Stand on Kale Cd at the foot of the crag and the black rock rises straight above you, with the citadel walls along its top and the town spread out below. This is the sight that gives Afyonkarahisar its name, and the climb to it is the first thing most visitors do.
The city suits travellers passing through western Turkey who want a day of mosques, a fortress and a long view, and those who come for the thermal springs and spa hotels that have grown up around the region's geothermal activity. It also rewards anyone interested in the Turkish War of Independence, since the city was recovered on 27 August 1922 during the counter-attack in the Aegean region.
This guide covers the sights within the city and the nearby springs, with practical notes on how to fit them into a day.
Top things to do in Afyonkarahisar
1. Afyonkarahisar Castle
The fortress perches atop the crag above the town, built by the Hittites in 1350 BC and rebuilt several times since. You reach it by a 226 m climb up some 800 steps, starting from the southwest on Kale Cd above Ulu Camii; a project to build a cable-car has stalled. The site is open 24 hours and free.
Inside you will find extensive citadel walls, cisterns and wide views, but not much else except trash. Combine the climb with a visit to Ulu Camii at the bottom, since the ascent begins just above it.
2. Ulu Camii (Great Mosque)
This mosque near the start of the castle ascent was completed in 1277. Its roof is supported by an array of 8 by 5 wooden pillars that were originally richly carved, and it is one of five world heritage listed wooden mosques in Anatolia.
Visit it on your way up to the castle rather than as a separate trip, and take a moment over the carved pillars before you start the steps.
3. Sultan Dîvânî Mevlevîhâne Museum
On Zaviye Türbe Cd, this was a lodge for the Mevlevi, the Sufi "whirling dervishes", and is now a museum. It is open daily from 09:30 to 18:00 and entry is free.
It makes a calm counterpoint to the climb and the mosques, and fits easily into the middle of a day in the centre.
4. Gedik Ahmet Pasha Imaret Mosque
On Kurtuluş Cd, this mosque is the centrepiece of a kulliye, a religious complex with a medrese (seminary), imaret (hospice) and hamam. It was built in 1472 and restored in 1795.
Allow time for the surrounding complex rather than just the mosque itself, since the medrese, imaret and hamam are part of the same group of buildings.
5. Altıgöz Bridge
Built in 1209, this bridge is still used by light vehicles. Altıgöz means six eyes or arches.
The setting is scrappy and not scenic, so treat it as a quick stop rather than a destination in its own right.
6. Sülüm Mosque
On Birlik Cd north of the castle, this mosque was built in 1813. It is a short, straightforward stop if you are already walking in that part of town.
Pair it with the castle area, since it sits north of the crag and can be folded into the same walk.
7. Tarihi Değirmen
Tarihi Değirmen means "old windmill", a wooden tower. You mostly come for the view, as it is not as tough a climb as the castle.
Choose it when you want an outlook without committing to the 800 steps, and go while the light is still good.
8. Gazlıgöl
Gazlıgöl is a geothermal area 25 km north of town on D665, with lots more spa hotels here. The region's springs have high mineral content, with temperatures ranging between 40 and 100 °C.
This is where to base yourself if the thermal waters are the point of your trip, rather than staying in the city centre.
9. Victory Museum (Zafer Müzesi)
On Ordu Blv, this museum is dedicated to the Turkish War of Independence. It is closed long-term for rebuilding, so check before you plan around it.
If it is still closed, the story of the city's recovery on 27 August 1922 is one you will meet elsewhere in the centre rather than behind these doors.
10. Afyonspor at Afyon Kocatepe Stadyumu
Afyonspor play soccer in 2. Lig, Turkey's third tier. Their home ground, also known as Zafer Stadyumu, is 5 km northwest of the town centre.
Check the fixture list if you want an evening of football, and arrange your transport to the stadium in advance given the distance from the centre.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Ulu Camii (Great Mosque) and look at the carved wooden pillars, then begin the climb to Afyonkarahisar Castle from Kale Cd just above it. Take your time over the 800 steps and spend a while on the walls and at the cisterns for the views over the town.
Afternoon: Come down and walk to Gedik Ahmet Pasha Imaret Mosque on Kurtuluş Cd to see the mosque and its kulliye of medrese, imaret and hamam. Follow that with the Sultan Dîvânî Mevlevîhâne Museum on Zaviye Türbe Cd, open daily 09:30-18:00 and free.
Evening: If you still have energy, head north on Birlik Cd to Sülüm Mosque, or make the gentler climb to Tarihi Değirmen for the view. If the thermal waters appeal more, drive out to Gazlıgöl and end the day in one of the spa hotels there.
Frequently asked questions
How hard is the climb to Afyonkarahisar Castle?
It is a 226 m climb up some 800 steps, starting from the southwest on Kale Cd above Ulu Camii. The site is open 24 hours and free, so you can choose your own pace and time of day.
Is the Victory Museum open?
No. The Victory Museum (Zafer Müzesi) on Ordu Blv is closed long-term for rebuilding.
Where can I find the thermal springs and spa hotels?
Gazlıgöl is a geothermal area 25 km north of town on D665, and it has lots more spa hotels. The springs in the region have high mineral content, with temperatures ranging between 40 and 100 °C.
What can I see near the castle without making the full climb?
Ulu Camii sits near the start of the ascent, and Tarihi Değirmen, the old windmill, gives you a view for a less tough climb than the castle.
Decide whether your day belongs to the rock or to the springs, then build the rest of your plan around the mosques and the walk between them.