Stand on Magsaysay Boulevard near the city hall and the bay opens out in front of you, with the strait beyond and Samar on the far side. This is the stretch where Tacloban keeps its monuments close together, and it is the easiest place to start understanding the city.
Tacloban suits travellers who are interested in the Second World War in the Pacific, in Waray culture, and in a regional centre that is honest about its recent history. It is a working city rather than a resort, and most of what there is to see can be covered on foot or with short rides across town.
1. San Juanico Bridge
The bridge connects Tacloban to Samar, the third biggest island of the Philippines, and spans 2.14 km. It is one of the longest bridges in the country and one of the major tourist spots in the city.
Because it links Leyte and Samar, you can combine the crossing with a look at the water below, where San Juanico Strait divides the two islands. Give yourself time to stop and take it in rather than just driving across.
2. Leyte Provincial Capitol
On Senator Enage St, this building served as the seat of the Philippine Commonwealth in 1944. It is the point where Tacloban briefly became the temporary capital of the country.
Pair it with the other wartime sites in the centre of town, since they sit within a short distance of one another.
3. Price Mansion
On Justice Romualdez Street, the CAP Building served as the residence and headquarters of General Douglas MacArthur for three months. It is one of the clearest physical links in the city to the 1944 liberation period.
Visit it as part of a walk that takes in the Capitol and the waterfront monuments on Magsaysay Boulevard.
4. Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum
On Real Street, this is one of the named sights in the city and sits on the same street as several other stops.
Combine it with the Tacloban City Convention Center and The People's Center and Library, both also on Real Street, so you cover the street in one pass.
5. Philippine-Japan Commemorative Peace Park
On Magsaysay Boulevard, a stone's throw away from city hall, the park was donated by the Tokyo Survivors Associations in honour of soldiers and paramilitary personnel who perished in the area.
It sits beside the other Magsaysay Boulevard monuments, so it works well as part of a single walk along the waterfront.
6. The Maria Kanon Madonna of Peace Shrine
Also on Magsaysay Boulevard and near the city hall, the shrine was carved out of a rare Miyagi rock and fashioned by Japanese sculptor Shiniche Tani.
See it on the same walk as the Peace Park and the Crucified Christ and the Map of Leyte Pilgrim Monument.
7. Crucified Christ and the Map of Leyte Pilgrim Monument
On Magsaysay Boulevard, this monument is one of the cluster of markers along the same stretch of road.
Because it is close to the Peace Park and the Madonna of Peace Shrine, the three are best seen together rather than as separate trips.
8. Calvary Hill
Here you will find larger than life statues of Jesus Christ and other personages, arranged in tableaux that depict Christ's sacrifice and sufferings.
It is a place to linger rather than rush, so allow time to walk the tableaux in order.
9. World War II Japanese Pillboxes
In Baluarte, San Jose, these pillboxes are among the surviving wartime structures in the city.
They are a useful counterpoint to the liberation-era sites in the centre, since they date from the occupation period rather than the return.
10. Balyuan Amphitheater
The amphitheater is one of the named sights in the city and shares its name with the Balyu-an Rites held here.
Check whether anything is scheduled during your visit, as the space is tied to the city's events calendar.
11. Tacloban City Convention Center
On Real Street in the Sagkahan District, it is popularly known as the Astrodome.
It is on the same street as the Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum and The People's Center and Library, so group the three.
12. The People's Center and Library
On Real Street, it houses volumes of books from the US and Europe and other countries.
It makes a quiet stop between the busier sights on the same street.
13. Boy Scout Monument
In Fatima Village, this monument is one of the named landmarks in the city.
It is away from the Magsaysay Boulevard cluster, so plan it as its own short stop.
14. Indoor climbing at Bukid Outdoor Shop
On P. Burgos Street, the shop offers indoor climbing.
Useful on a wet day, given that Tacloban is wet throughout the year and December is the wettest month on average.
15. San Juanico Golf Park and Country Club
In the Cabalawan Hills, this is the city's golf course and sits away from the centre.
Combine it with a trip out towards the San Juanico Bridge, since both take you north of the city centre.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start on Magsaysay Boulevard, where the Philippine-Japan Commemorative Peace Park, The Maria Kanon Madonna of Peace Shrine and the Crucified Christ and the Map of Leyte Pilgrim Monument sit close together near the city hall. Continue to Calvary Hill to walk the tableaux.
Afternoon. Move to the centre for the wartime sites: Leyte Provincial Capitol on Senator Enage St and Price Mansion on Justice Romualdez Street. Then take Real Street for the Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, the Tacloban City Convention Center and The People's Center and Library.
Evening. Head out to the San Juanico Bridge as the light softens over the strait, with the crossing to Samar ahead of you. If the weather has turned, indoor climbing at Bukid Outdoor Shop on P. Burgos Street is the alternative.
When is the best time of year to visit Tacloban?
Tacloban is wet throughout the year. December has the most rainfall on average, while April has the least. The warmest month on average is May, and January and February are the coolest.
What events might I catch in Tacloban?
The city holds the Grand Santacruzan on May 30, the Sangyaw Festival on June 29, and the Barrio Fiesta for the Leyte Landing Anniversary on October 20. The Balyu-an Rites, Tacloban City Charter Day and the Pintados-Kasadyaan Festival are also part of the calendar.
What is the Subiran Regatta?
It is a race of one-man native sailboats with outriggers, locally called subiran, held along Leyte Gulf. The race is done without using a paddle, relying only on skill and technique to manoeuvre the sail.
Which sights are close enough to see together?
The Philippine-Japan Commemorative Peace Park, The Maria Kanon Madonna of Peace Shrine and the Crucified Christ and the Map of Leyte Pilgrim Monument are all on Magsaysay Boulevard near the city hall. On Real Street you can combine the Santo Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, the Tacloban City Convention Center and The People's Center and Library.
Work out which of these fit your days, check the festival dates against your travel window, and you have enough to start planning a trip to Tacloban.