Stand on the eastern side of Plaza Independencia and the Palacio Salvo rises above you, its Art Deco mass still dominating the skyline. Walk west through the Puerta de la Ciudadela and the city changes character: the old town's streets narrow, the buildings age, and the river air reaches you a few blocks further on.
Montevideo suits travellers who like their cities on foot, with markets, museums and theatres packed into a compact centre. This guide covers the sights worth your time, ordered roughly by how much they reward a visit, followed by a plan for a single day.
Top things to do in Montevideo
1. Plaza Independencia
The square at the end of 18 de Julio Ave., the city's main commercial artery, and the natural starting point for a day in the centre. It is lined with prominent landmarks and holds the statue of General José Artigas in its middle, with his mausoleum beneath it.
Time your visit for the last Saturday of September if you can: the museums and historical places of interest around the square open free to the public, and a large murga parade takes place in which all the Uruguayan political parties take part. The event is known as El Día del Patrimonio, the Day of Heritage.
2. Palacio Salvo
On the eastern side of Plaza Independencia, this 95-m Art Deco building was once South America's highest and still dominates Montevideo's skyline. In the past there was an observation deck that could be accessed for free; a 30-minute tour including the observation deck is now available for U$200-300.
Combine it with the rest of the square in one loop, since the Palacio Estévez, Torre Ejecutiva and Edificio Ciudadela all sit within the same block.
3. Mausoleo de Artigas
The large monument in the Plaza Independencia pays tribute to José Gervasio Artigas, one of the heroes of Uruguayan independence, and the mausoleum beneath it is open on weekends. Inside is an urn with his ashes, kept under watch by two honour guards.
Because it opens only at weekends, plan a weekend visit around it rather than treating it as a weekday stop.
4. Mercado del Puerto
A covered market full of restaurants and some shops selling handicrafts and souvenirs, worth seeing as a sight, an eating place and a place to shop. The main market is open every day during lunch hours.
The restaurants around the exterior offer indoor and outdoor seating and remain open for dinner, so you can use the building twice in one day if you want. The Aduana building, a massive landmark hosting the Uruguayan customs administration, stands next to it.
5. Museo del Tango de Montevideo
On the ground floor of the Palacio Salvo, on the main square. This is the historic place of tango music in Uruguay, where La Cumparsita was first played 100 years ago, in 1917. It conserves the original pieces of the time and a large collection of Uruguayan tango history, and working victrolas play tango all day long on original records.
Since it sits inside the Palacio Salvo, pair it with the building's tour rather than making a separate trip.
6. Teatro Solís
On Bartolomé Mitre, the main theatre of Montevideo and one of the old town's most iconic buildings. Consider going here if you want to see a theatre performance; it also hosts a museum of its own history.
It is a short walk from the Puerta de la Ciudadela, so it fits neatly into a wander down Sarandí and into the old town.
7. Catedral Metropolitana
The Catholic cathedral of Montevideo and the seat of the archdiocese, on Plaza Constitución/Plaza Matriz. It features beautiful artwork, among it the picture of Our Lady of the Thirty-Three, the patron saint of Uruguay.
Mass is held at least once a day and the schedule is posted outside the door, so you can check it if you want to attend one or look around without disturbing a ceremony.
8. Palacio Taranco
At 25 de Mayo 376, this was built as the residence of the Taranco Ortiz family and now houses the Museum of Decorative Art, with over 2000 exhibits from all periods. You can see works by European masters from the last five centuries and ancient archaeological artefacts such as Roman amphoras and furniture used by French kings. Entry is free.
It opens Monday to Friday, 12:30-17:30, so slot it into a weekday afternoon in the old town.
9. Museo Torres Garcia
At Sarandí 683, displaying works by one of the most prominent Uruguayan artists, the painter and sculptor Joaquín Torres García (1874-1949). It opens Monday to Friday, 09:30-19:30, and Saturday, 10:00-18:00.
