Stand at the western edge of the African mainland at Les Almadies and the ocean in front of you runs unbroken to the Americas. Turn around and the corniche curves back toward a city of mosques, colonial facades, fishing pirogues and a music scene that keeps going long after dark.
Dakar suits travellers who are happy to move between monuments and beaches in the same afternoon, who don't mind a ferry crossing or a canoe ride to reach an island, and who would rather eat grilled fish by the water than chase a checklist. French and Wolof will carry you further than English in most places.
This guide covers the sights and experiences named in the source material, ordered with the strongest first, followed by a one-day plan and answers to the questions visitors ask most.
Top things to do in Dakar
1. Ile de Gorée
Gorée is a small island reached by ferry from the terminal north of Place de l'Independence, a crossing of ten to twenty minutes. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and holds colonial architecture, much of it in ruins, including the landmark House of Slaves museum. The island was a minor location used for the transport of slaves headed to the Americas, though its prominence is often overplayed.
You can stroll the whole island in about an hour. Combine the visit with a lazy afternoon: buy a cheap beer, lounge on the beach, or walk further and buy artwork from locals. There are many small restaurants and a handful of places offering lodging if you want to stay past the last ferry.
2. African Renaissance Monument
This colossal copper monument opened in 2010, dedicated to Africa's emergence from the oppressive European regimes that once ruled the continent and to the end of slavery. It is also meant as a display of African pride to counter foreign perceptions of Africans as inferior people. It is controversial: some feel the sense of pride it is meant to evoke, while others criticise it as a foreign, completely un-African Stalinist statue.
It is free to visit on the outside, but the view from the top and the exhibition are worth the admission. The monument is accessible at any hour.
3. IFAN Museum of African Arts (Musée Théodore Monod d'Art Africain)
The museum sits on Rue Emile Zola and is one of the city's principal collections of African art. Give it a slot in the middle of a day when you are already in the Plateau, since the surrounding streets are worth walking afterwards.
4. Musée Civilisations noires
This museum focuses on African civilisation and culture and the Nubian way of life. The rotunda building is a nice piece of architecture in its own right. It opens Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 to 19:00. You may need a little French to comprehend the placards, so bring a translation app or a phrasebook.
5. Les Almadies (Les pointes des Almadies)
This is the western tip of the African continent, and plenty of seafood restaurants are located here. Come hungry and plan to eat fish with the ocean in front of you. Birdwatchers should note that Les Almadies is a good place to see seabirds.
6. Place du Souvenir Africain
A plaza perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean, just south of the Radisson Blu, with the Henry Bathily Museum of the Women and some eateries and exhibition space. Here you can really take in the sunset from the edge of Africa. It is adjacent to the Sea Plaza shopping mall, so you can pair the view with a wander through the shops.
7. Phare des Mamelles
The lighthouse offers superb views of the ocean and the city skyline. Go for the outlook rather than the building itself, and time it so you are not rushed.
8. Plage des mamelles
One of Dakar's most popular and well-liked beaches, sandy and sitting just below Phare des Mamelles. The sunsets here are phenomenal. Watch out for big waves, and note that Max's restaurant is adjacent if you want to eat after swimming.
9. Dakar Grand Mosque
Built in 1964 by French and Moroccan architects on Av. Pape Gueye Fall. Due to the Moroccan influence, there are strong similarities with the Grand Mosque in Casablanca. It is an easy stop to fold into a walk through the surrounding streets.
10. Hann Park and Zoo
The public gardens were built in 1903 and the arboretum in 1947, and the gardens feature a wide variety of Senegalese plant life. The zoo contains over 130 animals. It opens Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 to 12:30 and 15:00 to 18:30, so plan around the midday closure rather than arriving at one o'clock.
11. Madeline Islands National Park (Le Parc National des Iles de la Madeleine)
An island off the Dakar tip with a pristine ecosystem, particularly birds and bird nests, along with Stone Age tool discoveries and a place of ancient worship. It is considered the smallest national park in the world, and it is the only African nesting site of the red-billed tropicbird. The boat trip can be a little intimidating, being in the open ocean on a canoe, but it feels a world away from the hustle of Dakar, which you can photograph from the island. The boat trip costs around 5000 CFA.
12. Lake Retba (Lac Rose)
Also called the Pink Lake, the high concentration of cyanobacteria gives the water a pink tone. During the dry season and when the sun is brightest the colour is said to be especially vivid. The lake has a high concentration of salt, so while you admire it you can also observe the salt harvesters who still gather salt in the traditional way.
13. Village Des Arts
An organic art studio and cultural exhibit forum for local artists, next to the stadium. Dance and musical events take place alongside artists working and pieces on display. It is open daily, 11:00 to 18:00.
14. Loman Art Gallery
A place for contemporary African art aficionados, owned by the eponymous artist, at villa no. 1 rue de pharmacy Atlantic Mamelles. Along with works by various artists you can find special showings, a cafe and even a homestay. Admission is free, and it is open daily, 10:00 to 18:00.
15. Léopold Sédar Senghor national stadium
Football is as important as music here. When the biggest team, ASC Jeanne D'Arc, plays, the stadium is packed with more than 60,000 fans, and you can expect passion, noise and African football at its best. It sits on Route de Yoff, next to Village Des Arts, so the two pair naturally on the same outing.
If you only have one day
Morning: Take the ferry from the terminal north of Place de l'Independence to Ile de Gorée, and spend the crossing and the island's colonial streets and House of Slaves museum at an unhurried pace. Stroll the whole island, which takes about an hour, before returning to the mainland.
Afternoon: Head to the African Renaissance Monument and pay the admission for the view from the top and the exhibition. Continue to the IFAN Museum of African Arts on Rue Emile Zola, then finish the afternoon at Les Almadies, where the seafood restaurants sit at the western tip of the continent.
Evening: Go to Place du Souvenir Africain, just south of the Radisson Blu, to take in the sunset from the edge of Africa, with the Henry Bathily Museum of the Women and the eateries and exhibition space on the plaza. If you still have energy, the Sea Plaza shopping mall is adjacent.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Ile de Gorée?
Ferries leave from the terminal north of Place de l'Independence and cost CFA5000. The trip takes ten to twenty minutes. There are small restaurants and a handful of places offering lodging on the island.
When is the best time to see Lake Retba at its pinkest?
During the dry season and when the sun is brightest, the colour is said to be especially vivid. You can also watch the salt harvesters gathering salt in the traditional way while you are there.
Which beaches should I be careful about swimming at?
At Plage BCEAO (Plage de Yoff) the beach is sometimes closed to swimming due to rubbish, release of sewage and open defecation, and instances of drowning. Plage du Virage is somewhat rocky and better for surfing than swimming, and Plage des mamelles has big waves to watch out for. Plage de l'Anse Bernard has a smaller wave break and is okay for swimming, and Plage de la Voile d'or is another nice beach that is good for swimming.
Where can I see birds in Dakar?
Les Almadies is a good place to see seabirds. The Iles de la Madeleine is the only African nesting site of the red-billed tropicbird, and Madeline Islands National Park is known for its birds and bird nests.
Start with the ferry timetable and the opening days for the museums, then build the rest of your days around the beaches and the sunset spots.