Things to Do in Mahajanga: Baobabs and Port Life

Mahajanga, Madagascar

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Stand at the foot of the African baobab near the coast and the trunk keeps going: a circumference of 21 metres, the largest specimen in Madagascar, and the symbol of the city. Walk around it seven times, as local custom asks, and you have begun your visit the way Mahajanga expects.

Mahajanga suits travellers who want a working Indian Ocean port rather than a resort: a place of mosques and stone buildings, a sizable Muslim population, a cathedral, and a river mouth opening onto Bombetoka Bay. It rewards slow days and long walks, not tick-box sightseeing.

This guide covers the sights and experiences the sources support, then strings the best of them into a single day. The dry season, from mid-April to November, is the practical window; the wet season brings humid, rainy weather and the risk of cyclones.

Top things to do in Mahajanga

1. The African baobab

The African baobab near the coast is the largest specimen in Madagascar, with a circumference of 21 metres, and it serves as the symbol of the city. Its age is unknown, though it is usually said to be 700 to 800 years old, and it was once used as a site of important meetings and, in the 19th century, as a site for executions.

Custom holds that anyone who visits it must walk around it seven times, to honour the Malagasy ancestors. Go early or late in the day for cooler walking, and treat the circuit as the proper way to start or end a day in the city.

2. The port and marine terminal

Mahajanga is a seaport, the second most important in Madagascar after Toamasina. The marine terminal accommodates containerships and small general cargo freighters, but because of limited water depth at the wharf only small ships can call there; deeper-draft vessels anchor offshore and transfer cargo to and from barges.

Come to watch the working harbour rather than to tour it, and note that the largest and most valuable containerised export is frozen shrimp. The bulkhead was damaged by severe storms in December 2006, which washed backfill out from under the terminal's paving blocks and reduced the storage space available, so expect ongoing repair and less efficient operations.

3. The Betsiboka River and Bombetoka Bay

Mahajanga sits on the Betsiboka River, which leads to Bombetoka Bay. This is the water that made the town: the river mouth was where a community of roughly 200 Muslim traders from the Indian subcontinent had formed by the 1780s, according to the French traveller Dumaine.

Pair a walk along the waterfront with the baobab, which stands near the coast, and time it for the drier months when the weather is sunny and practically bone-dry.

4. The old town's stone buildings and mosques

An English captain described Mahajanga in 1764 as a bustling, cosmopolitan port, built "after the Indian fashion," containing many stone buildings and mosques, and inhabited by Muslims and others from Surate, Johana, Mosembeck and the Commoro islands. The Sakalava rulers allowed Muslims to practise their religion freely within the city.

Walk with that description in mind and look for the fabric of a port that traded across the southwestern Indian Ocean. The city still has a sizable Muslim population, so dress and behave accordingly around places of worship.

5. Cathedral of the Holy Heart of Mary

Mahajanga is the seat of a Roman Catholic Diocese, and the Cathedral of the Holy Heart of Mary is its seat. It is one of the named landmarks of the city and a useful anchor for a walk through the centre.

Combine it with a wander through the surrounding streets rather than making a special journey, and check locally before entering during services.

6. The Indian community's trading heritage

In the 1780s a community of roughly 200 Muslim traders from the Indian subcontinent had formed at Mahajanga at the mouth of the Betsiboka River. Initial arrivals were mainly Muslim Khojas, Ismailis and Da'udi Bohras, with some Hindus settling later, and the etymology of the word "Mahajanga" may be Indic.

This history is read in the streets and shops of the town rather than in a single building. Following it gives context to the mosques and stone houses you pass.

7. The Sakalava and Volamena story

By the early eighteenth century, Andriamandisoarivo founded a new Sakalava dynasty in the north which he named Volamena, meaning red money or gold, and his descendants were known as the Zafibolamena. His kingdom contained the port of Mazalagem Nova, or Massaliege, as well as the new ports of Boina and Mahajanga.

Sakalava kings and queens incorporated Islamic beliefs and rituals into their practice of divine kingship, and some converted to Islam by the early nineteenth century. Keep this in mind as you move between the city's mosques and its older quarters.

8. The airfield

The city has an airfield which the British used to station Shackleton aircraft to support the Beira Patrol from May 1966. There is also an international airport with regional flights to Mayotte, and vessels of Acadie connect the town with Mutsamudu and Moroni.

This is a point of arrival and departure rather than a sight, but it explains how the city connects to the Comoros and the wider region. Confirm schedules locally before you plan around them.

9. Jacques Rabemananjara stadium

The stadium Jacques Rabemananjara, with its 8,000 places, is the fifth largest in the country. Fosa Juniors FC is the local football club, and ASCB Boeny is the local basketball club, Malagasy champions in 2017.

If a match falls during your stay, it is an easy way to spend an evening with local crowds. Check fixtures locally, as none are published in the sources.

10. The University of Mahajanga

The University of Mahajanga is located on the Ambondrona campus. It is part of the everyday fabric of the city rather than a visitor attraction.

Note it as a landmark when orienting yourself, and treat the campus as a working institution rather than a place to tour.

11. Collège français Françoise-Dolto

Collège français Françoise-Dolto is one of the French schools in the city. Like the university, it is a named institution rather than a sight.

It is useful mainly for orientation and for understanding the city's French-speaking community.

12. The dry-season waterfront

Mahajanga has a tropical savanna climate with two distinct seasons: a humid, rainy wet season from November to mid-April, and a sunny, less humid and practically bone-dry dry season for the remaining six and a half months. Cyclones can occur during the wet season, producing very heavy rain and extensive erosion.

Plan waterfront walks and the baobab circuit for the dry season, and build slack into any wet-season itinerary.

If you only have one day

Morning: Start at the African baobab near the coast, walking around it seven times as custom asks, before the heat builds. Then walk the waterfront where the Betsiboka River meets Bombetoka Bay.

Afternoon: Move into the centre to see the stone buildings and mosques of the old port town, and the Cathedral of the Holy Heart of Mary. If you want a longer stop, watch the working port and marine terminal, where small ships call at the wharf and deeper-draft vessels anchor offshore.

Evening: If a fixture is on, take in a match at the stadium Jacques Rabemananjara. Otherwise return to the waterfront for the close of the day.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to visit Mahajanga?

The dry season, from mid-April to November, is sunny, less humid and practically bone-dry. The wet season runs from November to mid-April and is humid and rainy, with cyclones possible.

How do I get to Mahajanga?

There is an international airport with regional flights to Mayotte, and vessels of Acadie connect the town with Mutsamudu and Moroni. Mahajanga is also a seaport, the second most important in Madagascar after Toamasina.

What is the one thing I should not miss?

The African baobab near the coast, the largest specimen in Madagascar and the symbol of the city. Custom asks that anyone who visits it walks around it seven times.

Is Mahajanga a good base for the Comoros?

Regional flights to Mayotte and the Acadie vessels to Mutsamudu and Moroni make it a practical link to the Comoros. Confirm current schedules locally before you commit to a connection.

Start with the baobab, then let the port and the old town fill the rest of your days.

Sources

  1. Mahajanga
  2. Wikivoyage: Mahajanga

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