Stand on Velyka Perspektyvna and the city centre unfolds in front of you: the Sacred Virgin Cathedral at one end, the low sweep of the State Dramatic and Musical Theatre near the park, and the ordinary bustle of a regional capital going about its day. Kropyvnytskyi is not a city that arranges itself for visitors. It is a working place in central Ukraine, and its rewards are for the traveller who is willing to walk, look and ask.
This guide suits anyone passing through central Ukraine with a day or two to spare, and anyone with a specific interest in Ukrainian theatre, in the layered history of the former Yelysavethrad, or in the earthworks of an 18th-century frontier fortress.
1. Fortechni Valy (Fortress of St. Elizabeth)
The earthen ramparts of the Fortress of St. Elizabeth are considered the oldest preserved earthen fortress in Europe. The fortress was named in honour of the Empress Elizabeth and had the shape of a regular hexagon, with a perimeter, including the external fortifications, of 6 km. It was the administrative centre of the Novoserbskogo settlement, covering New Serbia and the Novoslobodskaya Cossack regiment.
Come for the scale of the earthworks rather than for standing buildings. Because the site is open ground, the light at the start or end of the day shows the shape of the ramparts best; wear shoes you do not mind getting dusty.
2. State Dramatic and Musical Theatre
The first Ukrainian professional theatre was renovated at the end of 2012, and it looks just like it did when it was first built. It stands on Dvortsova Street, with a park, a memorial and a hospital nearby.
Pair it with a walk through Kovalivs'kyi park, which is close by, and check what is playing before you go rather than turning up on the night.
3. Sacred Virgin (Rizdva Presviatoi Bohorodytsi) Cathedral
Founded in 1757 and built in the neoclassical style, this cathedral on Velyka Perspektyvna holds icons of the 17th century.
It sits on the main central street, so the sensible approach is to fold it into a walk along Velyka Perspektyvna rather than treating it as a separate trip.
4. Transfiguration (Spaso-Preobrazhenskyi) cathedral
Built in 1813 as a wooden church and consecrated the same year, this one-storey building has an elegant portico with four Corinthian columns. Inside are relics of saints and the main shrine of Kropyvnytskyi residents, the icon of the Mother of God "Elisavetgrad", the patroness and protector of the city.
It is on Tarkovskoho Street, away from the main central axis, so plan it as its own stop. Remember that this is an active place of worship and dress accordingly.
5. Svyato-Pokrovska church
Built on the site of a wooden church in 1849 in Russian-Byzantine style by the architect Konstantin Ton, this church on Frunze Street preserves remains of a mural from the second half of the 19th century in its interior.
The interior painting is the reason to come, so give yourself time inside rather than photographing the facade and leaving.
6. Kirovohrad Museum of Regional Studies
On Arhitektora Pauchenka Street, this museum holds more than 80,000 items reflecting the history of the region from ancient times to the present.
It is the natural first stop if you want the wider context of the region before walking the rest of the centre; the collection is large, so decide what you want from it in advance.
7. Memorial museum of M.L. Kropyvnytskyi
Housed in the living house of Marko Lukic Kropyvnytskyi on Kropivnitskogo Street, the exposition covers his family, his childhood and education, and his path into the arts as the founder of the first professional Ukrainian theatre. The museum carefully preserves documents, photographs, memorabilia and theatre posters relating to his life and work as actor, director, playwright, composer, singer and educator.
Visit this before or after the State Dramatic and Musical Theatre to connect the building with the person; the two belong together.
8. Jews of Elizavetgrad Historical Museum
On Viktora Chmilenka Street, the museum uses thematic stands to reveal various aspects of the life of Jewish communities: charity, religious life, medicine, Jewish education, cultural life and industry.
The museum is small and themed rather than chronological, so read the stands in order and allow time to take them in.
9. Osmerkin Art-Memorial Museum
Established in 1985 and located on Architekta Pauchenka Street, this is the art memorial museum named for O.O. Osmerkin.
It sits on the same street as the Museum of Regional Studies, so the two can be combined in a single outing.
10. Neugauza Memorial Museum
On Dzerzhyns'koho Street, this people's museum is devoted to Henry Gustavovich Neuhaus, pianist, educator, writer and musical activist.
It is a specialist stop best suited to travellers with an interest in music; pair it with the State Philharmonic Hall if you are building a musical day.
11. Church of the Holy Spirit Roman Catholic Church
On Dvortsova Street, this Roman Catholic church stands close to the theatre and the central park area.
Because it is on the same street as the State Dramatic and Musical Theatre, it fits neatly into a walk through the centre rather than a separate journey.
12. Dendropark
On Yevhena Telnova Street, the Dendropark has carousels and attractions and a little zoo with farm animals.
This is the obvious choice if you are travelling with children, and it works as a break between the central sights and the rest of your day.
13. Kovalivs'kyi park
Kovalivs'kyi park sits near the theatre, making it an easy green pause in the middle of a walking route through the centre.
Use it as the link between the theatre and the cathedral rather than as a destination in itself.
14. Park Peremohy (Park Pobedy)
Park Peremohy is one of the city's parks and offers a straightforward place to walk and sit.
It is best treated as an unhurried hour rather than a scheduled sight; go when you want a break from buildings and museums.
15. State Philharmonic Hall
The State Philharmonic Hall is the place to go if you are interested in classical and modern music.
Programmes change, so check what is on during your dates before you build an evening around it.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at Fortechni Valy (Fortress of St. Elizabeth), where the earthen ramparts are best seen in clear morning light. From there, make your way to the Kirovohrad Museum of Regional Studies on Arhitektora Pauchenka Street for the context of the region, then step into the Osmerkin Art-Memorial Museum on the same street.
Afternoon. Walk the centre along Velyka Perspektyvna and visit the Sacred Virgin (Rizdva Presviatoi Bohorodytsi) Cathedral. Continue to the Memorial museum of M.L. Kropyvnytskyi on Kropivnitskogo Street, then to the State Dramatic and Musical Theatre on Dvortsova Street, with a pause in Kovalivs'kyi park nearby and a look at the Church of the Holy Spirit Roman Catholic Church on the same street.
Evening. Finish with a performance or concert at the State Philharmonic Hall, or return to the theatre district for the evening. If you have energy left, the Dendropark on Yevhena Telnova Street is the place to unwind, particularly if you are travelling with children.
What is the Fortress of St. Elizabeth and why visit it?
It is considered the oldest preserved earthen fortress in Europe, named in honour of the Empress Elizabeth and laid out in the shape of a regular hexagon with a perimeter, including external fortifications, of 6 km. It was the administrative centre of the Novoserbskogo settlement, covering New Serbia and the Novoslobodskaya Cossack regiment.
Which museums in Kropyvnytskyi are worth prioritising?
The Kirovohrad Museum of Regional Studies holds more than 80,000 items covering the region from ancient times to the present. If theatre is your interest, the Memorial museum of M.L. Kropyvnytskyi preserves documents, photographs, memorabilia and posters relating to the founder of the first professional Ukrainian theatre. The Jews of Elizavetgrad Historical Museum and the Osmerkin Art-Memorial Museum cover more specialised ground.
Where can I hear classical or modern music?
The State Philharmonic Hall is the venue for classical and modern music. Check the programme for your dates before planning an evening around it.
Is Kropyvnytskyi suitable for a family visit?
The Dendropark on Yevhena Telnova Street has carousels and attractions and a little zoo with farm animals, and Kovalivs'kyi park near the theatre gives you an easy green stop in the centre.
Decide which of these you want most, check the theatre and philharmonic programmes for your dates, and start planning your route through the centre.