Stand on the ridge at Kyaik Than Lan Pagoda in the late afternoon and the whole of Mawlamyine arranges itself below you: the Salween River, the low hills dotted with pagodas, and the rooftops of a city that was once the first capital of British Burma. It is the view that fixes the place in your memory, and it is a short walk from the centre.
Mawlamyine suits travellers who are happy to move at a slow pace, hire a scooter or take a pick-up, and spend a day on pagodas, markets and river crossings rather than on ticketed attractions. Several of the best-known sights lie outside the city itself, so allow time for the road south.
1. Kyaik Than Lan Pagoda
This hilltop pagoda in the north-eastern part of the city is known for its views and is a good sunset point. It is the pagoda thought to be the "old Moulmein pagoda" of Kipling's poem, and it stands on a ridge surrounded by 34 smaller temples.
Come in the late afternoon and stay for the light. It is the natural first stop for orienting yourself in the city.
2. Mahamuni Paya
Just north of Kyaik Than Lan Pagoda, this pagoda overlooks Mawlamyine and contains a century-old replica of the Buddha at Mahamuni Paya in Mandalay. You can get a closer view of the Buddha here than in Mandalay, women are allowed to get closer, and there are fewer visitors.
Combine it with Kyaik Than Lan Pagoda in the same outing, since the two sit next to each other on the hill. Note that there is no face-washing ceremony here, and the gold cover on the Buddha is not nearly as thick as in Mandalay.
3. Ogre Island (Bilu Island)
Across the river from Mawlamyine, this island is known for cottage industries including weaving, chalkboards, pipes, hats and rubber bands. Small ferry boats leave every 10 minutes from the jetty next to Help Grandmother restaurant, and the ferry ride costs 600 kyat.
The island is spread out over a large area, so a guide is necessary; you can arrange a tour from Breeze Inn Guesthouse at 18,000 kyat per person, or simply arrive on shore and ask around for an English-speaking moto driver. High tide in the mornings means disembarking into watery mud, so wear sandals.
4. The world's largest reclining Buddha (Win Sein Taw Ya)
South of Mawlamyine along the main road, this is probably the most famous sight in Mon State after the golden rock at Kyaiktiyo. It is still the largest reclining Buddha in Myanmar, more than 100 m long, with dozens of monk statues escorting the track from the main road towards it. An older reclining Buddha lies opposite.
Because of its size you will need to walk around to find a good spot for photographs. A one-way pick-up should be around 500 kyat, at least for locals; a taxi is about 4,000 kyat one way or 7,000 kyat return.
5. Pa-Auk Tawya Monastery
An enormous, tranquil meditation centre with friendly people, reached by local pick-up about 10 km south of the main junction. Arrive by 10:00 to walk to the eating hall for an 11:00 meal with hundreds of monks and a few foreigners studying meditation.
It pairs naturally with the reclining Buddha further south on the same road, so plan them as one trip out of the city.
6. Kyauk Ta Lone
This hill west of the main road, before Laung Taw Mu Pha Ya, offers a great view of the surrounding area and even a glimpse of the famous Buddha. It is a good spot for sunsets, and there are two tops, only one of which is allowed for women.
The climb takes about 20–30 minutes. There is an old, open shed on top where you can stay overnight, though a mosquito net, mattress and sleeping bag are recommended.
7. Shwe Nat Taung Pagoda
On top of a hill about 4.8 km from the main junction, this pagoda offers picturesque views and is ideal for photographs.
The best way to explore the southern area and its sights is by scooter or motorbike, so this fits easily into a day of riding south from the city.
8. Nwa-La-Boh Pagoda
The main attraction here is a golden rock formation, similar to Kyaiktiyo but on a smaller scale. Its shape and balance, three stones on top of each other, make it equally impressive, and in low season on a work day there is a fair chance you will be the only person there.
To get there, take pick-ups from the roundabout south of the bridge; locals pay about 500 kyat one-way, though tourists may be charged 1,000 kyat, and taxis offer the trip for 8,000 kyat return, negotiable to 5,000 kyat. Near Kyaun Ka Village, take the concrete track to the right and hike up and down, at least 1.5–2.5 hours each way, so bring enough water, good shoes and sunblock. There is a 500 kyat camera fee.
