You come up the hill from the clock tower roundabout, past the bus station and the private hospital on your left, and then take the next left. At the top stands St Michael and All Angels Church, built of brick between 1888 and 1891 by a team of local workmen who had no knowledge of European architecture or building techniques, working from no written plans at all.
Blantyre is Malawi's centre of finance and commerce, and the country's oldest municipality. For a visitor that means a compact historic core, a national museum, and a handful of buildings that carry the story of the city's founding by the Church of Scotland mission.
This guide suits travellers with a day or two in the city, whether you are breaking a journey through the Shire Highlands or basing yourself here to explore the Southern Region.
1. St. Michael and All Angels Church
Described as the first permanent church between the Zambezi and the Nile, this church was designed by David Scott, a Scottish missionary, with the help of local workers. Scott had no architectural or building experience, and there were no written plans; the Church of Scotland would likely have stopped his plans had it known how ambitious they were. He was also writing a language dictionary at the time of building.
This is also where Blantyre was founded, when a local chief gave land to the Scottish missionaries and a slave freed by David Livingstone. The church sits off old Chileka Road, up the hill from the clock tower roundabout, past the bus station and private hospital on your left and then next left.
2. Mandala House
One of the oldest buildings in Blantyre and the oldest building in Malawi, Mandala House is a National Monument on Mackie Rd. It has spacious grounds with a children's playground and houses the La Caverna Art Gallery, with great carvings, and a museum section upstairs.
There is also a popular cafe on the grounds, serving lunches, various coffees, ice-cream and cake. It is open Mon-Fri 8:30AM–4:15PM and on Saturday mornings, so a weekday visit lets you combine the gallery, the museum and a meal in one stop.
3. Museum of Malawi (Chichiri Museum)
The national museum of Malawi, on Kasungu Crescent, roughly midway between Blantyre and Limbe and a 500m walk from Chichiri Shopping Mall. Its artifacts include a royal ceremonial stool from the 16th century and an exhibition of traditional dances, the Gule Wamkulu.
Because it sits between the two towns, it works well as a stop when you are moving between Blantyre and Limbe rather than as a separate trip.
4. Record a Song at the Synod Offices
The Synod Offices of the CCAP Blantyre Mission, on Chileka Road, house a very reasonably priced recording studio. Get yourself first to St Michael and All Angels Church; from the front door face down the hill, and ahead and on your left you will see some offices. Go in, check that they are the Synod Offices, and ask for the recording studios or the music director.
The studio operates daily 8AM-4:30PM. Ask for the music director at the Synod offices and see the prices on offer. It pairs naturally with a visit to the church above it.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at St. Michael and All Angels Church, up the hill from the clock tower roundabout. From the front door, look down the hill for the Synod Offices and arrange a recording session at the studio there, which opens at 8AM.
Afternoon: Head to Mandala House on Mackie Rd for the La Caverna Art Gallery, the museum section upstairs and the grounds. Have lunch at the cafe on the grounds. Note that Mandala House keeps Mon-Fri 8:30AM–4:15PM hours plus Saturday mornings, so plan this day accordingly.
Evening: Finish at the Museum of Malawi (Chichiri Museum) on Kasungu Crescent, between Blantyre and Limbe and a 500m walk from Chichiri Shopping Mall, to see the Gule Wamkulu exhibition and the royal ceremonial stool.
When is the best time of year to visit Blantyre?
The rainy season runs from November to April, with continuing light cold showers locally known as chiperoni from the end of May to July. The dry season is from May to October.
How do I find the recording studio at the mission?
Go first to St Michael and All Angels Church. From the front door, face down the hill; ahead and on your left you will see some offices. Go in, check that they are the Synod Offices, and ask for the recording studios or the music director.
Can I visit Mandala House at the weekend?
Mandala House is open Mon-Fri 8:30AM–4:15PM and on Saturday mornings, so a Saturday morning visit is possible but a Sunday one is not.
Where is the Museum of Malawi in relation to the city?
It is on Kasungu Crescent, midway between Blantyre and Limbe and a 500m walk from Chichiri Shopping Mall.
With the church, the mission offices, Mandala House and the national museum all within reach, you have enough for a full day in Blantyre — start by fixing your dates around the dry season and build the rest from there.