The morning air in Sivas carries a crisp edge as you walk toward the center of town, where the silhouettes of ancient stone structures rise against the horizon. This is a city defined by its architecture and its role as a historic crossroads, where Silk Road history meets the foundational moments of modern Turkey.
Architectural Rivalries and Seljuk Grandeur
Sivas is renowned for its collection of madrasas—Islamic schools built in the late 13th century. These structures were commissioned by rival patrons who competed to create the most impressive designs, resulting in a rich variety of architectural styles within the city center.
- Buruciye Medrese: Completed in 1271, this school was a center for studying physics, chemistry, and astronomy. Its courtyard is surrounded by windowless cells where students once lived.
- Çifte Minareli Madrasa: Built in 1272, the "Twin Minaret" madrasa is defined by its monumental gatehouse and twin minarets.
- Gök Medrese: Known as the "Blue" or "Celestial" madrasa due to its intricate tilework, this site features an imposing gatehouse with twin minarets leading into a courtyard.
- Şifaiye Medrese: Completed in 1217, this earlier structure served as both a hospital and a medical school. It houses the tomb of Sultan Izeddin Keykavus I and features restored tilework.
History and Cultural Preservation
To understand the layers of Sivas, you can explore sites that preserve its transition from an imperial center to a modern capital.
- Sivas Atatürk ve Kongre Müzesi: Located in a former high school, this museum preserves the history of the 1919 Sivas Congress. It houses three collections: ethnography, archaeology, and artifacts from the era when Mustafa Kemal Atatürk consolidated his power base to launch the struggle for independence.
- Sivas City Museum: Housed in a former governor's residence, this museum showcases traditional town life.
- Archaeological Museum: Located in a 1914 School of Industry building, this site displays fossils and artifacts from the Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman periods.
- Industry School Museum: Situated behind the Archaeological Museum in a former open prison, this space features an exhibition of various handicrafts.
Tradition and Local Experience
Beyond the museums, you can engage with the physical comforts and local traditions that have defined life in Sivas for centuries.
- Kurşunlu Hammam: Visit this 16th-century building to experience a traditional bath.
- Sivas Grand Mosque (Sivas Ulu Camii): A significant landmark of the city, originally built in 1197 with its minaret added in 1213.
- Kale Mosque: Located near the Buruciye medressah, this simple and elegant building dates back to 1580.
From the historic tilework of the Gök Medrese to the artifacts of the Sivas Atatürk ve Kongre Müzesi, the city offers a deep look into Turkey's past. Start by exploring the madrasas near Meydan to see the architectural competition of the 13th century firsthand.