Stand on the hill at Duke Town and the Calabar River opens below you, with the old waterfront, the mission-era buildings and the creeks of the Cross River stretching away inland. This is a city whose past is unusually legible in its streets: colonial architecture in Duke Town, Henshaw Town and the waterfront areas, and a museum housed in a prefabricated building shipped over from Glasgow.
Calabar suits travellers who want history told through buildings and documents rather than plaques, and who are willing to arrange visits in advance. It also suits anyone in town for the Calabar Carnival in December, when the city fills with music, parades and a boat regatta.
1. National Museum
Housed in the Old Government House on Ekpo Eyo Drive in Duke Town, on the hill overlooking the waterfront, this was the former residence of the colonial governor. The building was designed and built in Glasgow and shipped over in pieces. The collection concentrates on the history of Calabar, the region and slavery, and holds a large quantity of original documents relating to Nigeria.
Because it is not heavily frequented by tourists, you can easily get a guided tour from one of the staff. Interested visitors could spend three hours there and barely touch the surface of the material; the artifacts relating to palm oil production at the back are worth seeking out. It is open Monday to Friday, 9AM to 4PM, and sits down the hill from The Marina Resort.
2. The Marina Resort
Down the hill from the National Museum, on the river, this resort is home to buildings dating back to the colonial era alongside modern facilities: a slave museum, speed boat rides that may go to Twins Island, go carts at the car park area, a carousel horse ride, a film theatre and night clubs. It affords a rare view of the Calabar River in a relaxed atmosphere at the Tortuga Island bar and pier bar, and there are on-site tour guides.
Entry is ₦100, the slave museum ₦200, and a boat ride around ₦1000 and negotiable. Pair it with the National Museum above, since the two are on the same hillside.
3. Slave History Museum
Located in a former slave-trading warehouse, this museum includes numerous artifacts as well as information about the abolition movement. It is the natural companion to the National Museum's material on the region and slavery.
Allow time to read rather than pass through, and combine it with the rest of your waterfront and Duke Town walking.
4. Duke Town church
Built in 1846, this is one of the oldest churches in Nigeria, established by the Presbyterian church missionaries. Near Duke Town Secondary School, past the church, is a cemetery where the tomb of Mary Slessor, a missionary from Dundee, Scotland, who was very influential in this part of Nigeria, is located. There are stunning views over the town and river.
Watch out for your safety in this neighbourhood. Visit as part of a Duke Town walk rather than as a standalone trip.
5. Duke Town Hall (Ekpe Stone)
On Eton by Eyamba Street, the present site of the Magistrate Court was before colonialism more or less a town hall, also used as an Ekpe lodge, and the "Itiat Ekpe" there represents it. The Itiat Ekpe dates back to the days of Ekpenyong Offiong Okoho, who was Eyamba (III). Before the establishment of colonial administration, the King's court arbitrated on all matters, sometimes in conjunction with the Ekpe Fraternity, and the Court of Equity was later established here by Sir John Beecroft in 1849.
A guided tour is the way to see it. It fits naturally into the same Duke Town walk as the church and the National Museum.
6. Hope Waddell Training Institution
This school was dedicated to the memory of Rev. H. Mastron Waddell, the leader of the mission team that first came to Old Calabar in 1846. The first building erected at the school was a unique two-storey prefabricated structure, built in 1894. It is now proposed to house a visitor's centre and Hall of Fame for past students of the institution, and is undergoing refurbishment.
Entry is free. Because of the refurbishment, treat the building as a stop on a wider Duke Town and mission-history walk rather than a fixed attraction.
7. Drill Monkey Rehab Centre
On Atekong Dr, west of Jahas Guest House, this centre was set up by two biologists from the USA, Peter Jenkins and Liza Gadsby, who were persuaded by the Nigerian Government to stay in Nigeria and look after the endangered Drill Monkeys, traditionally hunted and eaten in the Afi Mountain range that borders Cameroon. Staff in Calabar care for rescued monkeys, including those taken from people trying to smuggle and export them, and return them to the wild at the Drill Ranch in Afi Mountains.
You need a decent vehicle and a map to get to the ranch, and the Afi Mountain Ranch near Katabang has cabins for guest accommodation and a forest canopy walkway 25 m high. You are able to visit both after prior arrangement with the team, and a donation is expected. Go and meet Mickey the chimp.
8. Tinapa Resort
On the north-west side of town, Tinapa Resort was intended as Nigeria's big tourist destination, complete with a monorail and venues for wholesale emporiums, integrated shopping complexes and business tourism and entertainment facilities. It is dilapidated.
The monorail is ₦1000. Go with adjusted expectations and treat it as a look at an ambitious project rather than a polished day out.
9. Calabar Carnival
Known as "Africa's Biggest Street Party", the carnival is held every year through the month of December and attracts thousands from within and beyond Nigeria. It includes music performances from both local and international artists, a boat regatta, fashion shows, a Christmas Village, traditional dances and the annual Ekpe Festival.
If your trip can be timed to December, this is the single event that shapes the city's calendar. Book around it rather than hoping to add it on.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start in Duke Town with Duke Town Hall (Ekpe Stone) on Eton by Eyamba Street, then walk to Duke Town church on Eyamba Street, continuing past Duke Town Secondary School to the cemetery and the tomb of Mary Slessor for the views over the town and river. Keep your bearings in the neighbourhood.
Afternoon: Move up to the National Museum on Ekpo Eyo Drive, in the Old Government House on the hill overlooking the waterfront, and use the quiet to take a guided tour from one of the staff. Then walk down the hill to The Marina Resort for the slave museum and the river views from the bars and pier.
Evening: Stay at The Marina Resort, where the night clubs and the relaxed atmosphere by the Calabar River make it the natural place to end the day.
When is the best time to visit Calabar?
If you want the carnival, come in December, when it runs through the month with music performances, a boat regatta, fashion shows, a Christmas Village, traditional dances and the annual Ekpe Festival. Outside that period the city is quieter, and the National Museum in particular is not heavily frequented by tourists.
How do I visit the Drill Monkey Rehab Centre and the Afi Mountain Ranch?
You need to arrange it in advance with the team. You also need a decent vehicle and a map to reach the ranch, and the Afi Mountain Ranch near Katabang has cabins for guest accommodation and a forest canopy walkway 25 m high.
What should I expect to pay at The Marina Resort?
Entry is ₦100, the slave museum is ₦200, and a boat ride is around ₦1000 and negotiable. The resort has on-site tour guides.
Is the National Museum worth a long visit?
Yes, if you are interested in the material. It holds a large quantity of original documents relating to Nigeria and concentrates on the history of Calabar, the region and slavery, and interested persons could spend three hours there and barely touch the surface. It is open Monday to Friday, 9AM to 4PM.
Decide whether December's carnival or a quieter month of museums and Duke Town walking suits you better, then start planning around that.