Stand at the bottom of Calle Colón, just before it corners El Paraguayo Independiente, and the colonial façades of La Recova face you across a line of stalls selling local arts and crafts. Behind them the river port and the Aduana building mark the edge of the Paraguay River, and a short walk east brings you to the mirrored front of the Congreso Nacional. Few capitals put their history this close to the water.
Asunción suits travellers who like their cities on foot, with colonial houses, a working riverfront and a plaza or two to sit in between stops. It also rewards anyone willing to slow down: the sights here are close together, and the best of them are free.
This guide covers the main places in the historic centre and a few further out, with practical notes on when to go and what to pair with what.
Top things to do in Asunción
1. Palacio de López
The government palace dates from 1857 and was built in the style of Versailles as a palace for Francisco Solano López. It houses the Paraguayan executive branch, and the interior is not open to the public, but it is very well lit at night and worth seeing from the outside.
Pair it with the Manzana de la Rivera directly opposite, where a café and bar have the best views over the palace. Come back after dark for the lighting.
2. Manzana de la Rivera
A museum and cultural centre complex made up of ten colonial-era houses, some dating from the 1700s and nicely restored. Among them are the Casa Viola, reportedly the oldest house of Asunción, which now holds the Museo Memoria de la Ciudad with historical photos and city information, and the Casa Clari, with exhibition halls and a bar overlooking the government palace. The complex also includes the Miguel Acevedo Cultural Centre, the Ruy Díaz de Guzmán Auditorium and the Casa Vertúa, which houses the municipal library.
Entry is free. It sits directly opposite the Palacio de López, so combine the two in one stop.
3. Centro Cultural El Cabildo
An old colonial building that served as the Congress Palace until 2003, now a cultural centre near the riverside costanera with several exhibition spaces. The Sala Museo del Barro presents indigenous art from native groups of Paraguay and Latin America; the Sala Agustín Pío Barrios – Mangoré covers the life and work of the Paraguayan guitar composer; the Sala de la Escena Paraguaya – Edda de los Ríos is devoted to the performing arts. There are also clay works by potter Julia Isídrez and traditional Christmas cribs by local artists.
It is one of the few museums open on weekends: Tuesday to Friday 09:00–20:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00–17:00. Entry is free. It sits at one edge of Plaza de la Independencia, so pair it with the plaza and the cathedral.
4. Casa de la Independencia
A historic house built in 1772 where the independence of Paraguay was secretly planned in 1811. It is well preserved and furnished with items of historic and artistic interest, and it operates as a museum. It is one block down from Palma Street.
Open Monday to Friday 08:00–18:00 and Saturday 08:00–13:00, free of charge. Go on a weekday morning if you want the fullest opening hours.
5. Panteón Nacional de los Héroes
On Palma at the corner of Chile, this houses the tomb of the unknown soldier along with other national heroes from Paraguay's history, and commemorative plaques for heroes of the Triple Alliance and Chaco War. The changing of the guard occurs every other day.
It is a short walk from the cathedral and Plaza de la Independencia, so it fits easily into a walk through the centre.
6. Catedral Metropolitana
The national cathedral, next to the broad and picturesque Plaza de la Independencia. The building dates to the mid-17th century and was rebuilt between 1842 and 1849, with an altar decorated with Jesuit and Franciscan silver.
Combine it with the plaza, the memorial to those who died in the struggle for democracy in 1999, and the Centro Cultural El Cabildo on the other sides of the square.
7. Congreso Nacional
One of the more impressive new buildings in the city, built in 2013 in steel and glass to represent a huge ship moored on the river bank, and incorporating part of the old congress building. Its mirrored façade reflects the nearby slums along the bank of the river.
You can ask for a tour in English and may get one. Arrive by 13:00 so that you can also visit the small museum inside.
8. Estación Central del Ferrocarril
The old railway station, built between 1861 and 1864 with British assistance; Paraguay had one of the first passenger railways in South America. No trains run any more, but there is a small museum featuring the old carriages, and the building itself and the old wagons are the main draw. Entry is free.
