Stand on the corniche at the point where the old city meets the water and you can see Arwad, the only inhabited island on the Syrian coast, sitting a few kilometres offshore. Behind you the Syrian Coastal Mountain Range rises to the east, and the limestone hills keep the city milder and wetter than inland Syria. In summer, Tartus fills with Syrians who come to the coast for their holidays.
Tartus suits travellers who are interested in Crusader architecture, Phoenician and Roman remains, and a working Mediterranean port city rather than a resort. The sights are close together and the island is a short boat ride away, so a visit can be as short as a day or stretched over two.
This guide covers the places worth your time in the city and on Arwad, followed by a one-day plan and answers to common questions.
Top things to do in Tartus
1. Cathedral of Our Lady of Tortosa
This former Catholic cathedral was erected during the 12th century and has been described by historians as the best-preserved religious structure of the Crusades. It is the single strongest reason to spend time in the old city, and the building rewards a slow walk around rather than a quick photograph.
Pair it with Tartus Castle, which is nearby, so you can see the two main Crusader-era monuments in one stretch of walking.
2. Tartus Castle
The old castle is reduced to partial remains, and the castle grounds are now occupied by other buildings. The keep, however, is open to visitors and holds a small museum and cultural exhibitions.
Go for the keep and the museum rather than for a complete fortress, and combine the visit with the Cathedral of Our Lady of Tortosa.
3. Arwad Island
Arwad is the only inhabited island in Syria and has been settled since at least the 2nd millennium BC. Reaching it is part of the experience: the Wikivoyage guide lists going by boat to Arwad Island as the thing to do in Tartus.
Take the boat across and give yourself time on the island rather than treating it as a quick crossing. The island sits a few kilometres off the shore of Tartus.
4. Citadel of Arwad
The citadel is the principal sight on Arwad itself. Because it is on the island, it belongs to the same trip as the boat crossing, and it makes the journey worthwhile rather than a simple outing on the water.
Build your time on Arwad around the citadel, and check the crossing back before you settle in.
5. Temple of Amrit
The Temple of Amrit lies at the nearby site of Amrit, south of Tartus. Amrit was one of the larger settlements of the area alongside Aradus, and the temple is the named sight there.
Treat Amrit as a separate outing from the city centre and from Arwad, and allow for the travel rather than slotting it between two old-city stops.
6. Amrit Museum
The Amrit Museum is listed alongside the Temple of Amrit, so the two are naturally visited together. It gives context to the site you have just walked through.
See the museum in the same visit as the Temple of Amrit; there is no reason to make the journey twice.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start in the old city with the Cathedral of Our Lady of Tortosa, the best-preserved Crusader religious structure in the region, then walk to Tartus Castle and go up into the keep for the small museum and cultural exhibitions.
Afternoon: Take the boat to Arwad Island and spend the afternoon there, with the Citadel of Arwad as your main stop.
Evening: Return to Tartus and walk the corniche as the light goes, with Arwad visible offshore and the coastal mountains behind the city.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get to Arwad?
By boat. The Wikivoyage guide lists going by boat to Arwad Island as the activity in Tartus, and the island lies a few kilometres off the shore.
What is left of Tartus Castle?
Only parts of the old castle remain, and the castle grounds are occupied by other buildings. The keep is open to visitors and contains a small museum and cultural exhibitions.
Why is the Cathedral of Our Lady of Tortosa worth a visit?
It was erected during the 12th century and has been described by historians as the best-preserved religious structure of the Crusades.
When is the best time to come to Tartus?
Tartus has a Mediterranean climate with mild, wet winters and hot, humid summers, and short transition periods in April and October. In summer it is a vacation spot for many Syrians, so expect the coast to be busy then.
Decide how many days you want for the city and the island, then start planning your trip to Tartus around the boat crossing to Arwad.