Stand on the dam across the Seret River and the Ternopil Pond opens out on both sides, with the city's rooftops and church towers arranged along the water. It is a compact western Ukrainian city where the main sights sit within a short walk of the centre, and where the surrounding region holds castles and monasteries worth a day trip.
This guide suits a traveller who wants a calm day or two of churches, a museum or two, and a walk along the water, rather than a packed schedule.
1. Ternopil Pond and the dam
The Seret River runs through the city, and the pond created along it is the natural centre of a walk.
Walk the embankment in the late afternoon, when the light is on the water, and combine it with the church and the castle remains, which are close by.
2. Castle remains
On Vulytsya Zamkova, the castle was founded in 1540 as a fortification cutting the route from Terebovlia to Busk. In the 1830s it was rectangular in shape, with one part protected by a deep ditch, a fortified rampart and an oak palisade.
Only the palace has survived, so treat this as a short stop rather than a full visit. It pairs naturally with the pond embankment and the Church of the Exaltation of the Cross.
3. Dominican Church (Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary)
On Vulytsya Sahaidachnoho Het'mana, this former Roman Catholic church is built in the late European Baroque style, with two graceful towers, and was built between 1749 and 1779. In 1992 the building was renovated and handed over to the community of Greek Catholics; the interiors are not preserved.
In the square opposite the church is a monument to Prince Daniil Galitsky, so you can see both in one stop.
4. Church of the Exaltation of the Cross
On Vulytsya Nad Stavom, this church is built in the Renaissance style. The first information about it is found in a document of Prince Ostrozky from 1570, and the front tower, once also a bell tower, was completed in 1627.
Its position by the pond makes it an easy addition to a walk along the water.
5. Old Windmill museum
On Vulytsya Brodivs'ka, this museum and eatery holds an ethnographic exhibit reflecting Ukrainian life and customs. The collection includes old photographs of Ternopil, gas lamps, clay and ceramic pots, candlesticks, abacuses, scales, spindles, paintings, bags and Ukrainian costumes on the walls.
The Old Mill has four floors, each decorated in its own style, so allow time to go through all of them.
6. Ternopil regional art museum
On Vulytsya Krushelnytskoi, this is the city's regional art museum and a straightforward indoor stop if the weather turns.
It sits on the same street as the Memorial museum of Krushelnytskoi Salomii, so the two can be combined in one outing.
7. Memorial museum of Krushelnytskoi Salomii
On Vulytsya Krushelnytskoi in Bila, this museum is dedicated to Salomiia Krushelnytska.
Both are in Bila, away from the centre, so plan them as one trip rather than two separate ones.
8. Church of Sv. Mykolaia
In Bila on Vulytsya Plotytska, this Greek Catholic temple dates to 1815 and, despite its age, looks well-groomed and neat.
It fits into the same Bila outing as the Krushelnytska museum and the cemetery grave.
9. Church of Zarvanytskoi Divine Mother
In the Old park, this is described as the first wooden church from the time when a wooden church still existed in Ternopil, in the years 1600–1601. Carpathian fir was used in its construction, and the work was completed by masters from the Hutsul village of Mykulychyn, including Stephen Ivankov.
Because it is a wooden church, visit in dry weather and take your time over the construction details.
10. Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help
On Prospekt Bandery Stepana, this church was built in 2000. Ukraine has only one copy of the miraculous icon of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, which was attached to the original.
11. Cathedral of St. Martyrs of Faith, Hope, Love and Their mother Sofiya
On Konovaltsia YE. blvd., this church stands on the site of a former Polish brickyard. When the foundation was laid, builders repeatedly found fragments of ancient bricks and even came across underground channels for the exhaust.
It is a short stop, best combined with the other churches along the same stretch.
12. Temple of God's mercy and Incessant Help of God's Mother
On Prospekt Bandery Stepana at the corner of Konovalets street and Ave. Bandera, this is a Roman Catholic church. Its height was planned at 42 m to the base of the cross, but construction made adjustments and the church ended up higher by about 2 m.
Pair it with the nearby churches on Prospekt Bandery Stepana.
13. Monument to T.H.Shevchenko
In the square near the drama theatre, this monument is a bronze figure of Taras Shevchenko seated on a two-stage granite pedestal, inaugurated in 1982.
It is a quick look while you are in the centre, and easy to combine with the square around the theatre.
14. Monument to the Hero-sailor
On Vulytsya Biletska, in the external court of hotel Chaika, this monument stood for a long time on the embankment of the pond near the church Nadstavnoyi. It was set up in the 1960s and represented the defence of the city and Ternopil lake, and was also a symbol of the city "port" that was pulled down in the 1970s. Since 1990 it has been named the "Seagull."
It is a small stop, best folded into a walk along the pond.
15. Further afield: Zbarazh castle and Bernardines monastery
North-west of the city, the Bernardines monastery of Zbarazh was built between 1627 and 1637, and Zbarazh castle between 1626 and 1631.
This is a day trip rather than a city stop, so set aside the time and go by train or bus.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Dominican Church on Vulytsya Sahaidachnoho Het'mana, then cross the square to the Monument to Danylo Halytskyy. Walk on to the Monument to T.H.Shevchenko in the square near the drama theatre, then head for the Castle remains on Vulytsya Zamkova.
Afternoon. Continue to the Church of the Exaltation of the Cross on Vulytsya Nad Stavom and walk the Ternopil Pond embankment past the Monument to the Hero-sailor. Then take in the Old Windmill museum on Vulytsya Brodivs'ka, giving yourself time for all four floors.
Evening. Finish at the Ternopil regional art museum on Vulytsya Krushelnytskoi, and if time allows step into the Memorial museum of Krushelnytskoi Salomii on the same street.
What kind of climate should I expect in Ternopil?
Ternopil has a moderate continental climate with cold winters and warm summers, so plan your clothing around the season you are travelling in.
Which sights are close enough to combine on foot?
The Dominican Church, the monument to Prince Daniil Galitsky opposite it, the Monument to T.H.Shevchenko near the drama theatre, the Castle remains and the Church of the Exaltation of the Cross all sit in and around the centre and the pond embankment, so they work as one walk.
Which places are outside the city centre?
The Memorial museum of Krushelnytskoi Salomii, the Grave of Amvrosiia Krushelnytskogo and the Church of Sv. Mykolaia are all in Bila, and the further afield sights such as Zbarazh castle and the Bernardines monastery of Zbarazh require a train or bus.
Is there a wooden church to see in the city?
Yes. The Church of Zarvanytskoi Divine Mother in the Old park is described as the first wooden church from the time when a wooden church still existed in Ternopil, built in the years 1600–1601 using Carpathian fir.
Pick the churches and the pond walk that fit your day, check the further afield sights against your travel time, and start planning your route through Ternopil.