Stand in the middle of Piața Sfatului on a summer evening and the old town closes in around you: the former Council House on one side, the dark bulk of the Black Church just south of the square, and the "B-R-A-S-O-V" letters glowing on Tâmpa above the rooftops. This is the pedestrianised core of the walled Saxon city of Kronstadt, and almost everything worth seeing on a short trip sits within a walk of it.
Brașov suits travellers who like their cities compact and walkable, with mountains at the end of the street and a hiking trail or a cable car within reach of lunch. It also rewards anyone interested in the layers of Transylvanian history: Saxon merchants, Romanian families kept outside the walls in Șchei, and the fortifications that separated them.
This guide covers the main sights of the Old Town and the Șchei district, a few things to do further out, and how to string the best of them together if you only have one day.
Top things to do in Brașov
1. The Black Church
The Black Church (Biserica Neagră) is the landmark of the old town, built in the 15th century in late Gothic style with three naves and later restored in Baroque style after the Great Fire of 1689 scorched it — hence the name. Inside you will find a six-tonne bell, a 4000-pipe organ built in 1839 by Carl August Buchholz, and a collection of Anatolian carpets donated by city merchants in the Middle Ages.
It sits just south of the main square, so combine it with a walk around Piața Sfatului. The organ is still played during weekly concerts, and organ concerts are also held here in June, September (Tuesdays) and July, August (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays). Note that photography is not allowed inside the church, and if you want to take photos in any museum you must pay an extra fee — ask when buying tickets.
2. Piața Sfatului and the former Council House
The main square is the centre of the pedestrianised Old Town and the natural place to start. It is marked by the mayor's former office building, Casa Sfatului, and includes one of the oldest buildings in Brașov, the Hirscher Haus. The square is also the venue for the Cerbul de Aur (Golden Stag) music festival.
Stroll at random from here, follow the route suggested in the Brasov cultural itinerary, or join one of the free guided walking tours run by Guided-Brasov.com. Republicii street forms the spine of the old town and is worth walking end to end.
3. The Șchei and Catherine Gates
The Old Town ends at the Șchei and St Catherine Gates. The medieval entrance and tollgate was St Catherine's Gate, which you could barely fit a horse and cart through; in 1828 it was replaced by the wider Șchei Gate and blocked off. A well-preserved section of wall runs east then north from here.
Approach them along Poarta Șchei, the street leading down to the gates of the old town. This is the boundary between the walled city and the Șchei district beyond, so it works well as the start of a walk south.
4. Rope Street
Along Poarta Șchei, by number 19, you will find Rope Street (Strada Sforii), a picturesque alley. It is a short detour rather than a destination in itself.
Pair it with the gates and the walk into Șchei, since it lies on the same street. Look for it by the street number, as it is easy to pass without noticing.
5. Weavers' Bastion
The Weavers' Bastion on Strada Coșbuc is the best preserved and most interesting bastion of the walled city. In the courtyard there is a small building hosting a museum, a branch of the County History Museum, where you can see old weapons and a large clay model of 17th-century Brașov.
It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00-17:00. Combine it with the stretch of wall and the other bastions nearby: the Spinners' Bastion opposite the cable-car station, and the Drapers' Bastion to the east.
6. The White Tower and the Black Tower
These two towers stand on the northern hillside above the old town. The view from the Black Tower balcony is especially nice and is usually included in most Brașov guide books.
They make a natural pairing with the walk along the preserved section of wall, and with the Weavers' Bastion, since all sit on the same circuit around the old town's edge.
7. St. Nicholas Church
In the Șchei district, centred on Piața Unirii, St. Nicholas Church was the first Orthodox church of Brașov and an old cultural and spiritual centre for the Romanians. The church dates from 1495-1512, Gothic embellished with Baroque, with fine murals by Mișu Popp.
Șchei is a charming area to stroll or stay, so give yourself time here rather than treating the church as a quick stop. It is the anchor of the district.
8. First Romanian School
In the church precincts on Piața Unirii, this was the first school on the territory of present-day Romania where Romanian language was used in education; previously Romanians used Church Slavonic. The school was founded in the 14th century, the present building is from 1761, and it is now a museum presenting old books and texts.
