Stand at Bab al-Yaman in the late afternoon and the city shows you what it is: a gate in an ancient wall, and beyond it a market and lanes of tower houses rising storey on storey, each window framed by a white gypsum arch. Sanaa sits high in the mountains, and the light and the pace both change with the hour.
This guide suits travellers who want architecture, markets and long unhurried afternoons rather than a checklist of sights. It covers the Old City and its souk, the city's museums and mosques, and one excursion outside the walls. Practical details are kept to what the sources state; where something is not documented, it is left out.
Top things to do in Sanaa
1. Old City of Sanaa
The Old City is World Heritage Listed and is the reason most visitors come. Its character is architectural: multiple-storey tower houses decorated with geometric patterns and set with the distinctive qamariya windows.
Give it more than one pass. Walk it in the morning when the lanes are busy with trade, and again in the late afternoon when the facades catch the light. The souk and many excellent restaurants are located nearby, so you can fold eating into the same outing.
2. Souk al-Milh
Within the Old City, Souk al-Milh is arguably the best souk in the Arabian Peninsula. It is the commercial heart of the old quarter and the place to see the city's trades and crafts at work.
Combine it with Bab al-Yaman, which is the gate leading into the Old City and sits close to the souk and to many excellent restaurants. Come with time to wander rather than a shopping list.
3. Bab al-Yaman
Bab al-Yaman is one of the city's most important landmarks: the gate leading into the Old City, which is surrounded by ancient walls. It is the natural starting point for a first walk.
Use it as your orientation point. The souk and many excellent restaurants are located nearby, so it works equally well as the beginning or the end of an afternoon in the Old City.
4. Great Mosque of Sana'a
The Great Mosque of Sana'a is one of the oldest mosques in the world, and the oldest known written copy of the Quran was found here. That alone makes it worth seeking out.
Approach it as a place of worship rather than a monument, and plan your visit around the Old City so you are not crossing the city twice.
5. Al Saleh Mosque
Al Saleh Mosque is one of the largest mosques in the world and is located near the heavily guarded Presidential Palace. It is the city's most prominent modern religious building.
Because of its position near the Presidential Palace, expect security in the surrounding area and keep your visit straightforward.
6. National Museum of Yemen
The National Museum of Yemen is housed in a former palace that was restored and converted into a museum. Here you can learn about the nation's history and culture, and most exhibits include English descriptions along with Arabic.
It opens 09:00-12:00 and entry is YR500. The morning-only hours make it a natural first stop of the day, before the Old City.
7. Military Museum
The Military Museum displays artifacts related to the Yemeni military. Explanations are all in Arabic, though there is a part outside with English explanations about some of the more modern artifacts.
It opens in the morning from 09:00-13:30 and in the afternoon from 15:00-20:00, and entry is YR200. If you do not read Arabic, head for the outdoor section first.
8. Wadi Dhahr
Wadi Dhahr is a valley a few kilometres outside Sanaa, with green fields, villages, and the face Rock Palace of an Imam of Yemen. It is the obvious change of scene from the dense streets of the Old City.
Treat it as a half-day excursion and set aside time for the drive out and back rather than squeezing it between city stops.
9. People-watching over coffee
Sanaa is a good place for people-watching and culture observing. The unhurried pace of Yemeni life means it is quite possible to sit in a coffee shop and watch the world go by for hours on end.
Build this into your day deliberately rather than treating it as time lost. It pairs naturally with a morning in the souk or an afternoon near Bab al-Yaman.
10. A qat session
If you want an experience you can only get in Yemen, and you are prepared to risk your health, you can participate in a qat session. Qat is a mild narcotic chewed by most males in Yemen, who spend their afternoons chewing the leaf and conversing.
A bag costs no more than 5 US dollars, and you can get inferior product for less. Side effects are lack of appetite and insomnia, and qat is a controlled substance in many other countries, so those trying to bring it into such countries risk arrest.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the National Museum of Yemen, which opens 09:00-12:00. If you have time before it closes, the Military Museum also opens in the morning from 09:00-13:30.
Afternoon. Enter the Old City through Bab al-Yaman and spend the afternoon between the lanes of tower houses and Souk al-Milh. Break the walking with coffee and people-watching, then visit the Great Mosque of Sana'a while you are still inside the walls.
Evening. Eat at one of the restaurants near Bab al-Yaman and the souk. If the Military Museum's afternoon window from 15:00-20:00 still fits your schedule, it can close the day; otherwise leave Al Saleh Mosque for a separate outing, since it sits near the heavily guarded Presidential Palace.
Frequently asked questions
What are the opening hours and entry fees for the museums?
The National Museum of Yemen opens 09:00-12:00 and costs YR500. The Military Museum opens in the morning from 09:00-13:30 and in the afternoon from 15:00-20:00, and costs YR200.
Do I need Arabic to get anything out of the museums?
Most exhibits at the National Museum of Yemen include English descriptions along with Arabic. At the Military Museum, explanations are all in Arabic, but there is a part outside with English explanations about some of the more modern artifacts.
Is there anywhere worth visiting outside the city?
Wadi Dhahr is a valley a few kilometres outside Sanaa, with green fields, villages, and the face Rock Palace of an Imam of Yemen.
What should I know before trying qat?
A bag costs no more than 5 US dollars, and inferior product is available for less. Side effects are lack of appetite and insomnia, and qat is a controlled substance in many other countries, so attempting to bring it into such countries risks arrest.
Decide how many days you want in the Old City, check the museum hours against your dates, and start planning your trip to Sanaa.