From the top of Monte Cabeça de Velho you look down on the whole layout of Chimoio, the city spread out below and the rural landscape beyond it. The rock above you has been carved by nature into the shape of an old man's head, and in the rainy season the water running down its face looks like tears.
Chimoio suits travellers moving along the Beira Corridor between Zimbabwe and the coast, and anyone using the city as a base for the Chimanimani Mountains. It is a place for slow days, short walks and a few worthwhile excursions rather than a packed schedule of sights.
This guide covers the places worth your time in and around the city, and how to string them together if you have only one day.
Top things to do in Chimoio
1. Monte Cabeça de Velho
Monte Cabeça de Velho, also known as Monte Bengo, is the symbol of Chimoio. The hill resembles the head of an old man, and the climb is not terribly high but gives a nice view of the city. Small antelopes or monkeys can sometimes be glimpsed in the forest on the way up.
The path start is southwest of the peak. Locals hold the hill in great esteem and it has a mystical reputation; at certain times of the year it takes on a spiritual role for local traditionalistic communities. Around November there is a festival of music, books, crafts and other cultural events surrounding its celebration. The walk to the hill and through the local neighbourhoods gives you a good introduction to life in Mozambique if you are just arriving from Zimbabwe.
2. Chimanimani Mountains
Chimoio is the departure point for Chimanimani National Park and Mount Binga, the highest elevation in Mozambique. If you decide to climb Mount Binga, you can contact a guide from Chimoio, or arrange one with the assistance of staff once in Chimanimani, though it is better to plan ahead.
Depending on your mode of transport, you can take a chapa towards Sussundenga and then another to the entrance of the park. Count on at least two days, as the trek to the peak of Mount Binga is a long one.
3. Cachoeira de Amizade
Cachoeira de Amizade is in the District of Gondola, not far from Chimoio city. These popular waterfalls draw anybody during the hot season and are a good place to cool off and chill.
Getting there is a relatively short chapa ride, which makes it an easy half-day when the heat is at its worst.
4. Casa Msika
Casa Msika is a private lodge on Lake Chicamba, a popular hang-out for locals with a car or motorcycle and for group retreats and workshops. It has a beautiful view of the lake and the Messica river, along with a restaurant and swimming pool.
There is a crocodile enclosure and the property holds wildlife. The chalets are rustic, though the owner may improve the accommodations. It is nice for a stroll around the dam, but watch out for the ants.
5. Praça dos Heróis
Praça dos Heróis, or Heroes' Square, is one of the most visible marks of the period of fighting for independence. An impressive mural was painted there depicting the various episodes in Mozambican history, with emphasis on becoming independent from Portugal.
It is a straightforward stop in the city and pairs naturally with a walk through the centre, where most of the buildings are milestones of the city's life under Portuguese rule.
6. The old Vila Pery buildings
Most of the buildings in the city of Chimoio date from its dynamism under Portuguese rule, when it was known as Vila Pery. The Vila Pery Hotel, built in 1920, was the first hotel in Vila Pery and now serves as the Police social centre.
The Caldas Xavier Primary School, built in 1948, was the first school in Vila Pery and nowadays houses the Chimoio Municipal Council. The Montalto Cinema, built in 1969 and abandoned after independence, was named after the "monte alto" or high mountain of Mozambique, Mount Binga, on the Manica plateau. These are a few of the structures commemorating the city's golden age, and they are best seen on foot through the centre.
7. Soalpo neighbourhood
A few kilometres from the centre of the current city lies the neighbourhood of Soalpo, which bears witness to the agro-industrial development that made the Province of Manica one of the main targets for agriculture investment in the Portuguese colony.
This "town close to the city of Chimoio" was built by SOALPO, the Portuguese Cotton Company, in 1944, to encourage cotton and textile production. It is worth the detour if you are interested in how the city's agricultural and textile economy took shape.
8. The railway station
Chimoio has one of the most important railway stations on the Beira–Bulawayo railway. The town lies on the line from Beira to Bulawayo, and the railway was central to the growth of the settlement that became the city.
Combine a look at the station with your walk through the centre, since both sit within the same compact area of town.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start early with the climb up Monte Cabeça de Velho, taking the path that begins southwest of the peak. The walk up and through the surrounding neighbourhoods gives you a good introduction to the city, and the view from the top lays out the whole of Chimoio below you.
Afternoon: Come down and walk the centre, taking in Praça dos Heróis and its mural, then the old Vila Pery buildings such as the Vila Pery Hotel and the Caldas Xavier Primary School, and the railway station. If the heat is heavy, a relatively short chapa ride to Cachoeira de Amizade makes a good place to cool off.
Evening: Head out to Casa Msika on Lake Chicamba for the view over the lake and the Messica river, with a restaurant and swimming pool on hand, and a stroll around the dam before dark.
Frequently asked questions
What is Monte Cabeça de Velho and why is it significant?
It is a hill that resembles the head of an old man and serves as the symbol of Chimoio. Locals hold it in great esteem and it has a mystical reputation, taking on a spiritual role for local traditionalistic communities at certain times of the year. Around November a festival of music, books, crafts and other cultural events is held around its celebration.
Can I climb Mount Binga from Chimoio?
Yes, Chimoio is the departure point for Chimanimani National Park and Mount Binga. You can contact a guide from Chimoio or arrange one with the assistance of staff once in Chimanimani, though planning ahead is better. Count on at least two days, as the trek to the peak is a long one.
How do I get to Cachoeira de Amizade?
The waterfalls are in the District of Gondola, not far from Chimoio city, and a relatively short chapa ride will get you there. They are most popular during the hot season, when they are a good place to cool off.
What should I watch out for at Casa Msika?
Casa Msika sits on Lake Chicamba and is nice for a stroll around the dam, but watch out for the ants. The chalets are rustic, and the property has a crocodile enclosure and holds wildlife.
Use this list to sketch your days, check the chapa routes you will need, and start planning your trip to Chimoio.