It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00-17:00, and sits in the same precinct as St. Nicholas Church, so see the two together.
9. Tâmpa
Tâmpa is the mountain looming over the city, with the Hollywood-style "B-R-A-S-O-V" letters lit up at night. It is accessible by a steep one hour hike, or by the cable-car (Telecabină), which runs every 30 minutes to 16:00.
Stout shoes are recommended on the ridge trail, and essential if snow is still lying. The valley south of the peak is Valea Cetății, its lower slopes urbanised but with various bosky hiking trails around and across the mountain.
10. Brașov Citadel
Brașov Citadel (Cetatea Brașovului) looms over the old town. Enjoy the stroll and the view from the hill, but note that you cannot visit within.
Treat it as a viewpoint to work into a walk above the town rather than a sight with a ticket desk.
11. County History Museum
On Piața Sfatului, the County History Museum (Muzeul Județean de Istorie) holds local exhibits from the stone age to the present day. It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00-18:00.
Because it is right on the main square, it slots easily into a morning of sightseeing. Remember the extra fee if you want to take photographs.
12. Museum of Urban Civilisation
Also on Piața Sfatului, this museum presents the life of the local patriciate between the 17th and 20th centuries. It is open Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00-17:00.
It is a branch of the Museum of Ethnography on Bulevardul Eroilor 21A, so enquire about combi-tickets if you plan to visit both.
13. Mureșenilor House Memorial Museum
On the main square, this museum commemorates the members of the Mureșanu family, including Andrei Mureșanu, the writer of the national anthem. Exhibits are in Romanian only.
The house also hosts free classical music recitals, which is a good reason to check what is on while you are in the square.
14. Beth Israel Synagogue
On Poarta Șchei, with entrance by number 29, the Beth Israel Synagogue is open Monday to Friday, 09:00-16:00. It sits on the same street as Rope Street and the route down to the gates.
Pair it with the walk into Șchei, since it lies directly on the way.
15. St Bartholomew Church
St Bartholomew Church (Biserica Sf. Bartolomeu) is the oldest Gothic church in the city, dating to 1241. It stands 1.5 km north of the old town at the foot of Strada Lunga, and bus 5 and 28 run this way.
Because it is outside the compact centre, save it for a trip that has time beyond the Old Town and Șchei.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start on Piața Sfatului, looking at the former Council House and the Hirscher Haus, then visit the Black Church just south of the square. If you have time before lunch, step into the County History Museum or the Museum of Urban Civilisation, both on the square.
Afternoon. Walk down Poarta Șchei, detouring by number 19 for Rope Street and passing the Beth Israel Synagogue by number 29, until you reach the Șchei and St Catherine Gates. Follow the preserved wall east and north to the Weavers' Bastion, then continue to the White Tower and the Black Tower for the view from the Black Tower balcony. Cross into Șchei for St. Nicholas Church and the First Romanian School on Piața Unirii.
Evening. Return to the old town and take the cable-car up Tâmpa to see the "B-R-A-S-O-V" letters and the city from above — remember it runs every 30 minutes to 16:00, so plan this before late afternoon if you want the ride rather than the hike. End the day back around Piața Sfatului.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to hear the organ at the Black Church?
The 4000-pipe organ built by Carl August Buchholz is still played during weekly concerts. Organ concerts are held in June and September on Tuesdays, and in July and August on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
Can I take photographs inside the sights?
In the Black Church you cannot take photos. In any museum, you must pay an extra fee if you wish to take photos, so inquire when buying tickets.
How do I get up Tâmpa?
You can hike up, which is a steep one hour walk, or take the cable-car (Telecabină), which runs every 30 minutes to 16:00. Stout shoes are recommended on the ridge trail and are essential if snow is still lying.
What is there to see in the Șchei district?
Șchei is centred on St. Nicholas Church and Piața Unirii, and is a charming area to stroll or stay. In the church precincts you will find the First Romanian School, now a museum presenting old books and texts, open Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00-17:00.
With the old town, the walls and Șchei all within walking distance of each other, you can start shaping an itinerary around Brașov now.