Stand at the foot of Siaka Stevens Street where the Cotton Tree once stood, and the whole story of Freetown is under your feet: the city was founded at this spot on 11 March 1792 by African Americans who had fought for the British in the American War of Independence and sailed from Nova Scotia to build new lives here. The tree itself collapsed on 24 May 2023, but its remains still anchor the middle of the city, with the Supreme Court building next door and the old board houses of the Krio streets spreading out around it.
Freetown suits travellers who are comfortable making their own arrangements and who value history and beaches over polished tourism infrastructure. Many of the city's attractions are underdeveloped and not well publicised, so it is not unusual to be the only visitor at some of them. This guide covers the sights and experiences in and around the city, from the colonial-era churches and steps downtown to the beaches along the peninsula, and finishes with a plan for a single day.
Top things to do in Freetown
1. Remains of Cotton tree
An ancient tree known to have been standing in the middle of the city since at least 1787, and the place where Freetown was established on 11 March 1792 by slaves freed by the British and returned to Africa. It was a symbol of the city and home to countless bats that fly around in daytime. It collapsed on 24 May 2023.
Come here first to orient yourself, then walk to the Supreme Court building next door and continue down Siaka Stevens Street, where the Sierra Leone National Museum and Sacred Heart Cathedral are both found.
2. Sierra Leone National Museum
On Siaka Stevens Street, the museum holds artefacts from the past including masks, relics from the war and local costumes, and offers guided tours. It also has a replica of the De Ruyter Stone; the original is buried at King Jimmy Market, where it was reburied to protect it against vandalism and weathering. In 1664, during the Anglo-Dutch war, vice admiral Ruyten made inscriptions on the stone as he was raiding British posts along the coast.
Pair it with the Supreme Court building and the Cotton Tree remains, all on or beside the same street, and allow time for the guided tour rather than rushing through.
3. Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary
Outside Freetown, the sanctuary requires a 4 wheel drive vehicle to reach. Follow the Regent road through Hill Station and Leicester, and watch for the entrance on the right. It opens twice daily at 10:30AM and 4PM, seven days a week, by appointment, with an entrance fee of Le 30,000, or Le 15,000 for children.
Book ahead, since visits are by appointment only, and combine the trip with the colonial stilt houses at Hill Station, which you pass through on the way.
4. Sierra Leone National Rail Museum
On Cline Street, this is one of only two government-funded railway museums in the world, the other being in the UK. It holds several steam and diesel locomotives and carriages, including one which was planned to be used by HM Queen Elizabeth II during her state visit, all of them restored. A guide will usually show visitors around, and entry is by donation.
It is open Monday to Saturday, 10:30AM to 5PM. Cline Street sits near Fourah Bay, so combine the museum with the Fourah Town Mosque in the same neighbourhood.
5. Bunce Island
Bunce Island is one of the most important historical sites in Africa. It lies in the Sierra Leone River and is reached by boat, so it takes a half day or more and some arranging.
Treat this as a serious historical visit rather than a casual outing, and set aside enough of the day that you are not watching the clock for the return crossing.
6. Sierra Leone Peace Museum
Dedicated to telling the story of Sierra Leone's decade-long conflict and reconciliation, the museum features interactive displays that illustrate the chronology of the conflict and the ensuing peace process, with galleries, photos and a memorial garden. The Human Rights Commission is one of the stakeholders in the organisation.
You can call ahead on +232 76819242 to check arrangements. The galleries reward unhurried reading, so leave it as the main stop of a half day rather than squeezing it between other sights.
7. Portuguese steps (Old Wharf steps)
These steps connect the lower Commissariat at the landing area to the French Company building on Wallance Johnson street. Despite their name, it was the British colonial governor Sir Charles MacCarthy who had them constructed in 1818; the Portuguese had colonised this area but were no longer there when the steps were built.
They are a short walk from the downtown sights, so fold them into a walk that takes in the old board houses, which show typical Krio architecture with Caribbean influence.
8. St. Johns Maroon Church
Finished in the 1820s, this is one of the oldest churches in Freetown still in use. It was built by Maroons, former slaves from Jamaica returning to Africa.
Visit on a weekday when the streets are quieter, and use it as a starting point for noticing the Maroon heritage around the city, including the district that came to be known as Maroon Town.
9. St. George's Cathedral
Finished in 1828 as one of the most impressive churches in the city, it is today the cathedral church of the Anglican Diocese of Freetown.
