you move efficiently through the city.
Arriving at the Airport
Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport (DAC) is Dhaka's primary airport, serving regular international flights from major hubs across Asia, Europe, and the Middle East. The airport is relatively modern and efficient, though immigration queues can be lengthy during peak hours.
If you need a visa, most foreign nationals can obtain one upon arrival at the airport for US$51 or €51. If you are transferring between the international and domestic terminals, be aware that some airport officials may attempt to mislead you into paying bribes. If this occurs, simply walk out and proceed to the domestic terminal entrance.
Several transport options connect the airport to central Dhaka. A railway station is located next to the international airport, offering train connections to various parts of the city. You can also use taxis, ride-hailing services, or buses—the same options available for moving around the city.
Rickshaws: The Iconic Mode
Dhaka is dubbed "the rickshaw capital of the world," and cycle rickshaws are the most popular and ubiquitous form of transport. They are valued for their affordability and ability to navigate narrow streets that larger vehicles cannot access. Rickshaws are an essential part of the city's transport culture and a practical choice for short journeys.
Auto-rickshaws (also called "baby taxis") are three-wheeled motor vehicles that offer another swift option. These vehicles run on compressed natural gas (CNG) and are colour-coded green and black. They are particularly popular with the middle class and offer a faster alternative to cycle rickshaws for moderate distances.
Buses and Minibuses
Buses are a major public transport mode in Dhaka, operated by numerous private companies alongside the state-owned Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation (BRTC). The bus system serves over 300 routes, with many overlapping.
Private buses are generally characterised as unfit and uncomfortable, with many featuring unhygienic interiors, broken windows, damaged seats, and malfunctioning brakes or lights. However, they remain widely used and affordable. The BRTC operates a fleet primarily composed of double-deckers and single-deckers from Indian manufacturers, though these vehicles have been criticised for going out of service quickly. A bus rapid transit system has been under construction since 2017 and is projected to improve dedicated bus service.
When using buses, carry a card with your hotel or accommodation address written on it. This will help if you need directions or assistance from fellow passengers. It is also advisable to agree on fares in advance or, when available, insist on using the meter.
Trains and Metro Systems
Dhaka is the hub of Bangladesh Railways, with Kamalapur railway station serving as the central and largest railway complex in the country. The station is a striking modernist building located in central Dhaka and handles numerous daily arrivals and departures, with dining facilities and accommodation available within the station complex.
Trains connect Dhaka to almost all major cities in Bangladesh, typically running two or three times per day with both daytime and overnight options. The only international train connection is the Maitree Express, which departs early morning three times per week from Dhaka Cantonment railway station to Kolkata, India.
Bangladeshi Railways offers an e-ticket service, though this works only with domestic credit cards and phone numbers. Tourists are advised to make reservations at the station directly or through a travel agency. Since trains are popular, book in advance whenever possible.
Dhaka Metro Rail is under development as a rapid transit system. These metro lines, once completed, will provide additional fast public transport options across the city and connect major transport hubs including Kamalapur railway station.
Taxis and Ride-Hailing Services
Taxis are available throughout Dhaka, and ride-hailing services using motorcycles are rapidly gaining popularity. These services offer a flexible alternative to traditional taxis and buses.
When using any taxi service, always agree on a fare before boarding, or confirm the driver uses a meter. Ensure the driver knows your destination from the start unless you are able to navigate and direct them yourself. Some drivers may claim local knowledge but take longer routes; selecting reliable drivers and building relationships with them is advisable. If a driver demands additional money upon arrival, stick to the agreed fare and refuse to pay extra.
Walkability and General Navigation
Dhaka's street layout can be challenging to navigate on foot, and congestion makes walking sometimes impractical for longer distances. However, walking short distances between transport stops or to nearby attractions is often feasible and can help you find fair-priced transport options. If you struggle to negotiate a fair fare with one driver, walking to the next available transport option often yields better results.
Carry your accommodation address on a card so you can show it to drivers and ask directions if needed. When arriving by ferry at Sadarghat port, the immediate area is extremely crowded; it is advisable to walk several hundred metres north to catch onward rickshaws or taxis, which face constant congestion near the port itself.
Planning Your Journey
Expect congestion as a constant feature of travel in Dhaka. Budget extra time for all journeys, and avoid peak traffic hours if your schedule permits. Multiple transport options exist for most routes, so if one mode is unavailable or overcrowded, alternatives are usually nearby. Being flexible and patient will make your navigation of Dhaka more pleasant and efficient.