Sarandí is Montevideo's main pedestrian street, reached by passing through the Puerta de la Ciudadela, which makes this an easy stop on a walk between the old town and the square.
10. Puerta de la Ciudadela
A gate to the old town and one of the few remaining parts of the old city wall. Pass through it and you are on Sarandí, Montevideo's main pedestrian street.
Use it as your entry point to Ciudad Vieja rather than a destination in itself, and let the walk down Sarandí carry you to the museums and the cathedral.
11. Museo del Carnaval
On Rambla 25 de Agosto 1825, a small museum with carnival costumes and paraphernalia. If you do not have the opportunity to visit Montevideo during the yearly carnival, you will at least get to see some costumes and drums here. Entry is U$80, and it opens Wednesday to Sunday, 11:00-17:00.
Its location near the rambla makes it a sensible pairing with a walk along the waterfront.
12. El Cabildo
At Juan Carlos Gomez 1362. During Spanish rule in the early 19th century and the first decades of independence, El Cabildo was the parliament building; later various governmental departments were housed there, and since 1959 it has been a museum, Museo Histórico Municipal, displaying the city government's archives. Entry is free.
It opens Monday to Friday, 12:00-17:45, and Saturday, 10:00-16:00, so it works as a weekday or Saturday stop in the old town.
13. Museo Andes 1972
At Rincón 619. In October 1972 a plane carrying Uruguayan rugby players to Santiago crashed in the Andes, and 16 of the passengers survived over two months in terrifying circumstances before they were found and rescued. This museum tells the story of the event, known as the 1972 Andes flight disaster. Entry is U$200.
It is a compact, single-subject museum, best combined with the other Rincón street sights such as the Casa de Fructuoso Rivera.
14. Palacio Municipal
At Av. 18 de Julio 1360, the massive brick building is not just a city hall but also hosts the museums of photography and art history (MuHAr). There is a viewing platform in the tower that is open to the public.
It sits along the same avenue as the obelisk and the Fuente de los Candados, so it fits into a walk up 18 de Julio from Plaza Independencia.
15. The obelisk of Montevideo
At the corner of Av. 18 de Julio and Bv. Artigas, a 40-m-high obelisk built in 1930 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Uruguayan constitution. The three statues next to it represent "law", "liberty" and "force".
It is at the far end of the 18 de Julio walk, so treat it as the turning point of that route rather than a separate outing.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Plaza Independencia, where you can see the statue of José Artigas and, if it is a weekend, go down into the Mausoleo de Artigas. Continue into the Palacio Salvo on the eastern side of the square for the Museo del Tango de Montevideo and the observation deck. Pass through the Puerta de la Ciudadela onto Sarandí and walk down to the Museo Torres Garcia.
Afternoon: Head to the Mercado del Puerto for lunch, when the main market is open, and look at the Aduana building next door. Walk to Plaza Constitución/Plaza Matriz for the Catedral Metropolitana, then spend the rest of the afternoon at the Palacio Taranco for the Museum of Decorative Art, which opens weekday afternoons.
Evening: Return to the Mercado del Puerto, where the restaurants around the exterior stay open for dinner, or check what is on at the Teatro Solís and take in a performance.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit the museums around Plaza Independencia?
On the last Saturday of September, when the museums and historical places of interest around the square open free to the public as part of El Día del Patrimonio, which also features a large murga parade.
Can I visit the Mausoleo de Artigas during the week?
No. The mausoleum under the monument in Plaza Independencia is open on weekends.
Where can I eat around lunchtime in the old town?
The Mercado del Puerto is a covered market full of restaurants, open every day during lunch hours, with additional restaurants around the exterior that stay open for dinner.
What can I do in Montevideo if I am not there during carnival?
The Museo del Carnaval on Rambla 25 de Agosto 1825 displays carnival costumes and drums, so you can at least see some of the costumes and instruments outside the carnival period.
Pick your dates, check which of these sights fall on your route, and start building the day around Plaza Independencia and the old town.