It stands at Eligio Ayala and México, six blocks east along Presidente Franco from the Teatro Municipal, so the two make a natural pair.
9. Teatro Municipal
Fully restored to its belle époque glory, with regular shows worth checking for. There is a nice café at one of the theatre's corners.
It is one block south of the Correos building at Alberdi and Presidente Franco, on the same walking route as the cathedral and the plaza.
10. Museo del Barro
Described as the best museum in town, with displays of Paraguayan art ranging from pre-colonial ceramics and textiles to avant-garde contemporary art.
Set aside proper time here rather than squeezing it between other stops.
11. Plaza Uruguaya
A nice shady park between 25 de Mayo, México, José de Antequera y Castro and Doctor Eligio Ayala, with bookstores and some old buildings around it. Free wifi.
Use it as a rest stop in the middle of a walking day in the centre.
12. Iglesia de la Encarnación
A big church with a big pipe organ, the only one in the country.
Worth a detour if you are already exploring the centre on foot.
13. Jardín Botánico y Zoológico
A very peaceful place filled with trees and nice paths, good for finding a shady spot and eating a picnic lunch. Inside the park you can visit Madame Lynch's house, a very beautiful example of Paraguayan colonial architecture.
It is on Avenida Primer Presidente, away from the historic centre, so give it a half day rather than an hour.
14. Parque Ñu Guazú
Asunción's biggest park, full of ponds and people playing sports, just outside the city in Luque on the way to the airport. There is a paved 9-km loop for jogging or walking, popular with local runners.
Spend the day or bring a picnic. It pairs well with a trip out toward the airport.
15. Mirador Ita Pyta Punta
A pleasant small park at one of the edges of the city, at the end of Calle Doctor Montero in the Ita Pyta Punta neighbourhood. The name means red stone rock in Guaraní, and the lookout over the Paraguay River gives nice views of sunsets in the afternoons.
The lookout is officially closed and fenced off, though locals have opened the doors through it. Ita Pyta Punta is not the safest neighbourhood at night, and a taxi may be the better option if you are alone. The final stops of Bus 56 and Bus 36 are a few blocks away.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the bottom of Calle Colón at La Recova, then walk east along Calle El Paraguayo Independiente to the Palacio de López. Cross to the Manzana de la Rivera and look through the colonial houses and the Museo Memoria de la Ciudad. Continue to the Congreso Nacional and arrive by 13:00 so you can also see the small museum inside.
Afternoon. Spend the early afternoon around Plaza de la Independencia: the Centro Cultural El Cabildo, the Catedral Metropolitana and the memorial on the plaza. Walk to the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes on Palma at Chile, then on to the Casa de la Independencia, one block down from Palma Street. If time allows, continue east along Presidente Franco to the Teatro Municipal and the Estación Central del Ferrocarril.
Evening. Return to the Palacio de López to see it lit up at night, and take a table at the bar in the Manzana de la Rivera complex for the view over the palace.
Frequently asked questions
Which sights in Asunción are free?
The Centro Cultural El Cabildo, the Casa de la Independencia and the Estación Central del Ferrocarril are all free, as is the Manzana de la Rivera complex. Parque Seminario charges US$0.50 for pedestrians and US$1.50 for cars.
When is the best time to see the Palacio de López?
The interior is not open to the public, so plan around the exterior. It is very well lit at night, and the bar at the Manzana de la Rivera opposite has the best views over it.
Can I visit the Congreso Nacional?
You can ask for a tour in English and may get one. Arrive by 13:00 so that you will also be able to visit the small museum inside.
Is the Mirador Ita Pyta Punta easy to reach?
It sits at the end of Calle Doctor Montero in the Ita Pyta Punta neighbourhood, a few blocks from the final stops of Bus 56 and Bus 36. The lookout is officially closed and fenced off, and the neighbourhood is not the safest at night, so a taxi may be better if you are alone.
Pick the sights that fit your days, check the opening hours that matter to you, and start mapping your walk through the centre.