Combine it with the other historic churches and the Sacred Heart Cathedral on Siaka Stevens Street for a compact walk through Freetown's religious architecture.
10. Sacred Heart Cathedral
On Siaka Stevens Street, this is the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Metropolitan Archdiocese of Freetown, and one of four Catholic cathedrals in Sierra Leone. It was dedicated in 1887.
It sits on the same street as the National Museum and the Supreme Court building, so it fits naturally into a downtown morning.
11. Fourah Town Mosque (Jamiatul Atiq Mosque)
Finished in 1830, this is a large Sunni mosque in the Fourah Bay neighbourhood.
Pair it with the National Rail Museum on nearby Cline Street, since both are in the same part of the city.
12. Cape Sierra Leone Lighthouse
At the end of the peninsular close to Barmoi Hotel, head towards the radar tower. The lighthouse was built in 1812 by the British and is in good condition, having been refurbished in 2010. There are some stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean, and if you are lucky and can find someone, the local staff will show you around.
Go for the views rather than a scheduled tour, and be prepared for the possibility that no one is on hand to let you in.
13. Charlotte falls
Charlotte falls is reached via Charlotte village, southwest of Freetown.
The village is on the same side of the peninsula as the Regent road route out towards Tacugama, so the two can be considered together when you plan a day away from the city centre.
14. Lumley Beach
The main public beach close to Freetown itself, facing the Atlantic, with shops, restaurants, hotels, a golf course and local clubs. It is popular for football and running, and is normally crowded on holidays and at the weekend. A paved pathway now runs the length of the beach and is popular for walking and jogging, especially when the tide is in.
Avoid the Aberdeen end, which is covered with rubbish; it is better near the golf club.
15. Lakka Beach
About 10 minutes driving from Lumley, Lakka has many places to eat and sleep. The Hard Rock Café (no connection to the international brand) on the rocky peninsular has great views over the beach and offers superb fresh seafood, as do Paul's and Club Med, which also have excellent accommodation. Palm Beach, formerly the Cotton Club, is in a very bad shape but will soon be renovated.
Poda's (minibuses) will only take you as far as Lakka junction, so if you want to continue by public transport you will need an okada (motorbike).
16. No. 2 River Beach
Driving another 20 minutes beyond Lakka gets you to No. 2 River Beach. The villagers have set up a community project to look after this beach and river outflow, and there are small craft shops and a bar serving cold drinks and fresh fish or lobster. If you are old enough to remember the 1970s Taste of Paradise commercial for the Bounty chocolate bar, this is where it was filmed.
If you are driving yourself, a good vehicle is required, as road conditions are pretty bad once you leave the main road, and the beaches are often not well sign-posted, so watch carefully or use GPS.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the remains of the Cotton tree, then walk the short distance to the Supreme Court building and the Sierra Leone National Museum on Siaka Stevens Street, taking the guided tour. Continue on the same street to the Sacred Heart Cathedral, then walk down to the Portuguese steps (Old Wharf steps) and the old board houses nearby.
Afternoon: Head to the Sierra Leone National Rail Museum on Cline Street, open Monday to Saturday, 10:30AM to 5PM, where a guide will usually show you around, and stop at the Fourah Town Mosque in the same neighbourhood. If time allows, add St. Johns Maroon Church or St. George's Cathedral before leaving the centre.
Evening: Take a taxi out to Lumley Beach for the paved pathway along the sand, walking near the golf club end rather than the Aberdeen end, and stay for dinner at one of the restaurants along the beach road.
Frequently asked questions
When was Freetown founded, and where?
The city was founded on 11 March 1792 by 1,196 African Americans under the guidance of abolitionist Lieutenant John Clarkson, at the foot of the Cotton Tree. The tree collapsed on 24 May 2023, but its remains are still in the middle of the city.
Do I need a 4 wheel drive to visit Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary?
Yes. The sanctuary is outside Freetown and will require a 4 wheel drive vehicle. Follow the Regent road through Hill Station and Leicester and watch for the entrance on the right.
How do I get to the beaches beyond Lakka without a car?
Poda's (minibuses) will only take you as far as Lakka junction. To continue by public transport you will need an okada (motorbike). If you are driving yourself, a good vehicle is required, as the road conditions are pretty bad once you leave the main road.
When is the Sierra Leone National Rail Museum open?
It is open Monday to Saturday, 10:30AM to 5PM, and entry is by donation. A guide will usually show visitors around.
With the historic centre, the rail museum and a beach evening all within reach of each other, you have enough to start shaping your own itinerary for Freetown.