9. Gaung Say Kyun / Shampoo Island with the Sandawshin Pagoda
A small island at the river with its own pagoda and a nice river view, reached from 50 m to the right of the bridge. The boat costs 3,000 kyat, but it is cheaper if you wait for more people to share it.
It is an easy add-on to a morning on the waterfront, and short enough to combine with the ferry crossing to Ogre Island.
10. Kan Gyi Lake and Pagoda
About 26 km south of Mawlamyine and just south of Mudon, this lake and pagoda make a quiet stop on the road south. The lake can easily be circumnavigated on foot.
Note that women are not allowed to swim here, and local belief holds that something terrible will happen otherwise. Do not feel tempted to test the lake's depth.
11. Thanlwin Bridge (Mawlamyine)
This 2-mile long bridge, built in 2005, is the second longest in Myanmar and the most prominent landmark in the area, carrying road and rail over the Thanlwin River.
It is worth a look as you pass, and it is the crossing point between Mawlamyine and Mottama.
12. The colonial churches
Mawlamyine retains a group of churches from its colonial period: St Patrick's (1829), St Matthew's (1887), First Baptist (1827) and Holy Family (1954).
St Matthew's is abandoned and locked, so plan to see it from the outside. The churches sit within the city and can be visited on foot between other stops.
13. Hindu Temple
On the hill east of the main road, before Laung Taw Mu Pha Ya, this temple is a short stop on the southern route.
It is close to Kyauk Ta Lone on the opposite hill, so the two can be visited in the same afternoon.
14. Rent a scooter or motorbike
Renting a scooter or motorbike is the best way to explore the surrounding area, especially the south, where most of the outlying sights lie.
If you would rather not ride, take a boat up or down the river instead for a different view of the city and the Salween.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start on the hill in the north-eastern part of the city at Kyaik Than Lan Pagoda, then walk the short distance north to Mahamuni Paya for a closer look at the Buddha. Continue down to the river and take the short boat trip to Gaung Say Kyun / Shampoo Island with the Sandawshin Pagoda, or catch the ferry from the jetty next to Help Grandmother restaurant to Ogre Island (Bilu Island) if you have arranged a guide and a moto driver.
Afternoon: Head south by scooter, motorbike or pick-up. Stop at Shwe Nat Taung Pagoda for the views, then continue to Pa-Auk Tawya Monastery, arriving by 10:00 if you want to join the 11:00 meal, and on to the world's largest reclining Buddha (Win Sein Taw Ya) to walk the track past the monk statues and around the figure itself.
Evening: Return to the city and climb Kyauk Ta Lone for sunset, then finish the day back at Kyaik Than Lan Pagoda if you would rather take in the view from the ridge above the river.
When is the best time of year to visit Mawlamyine?
Mawlamyine has a lengthy dry season between mid-November and mid-April and an extremely wet season between mid-April and mid-November. Between June and August, when the westerly winds are strongest, the city averages around 1,100 millimetres of rain per month.
How do I get around the sights outside the city?
Renting a scooter or motorbike is the best way to explore the surrounding area, especially the south. Pick-ups also run from the roundabout south of the bridge and along the main road, and taxis can be hired for return trips.
How do I reach Ogre Island?
Small ferry boats leave every 10 minutes from the jetty next to Help Grandmother restaurant, and the ride costs 600 kyat. A guide is necessary once you are there, as the island is spread out over a large area; tours can be arranged from Breeze Inn Guesthouse at 18,000 kyat per person, or you can ask around on shore for an English-speaking moto driver.
Can I visit the reclining Buddha and Pa-Auk Tawya Monastery in one trip?
Yes. The world's largest reclining Buddha (Win Sein Taw Ya) lies 7.8 km south of the Pa-Auk Tawya Monastery along the main road, so the two are easily combined. A one-way pick-up to the Buddha should be around 500 kyat, and a taxi is about 4,000 kyat one way or 7,000 kyat return.
Decide how many days you can give to the city and the road south, then start planning your trip around the dry season and the pagodas on the ridge.