Stand on Tarafa bin al-Abd Street and the stone walls of the Church of Saint Elian rise beside you, a Greek Orthodox church consecrated in AD 432 and still part of the city's daily life. A short walk away, the minaret of the Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque carries the lines of Ottoman-Turkish architecture over streets that have been rebuilt and repopulated since the devastation of the Siege of Homs.
Homs suits travellers who are drawn to layers of history rather than polished circuits: Roman town planning, a medieval castle tell, churches and mosques that predate most of what stands around them. It also works as a base for the mountains and the castle country to the west.
This guide covers the sights within the city and the excursions the sources describe, with practical notes on how to string them together.
Top things to do in Homs
1. Citadel of Homs
Built on an ancient tell, the Citadel of Homs has had a castle standing on it since Roman times and is mostly associated with the medieval knight Usama ibn Munqidh, which is why it is often called Osama castle. The ancient structures were levelled during the 1830s, so what remains today is ruins.
Come for the sense of the site's depth rather than for standing buildings, and pair it with the old city sights nearby in the same outing.
2. Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque
This mosque is noted for its Ottoman-Turkish architectural style and is dedicated to Khalid ibn al-Walid, the Arab military commander who led the Muslim conquest of Syria in the 7th century CE following the Battle of Yarmouk, which ended Byzantine rule in Syria.
It is one of the city's principal monuments, so give it unhurried time and combine it with the other religious buildings in the centre rather than treating it as a quick stop.
3. Church of Saint Elian
A Greek Orthodox church consecrated in AD 432, the Church of Saint Elian stands on Tarafa bin al-Abd Street. Its age makes it one of the clearest surviving links to the city's Christian past.
Note the street name when asking directions, and visit it as part of a walk that takes in the other churches of the city.
4. Saint Mary Church of the Holy Belt
Also known as Um Al Zennar, this Syriac Orthodox church was first consecrated in 59 AD, while the current structure dates back to the 9th century AD.
The gap between the original consecration and the standing building is the interesting part; read the two dates together before you go in.
5. Forty Martyrs Cathedral
The Forty Martyrs Cathedral is the largest Greek Orthodox cathedral in the city.
It fits naturally into the same walk as the Church of Saint Elian and Saint Mary Church of the Holy Belt, since all three are churches in the city.
6. Great Mosque of al-Nuri
The Great Mosque of al-Nuri is one of the historic mosques of Homs and belongs with the Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque on any survey of the city's religious architecture.
Combine the two mosques in one stretch of your day so you are not crossing the city twice.
7. Mashta el Helou
Mashta el Helou lies in the mountains about 45 km from the city centre. The draw is the cool weather and the views, and you can camp there if you have a tent.
A camping permit might be needed, so sort that out before you set off rather than on arrival.
8. Marmarita
Marmarita is another of the mountain destinations roughly 45 km from the city centre, reached on the same axis as Mashta el Helou.
It shares the same appeal of cooler air and open views, and the same camping option with a possible permit.
9. Jwykhat
Jwykhat sits in the same mountain group, about 45 km from the centre, and offers the same combination of cool weather and views.
If you are camping, treat the mountain villages as one trip rather than separate day tours.
10. Krak des Chevaliers
Krak des Chevaliers is the castle close to Homs and is a World Heritage Site. It is grouped in the sources with the mountain destinations about 45 km from the city centre.
It is the strongest single excursion from the city, so give it the best part of a day and combine it with the mountain villages if you have your own transport and a tent.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Citadel of Homs, then walk to the Great Mosque of al-Nuri and the Khalid ibn al-Walid Mosque while the city is still quiet.
Afternoon. Move on to the churches: the Church of Saint Elian on Tarafa bin al-Abd Street, then the Forty Martyrs Cathedral and Saint Mary Church of the Holy Belt.
Evening. If you have a vehicle and the season suits, use the late afternoon for the mountains, choosing between Mashta el Helou, Marmarita and Jwykhat, or head for Krak des Chevaliers. Otherwise, return to the old city and revisit whichever of the mosques or churches you wanted more time in.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Citadel of Homs and why is it called Osama castle?
It is a castle site on an ancient tell, with a castle standing there since Roman times. It is mostly associated with the medieval knight Usama ibn Munqidh, which is where the alternative name comes from. The ancient structures were levelled in the 1830s, so only ruins remain.
Which churches in Homs can I visit?
The Church of Saint Elian, a Greek Orthodox church consecrated in AD 432 on Tarafa bin al-Abd Street; the Forty Martyrs Cathedral, the largest Greek Orthodox cathedral in the city; and Saint Mary Church of the Holy Belt, also known as Um Al Zennar, a Syriac Orthodox church first consecrated in 59 AD with the current structure dating to the 9th century AD.
What can I do outside the city?
Go to the mountains about 45 km from the city centre: Mashta el Helou, Marmarita, Jwykhat and Krak des Chevaliers. There you can enjoy the cool weather and the views, or camp if you have a tent. A camping permit might be needed.
How do I plan a single day in Homs?
Give the morning to the Citadel of Homs and the two mosques, the afternoon to the three churches, and the evening either to the mountains or the castle, or back to the old city for anything you want to see again.
Decide which of the city's mosques and churches you want most time in, check whether your mountain camping needs a permit, and start laying out your days from there.