Stand on the second floor of Ngọ Môn and the courtyard below opens out in a wide, ordered sweep, with the flag tower behind you and the moats of the Imperial City running off toward the walls. It is the moment most visitors remember from Hue, and it costs nothing beyond your ticket to the enclosure.
Hue suits travellers who are happy to spend a full day among tombs and temples, moving between them by boat, bicycle or hired car, and who would rather sit quietly in a garden than rush a checklist. The city rewards patience: several of its finest monuments are semi-ruined, and the pleasure is in the scale and the silence as much as the architecture.
1. Imperial City of Hue (Đại Nội)
The former imperial seat of government and Hue's prime attraction, this is a sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, with art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. Its size makes it unusually peaceful. Parts were damaged in 1947 and again during the Tet Offensive of 1968, so some areas are now empty fields, bits of walls and an explanatory plaque, while other buildings are intact and a few are in sparkling condition.
Allow several hours to see it properly. It is open daily, and inside you can pay to dress in the king's or queen's clothing and sit on the throne for a photo.
2. Ngọ Môn
The main southern entrance to the city, built in 1833 by Minh Mang, and the principal entrance to the Imperial Enclosure. The central door and the bridge connecting to it were reserved exclusively for the emperor, who would address his officials and the people from the top of the gate.
Climb up to the second floor for a view of the courtyard. Since it is the way into the Imperial City of Hue, pair the two in a single visit.
3. Thái Hòa Palace
The emperor's coronation hall, where he would sit in state and receive foreign dignitaries. It sits directly in front of the Forbidden Purple City, so you pass it naturally as you move through the Imperial City of Hue.
Look for it as part of your walk through the enclosure rather than as a separate stop.
4. Thien Mu Pagoda
Perched on a bluff over the river and housing fine gold and silver Buddha images, the pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city. Thien Mu means "elderly celestial woman", a reference to an old legend about the pagoda's founding. There are plenty of opportunities for photographs, and the historical Austin car of Thích Quảng Đức is kept here.
Entry is free. Combine it with a river boat trip, since the tombs are reached the same way.
5. Tomb of Tu Duc
Built between 1864 and 1867, the complex served as a second Imperial City where the emperor went for working vacations. Tu Duc's contemplative nature and poetic spirit are reflected in the landscape and the arrangement of the 50 buildings that once stood here: a vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions and tombs and temples dedicated to wives and favoured courtesans. The courtesans' quarters are in ruins, with only outlines and crumbling walls left amid overgrown grass, but other areas are stunningly well-preserved. The emperor's own tomb, tucked away at the back, is surprisingly modest.
The tombs of Empress Le Thien Anh and Emperor Kien Phuc are also here. Try to dodge the crowds. The emperor himself was not buried here but in a secret location elsewhere in Hue that has yet to be rediscovered.
6. Tomb of Minh Mang
In this opulent complex the main buildings are arranged on an east-west axis, including a courtyard surrounded by warrior statues and several temples and pavilions. Several bridges cross two lakes before the axis ends at the vast burial mound, which is circled by a fence. The mausoleum has large gardens and lakes and is a pleasant place to sit and relax.
If you are dropped off by boat, note that there is a stretch of souvenir sellers to navigate during the short walk to the entrance.
7. Tomb of Khai Dinh
The tombs mostly date from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, when the emperors had been reduced to figureheads under French colonial rule and had little else to do than build themselves elaborate tombs.
See it as part of a full day on the Perfume River rather than as a quick stop.
8. Tomb of Gia Long
The most remote of the tombs, quiet and fallen into disrepair, as Gia Long, the first Nguyen emperor, was notoriously despotic. It is the oldest of the tombs.
Because of its distance, treat it as a dedicated trip rather than an add-on, and plan transport in advance.
9. Tomb of Thieu Tri
Built in 1848. This emperor and his wife were the most revered and loved throughout the country, and although he ruled for only seven years he was the most sorely missed. In a time of strife and economic problems he was careful with the country's treasury and improved his people's living standard. His last wish was to be placed in a tomb that was not extravagant, parting ways with the tradition of lavish final resting places.
