Stand on the Gash bridge in the late afternoon and the city arranges itself around you: the dry sandy riverbed below, football practice kicking up dust, and the Taka mountains rising behind the old quarter. Kassala is a market town of fruit gardens and tea stalls, and its pleasures are slow ones.
It suits travellers who are already in eastern Sudan and want a day or two of souqs, coffee and mountain views rather than a checklist of monuments. This guide covers the sights and experiences the sources describe, with practical notes on how to string them together.
Top things to do in Kassala
1. Khatmiya
Khatmiya is the old part of Kassala, sitting underneath the mountains of Taka, Totil and Aweitila. The main sight is the tomb of Seyyid Hassan, a local holy man buried in a roofless dome next to a semi-ruined mosque. Locals say he is so holy that when it rains, not a drop falls through the hole in the roof.
Combine it with the climb up Jebel Totil directly behind the tomb, and look out for the Qur'anic school for boys next to the tomb.
2. Tomb of Seyyid Hassan
The tomb is the focal point of Khatmiya and the city's most important cultural site. The Khatmiyya Mosque, built in 1840 by the Egyptians and damaged during the Mahdist War, is an important site for the Sufi Khatmiyya order.
Visit as part of a walk through the old quarter rather than as a standalone stop, and continue behind the tomb to the slopes of Jebel Totil.
3. Jebel Totil and the well of Totil
Behind the tomb you can climb the slopes of Jebel Totil. On the lower slopes there are several cafes built into the rock, serving the best coffee in Kassala. There is also the famous well of Totil: legend has it that if you drink from it, you will return to Kassala one day.
Go for the coffee and the views over the old town, and drink from the well while you are there.
4. Taka Mountains Nature Preserve
These dramatic mountains lie just south of Kassala. Climbing to the summit requires special equipment, but climbing halfway is possible in about an hour and offers expansive views.
Attempt the half-climb in the cooler part of the day, and pair it with a walk through the southern gardens afterwards.
5. Souq an-Niswaan
This is the women's souq, where baskets and mats are made, along with coffee making equipment and incense. It is one of the liveliest corners of the city's market life, with people dressed in clothes unique to their tribe.
Go in the morning when the stalls are busy, and bring small notes for purchases.
6. Souq ar-Rashaida
This is where the Rashaida tribe gather, selling bright red and black robes for women and coloured jellabiyas for men. The colour and cloth make it the most visually striking of the souqs.
Visit alongside Souq an-Niswaan, since the souqs are best taken in as one wandering circuit.
7. The Gash River
The Gash runs through Kassala, but for most of the year it is a dry sandy riverbed used for football practice in the evenings. In the rainy season, water cascades down from the Eritrean mountains and charges through the city, making the riverbanks a popular place to walk in the evening.
Note that the Gash is a dangerous river, having flooded in 2007 and 2003 with huge damage to the city, so keep your distance when the water is high.
8. Sikka Hadiid
Cross the Gash and you reach Sikka Hadiid, the old railway quarter. The original railway station still stands, impressive and colonial but abandoned, surrounded by British-built round brick huts that once housed railway workers and are now a popular place for students to live.
Combine it with a walk along the riverbank, and treat the buildings as a walk-through rather than a formal visit.
9. Sawagi Janubiyya
To the south, the Sawagi Janubiyya, or southern gardens, is a collection of villages surrounded by mango and guava orchards alongside the Gash. To walk it, cross the Gash bridge and take the road to your left, which leads you through the Sawagi villages.
After five kilometres or so you can get alongside the Gash, and if it is dry you can cross over to the mountains and Khatmiya.
10. Coffee at the tea stalls
Kassala has hundreds of tea stalls, and drinking coffee at one of them, or at a cafe on Totil mountain, is one of the simplest ways to spend an hour here.
Save it for the late afternoon, when the city slows down and the light on the mountains is at its best.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start in Khatmiya, the old part of the city under the mountains, and visit the Tomb of Seyyid Hassan and the Khatmiyya Mosque. Walk the short distance to Souq an-Niswaan and Souq ar-Rashaida while the stalls are busy.
Afternoon: Climb the lower slopes of Jebel Totil behind the tomb, stopping at one of the rock cafes for coffee and visiting the well of Totil. If you have energy left, head south to the Taka Mountains Nature Preserve and climb halfway for the views.
Evening: Cross the Gash bridge into Sikka Hadiid to see the abandoned colonial railway station and the round brick huts, then walk the riverbank or continue into the Sawagi Janubiyya orchards as the day cools.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of year to visit Kassala?
Kassala has a hot desert climate with high temperatures, low precipitation and abundant sunshine. April through June is the hottest period, the wet season runs from July through September with higher humidity and intermittent rainfall, and the rest of the year is very dry with nearly no precipitation from November to March.
What is the Gash River like outside the rainy season?
For most of the year it is a dry sandy riverbed, used for football practice in the evenings. In the rainy season, water cascades down from the Eritrean mountains and charges through the city, and the riverbanks become a popular place to walk in the evenings.
Can I climb the mountains around Kassala?
At the Taka Mountains Nature Preserve, climbing to the summit requires special equipment, but climbing halfway is possible in about an hour and offers expansive views. Behind the tomb of Seyyid Hassan you can also climb the slopes of Jebel Totil, where cafes are built into the rock on the lower slopes.
What can I buy in the souqs?
Souq an-Niswaan sells baskets, mats, coffee making equipment and incense, while Souq ar-Rashaida is where the Rashaida tribe sell bright red and black robes for women and coloured jellabiyas for men.
Use this as your starting point, check the season against your plans, and begin mapping your days around the souqs, the old quarter and the mountains.