Stand on the deck of the Replica of SS Bandırma and you are looking at the same Black Sea water that carried Mustafa Kemal Pasha into Samsun in 1919, when he arrived to supervise the disbanding of Ottoman troops and instead began the Turkish War of Independence. The city that grew around that landing is a working Black Sea port with a long seafront, a cluster of small museums, and hills on either side of the centre that give you the whole place at once.
Samsun suits travellers who are interested in the founding of the Turkish Republic, who like a city they can walk and ride a tram through in a day, and who are happy with modest museums rather than polished ones. It also suits anyone who wants a sandy beach and a cable car within the same afternoon.
This guide covers the sights and experiences in and around the city, with the practical details you need to string them together.
Top things to do in Samsun
1. Replica of SS Bandırma
This full-scale replica of the small freighter-cum-ferry that carried Mustafa Kemal Pasha to Samsun in 1919 opened in 2006 as a museum of those days. The original was launched in Paisley in 1878, took its best-known name in 1910, retired in 1924 and was scrapped. There is not much English on the displays, so have a translation app ready.
It sits in Belediye Evleri, and East Park with its skatepark is right next to it, so you can combine the two. It opens Monday 12:00-17:00 and Tuesday to Sunday 08:00-17:00.
2. Amisos Hill
A small hill and park with sea views and Hellenistic tombs, including tumuli with tombs dated between 300 BC and 30 BC. The simplest ascent is from the west off Hendek Cd, or you can take the cable car from Baruthane on the north side; a return trip costs less than €1.
Be aware that the city centre is on the other side of the hill and trees block the view of that side, so you get a better glimpse of the city from the cable car itself. The Amazon Museum is in Baruthane near the foot of the cable car if you want to pair the two.
3. Toptepe Tumulus
At 140m with no obstructions, this hill gives you a far better view over the city than the developed Amisos Hill, and the source rates it as probably the best natural view you will get over a city anywhere in Turkey. Abandoned concrete structures on top suggest the city once had the same idea.
Take the tram to Mavi Işıklar and walk up the nearest hill. Go on a clear day, since the whole point is the view.
4. Göğceli Mosque
Looking like an Alpine chalet, this remarkable wooden mosque was built in 1206 AD and is intricately fitted with not a single nail. It stands in Göğceli cemetery on Terme Cd in Çarşamba, about 30 km east of the city, and is open 24 hours.
Because it is well outside the centre, treat it as a half-day trip rather than a stop you tack onto a city walk.
5. Atakum Beach
The best beach in the area: long and sandy, though narrow and lacking shade. There are no tides, but beware long-shore currents.
Bring your own shade. Samsun Paintball is in Çobanözü, 2 km inland from the beach, if you want to add something to the same trip.
6. Çakırlar Grove
A small nature reserve on Sinop Yol with boardwalks over wetland forested with ash and elm, plus a picnic and sports area, a restaurant and toilets. It is free and open daily 08:00-23:00.
The boardwalks make it an easy wander rather than a hike, and the restaurant means you do not need to carry a full picnic.
7. City Museum (Samsun Kent Müzesi)
This building was a hotel when Atatürk stayed, and later served as accommodation for railway construction workers before becoming a museum of city history in 2011. It is at Atatürk Blv 22.
It opens Monday 12:00-17:00 and Tuesday to Sunday 08:30-17:00. Pair it with the other central museums, which are close enough to visit in the same morning.
8. Veterans Museum (Gazi Müzesi)
On Gazi Cd 62, this documents Atatürk's activities in Samsun with old photos, maps and personal items. Entry is free, and it opens Tuesday to Sunday 08:30-16:30.
It is a compact stop, so combine it with the City Museum and the National Struggle Museum rather than making it a trip of its own.
9. National Struggle Museum (Kuva-i Milliye Müzesi)
A museum of the independence struggle on Çifte Hamam Cd 57, open Monday to Friday 08:00-17:00. The source describes it frankly as shambolic, with displays that do not work.
Go if the subject interests you and you have time to spare, and set your expectations accordingly.
10. Central Great Mosque (Büyük Camii)
On Necip Bey Cd, this mosque was built in 1884 after the great fire destroyed its medieval predecessors.
The hamams are just north of the Grand Mosque on Necip Bey Cd, so you can pair a visit with a traditional Turkish bath.
11. Kurşunlu Mosque
A stubby stone building of 1494 AD, dwarfed amidst high rise along 100 Yıl Blv. Its name means "leaded", for the roof.
There is a second hamam about 200 m west on 100 Yıl Blv near the mosque, which makes this an easy stop on a bath day.
12. Statue of Honour
The centrepiece of Atatürk Park, rearing up on its hind legs, erected in 1932.
Batıpark, the adjacent seafront park with a karting track, is right there, so you can walk from the statue straight into the park.
13. Samsun sea front
The sea front stretches for several km northwest from downtown with a firm surface for cycling or skating.
This is the easiest way to cover ground between the centre and the beaches. Fener Beach, just north of the Sheraton Grand, is for women and small children only.
14. Surgical Instruments Museum (Cerrahi Aletler ve Sağlık Müzesi)
An odd museum in a former railway station at Fuar Alanı Kümesi 47, including a macabre collection of foetuses. It is free and opens Tuesday to Sunday 09:00-17:00.
Mert Beach by the museum is closed for re-development along with the Aquapark, so do not plan on combining the two.
15. Toy Museum (Canik Oyuncak Müzesi)
Old toys of all kinds, mostly dolls, at Girne Sk 52 in Canik. It is free and opens Tuesday to Sunday 10:00-16:30.
The short opening hours make this a morning or early afternoon stop rather than a late one.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Replica of SS Bandırma when it opens, and walk next door into East Park. From there, head to the City Museum (Samsun Kent Müzesi), then the Veterans Museum (Gazi Müzesi) and the National Struggle Museum (Kuva-i Milliye Müzesi) if time allows.
Afternoon: Take the cable car from Baruthane up to Amisos Hill for the sea views and the Hellenistic tombs, then continue to Toptepe Tumulus by tram to Mavi Işıklar for the wider view over the city. If the weather is warm and you would rather swim, swap the hills for Atakum Beach.
Evening: Walk the Samsun sea front as it stretches northwest from downtown, then finish at the Statue of Honour in Atatürk Park and the adjacent Batıpark.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of day to visit Amisos Hill?
Go when you want the clearest view, and remember that the cable car from Baruthane gives you a better glimpse of the city than the hilltop itself, where trees block the centre side.
Are the museums in Samsun free?
Some are. The Veterans Museum, the Surgical Instruments Museum and the Toy Museum are free, while the Replica of SS Bandırma charges an adult ticket.
Can I visit Göğceli Mosque without a car?
It is about 30 km east of the city in Çarşamba, so plan it as a separate trip rather than part of a walking route through the centre.
Is it worth bringing a translation app to the museums?
Yes. The Replica of SS Bandırma in particular has not much English on its displays.
Decide which of these fits your day, check the opening times that matter to you, and start planning your trip to Samsun.