It is one of the closer tombs to the city, so it fits neatly into a half-day by bicycle or motorbike.
10. Tomb of Dong Khanh
Like the others, it is reached from the Perfume River and can be walked to from the wharves.
Most tombs are open from 07:30 or 08:00 to 17:30 depending on the season, so check locally before setting out.
11. Trường Sanh Residence
Translated as the "Palace of Longevity", this was the residence of King Tu Duc's mother, Empress Tu Du, under the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century. It lies in Tu Cam Thanh, one of the two major parts of the Hue Citadel, and is under renovation, with work covering the palace's protective moat, decorative man-made rock formations and mountains, bonsai gardens and the palace gate.
It is not officially open to the public, but it is possible to enter the grounds, and it should be seen, as even in its overgrown state its beauty is recognisable.
12. Forbidden Purple City
Directly behind Thái Hòa Palace, this was almost entirely destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive, and only the rather nondescript Mandarin Palaces on both sides remain.
Visit it as part of your route through the Imperial City of Hue, immediately after Thái Hòa Palace.
13. Huế Museum of Royal Fine Arts
Also known as the Museum of Royal Antiquities, and listed among the sights of the city. It sits within the Imperial City of Hue complex, which contains museums and galleries among its temples, pavilions and gates.
Fold it into your walk through the enclosure rather than treating it as a separate outing.
14. Ho Chi Minh Museum
At 6 Lê Lợi, this museum contains photos and information on Ho Chi Minh and the history of Hue in photographs. It is open Monday to Saturday and entry is free.
It is a compact stop, easy to pair with a morning in the city before heading to the river.
15. Phu Bai Airport
Worth a look if you are interested in the earlier conflicts, from the days when the airport was a dirt strip. During the Vietnam War an American garrison was assigned there and built up the airport with concrete bunkers, a paved airstrip and a few other luxuries, and it was vital in keeping Hue supplied during the Easter Offensive of 1972. The airport retains the original buildings built by the Americans, though they have been retrofitted for use by the Vietnamese.
This is a specialist stop rather than a general sight, so go only if the military history is what draws you.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Imperial City of Hue (Đại Nội) when it opens, entering through Ngọ Môn and climbing to the second floor for the view over the courtyard. Continue to Thái Hòa Palace, then the Forbidden Purple City directly behind it, and take in the Huế Museum of Royal Fine Arts and the grounds of Trường Sanh Residence while you are inside the walls. Allow several hours.
Afternoon: Head to the Perfume River and Thien Mu Pagoda, then take a boat toward the tombs. Aim to arrive after the tour groups have gone, since groups typically arrive around 10:00 and leave around 15:00. Concentrate on the Tomb of Tu Duc, the Tomb of Minh Mang and the Tomb of Khai Dinh, the three named as the finest.
Evening: Return to the city by boat before dinner, which is what the tour schedules are built around, and finish with the Ho Chi Minh Museum if you have time left in the day.
How should I get to the Tombs of the Emperors?
They are accessible by taxi or bike from the city, but the best way is to hire a river boat and go for a cruise, planning a full day. Boat hire or a motorbike and driver should cost somewhere around US$20, not including tomb admissions. Group tours usually cost about US$2 including lunch aboard the boat, but not admission or the motorbike from the wharf to each tomb. The tombs are also easily reached by bicycle, though there is a shortage of good maps, so ask your hotel about rentals and maps and be cautious on the crowded and potentially potholed roads.
When should I visit the tombs to avoid the crowds?
Tour groups arrive around 10:00 and leave around 15:00 in order to get back before dinner, so plan around those hours. Most tombs are open from 07:30 or 08:00 to 17:30, depending on the season.
How long do I need at the Imperial City of Hue?
Allow several hours to see it properly. It is open daily, and the complex is large enough that it stays peaceful despite its popularity.
Is Thien Mu Pagoda free to enter?
Yes, entry is free. It overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city, so it pairs naturally with a boat trip to the tombs.
Decide which tombs matter most to you, check the season's opening hours, and start arranging your boat or bicycle before you arrive.