Stand on the terrace of the Rova at the top of Analamanga hill and the whole city opens below you: pastel terracotta walls, the green of rice paddies threaded through the valleys, and the staircases that link the middle town to the market district. That view is the reason many travellers give Antananarivo more than a single night.
The city suits travellers who like their capitals layered, who are happy to walk uphill for a panorama and to spend an afternoon on architecture, markets and museums rather than on resorts. It also works well as a first or last stop on a wider Madagascar trip, since several of the wildlife attractions below sit on the road out of town.
1. Rova (Queen's palace)
The royal palace complex and former residence of the rulers of the Merina Kingdom sits on the hill above the city. Be aware that it was severely fire damaged by suspected arson in the late 1990s, and only the stone shell remains, together with some outbuildings, statues and a chapel that was rebuilt with American money. Guides, often university students with good English or French, can explain the site's features in return for a gratuity.
The main reward is the panoramic view over the city. It is a cab ride or a very long walk from the hotel district. While walking up the hill you may be told by local guides that the Rova is shut for the day and urged to follow them elsewhere; the likelihood is that the gate will be open as normal.
2. Prime Minister's Palace (Andafiavaratra Palace)
Near the Rova, this was the palace of the prime minister during the reigns of the last queens and is now a museum. The exhibition displays precious items saved from the fire of the Rova in 1995, including the red jacket of Radama I, the royal coral jewels, various royal portraits and the diadem of the last queen.
It is open Saturday to Thursday, 10:00-17:00, and pairs naturally with the Rova since the two are close together. Entry is 3,000 Ar.
3. Lemurs' Park
On Route Nationale n°1 at PK 22, Katsaoka Imerintsiatosika, on the Route d'Ampefy, this conservation park was established by a French-Japanese charity. It hosts mostly lemurs rescued from illegal captivity or attempted smuggling, and aims to reintroduce part of its animals into their natural habitat. Over 6,000 trees have been planted across the 5-hectare site, and apart from lemurs it has chameleons, turtles and several species of birds. It gives you a chance to see a variety of lemurs at close range, which would be much harder in a national park or a Western zoo.
It is open 09:00-17:00 with last admittance at 16:00, and taking a guide is compulsory. Carry local cash, as cards are not accepted, and hire a taxi for the round trip because there is no public transport back — taxi-brousses into town are mostly full when they pass. The park also offers a pick-up service in town. Entry is 70,000 Ar per person including the guide.
4. Croc Farm
About a 30-minute drive outside Antananarivo and roughly 10 minutes by car from Ivato Airport, the Croc Farm sits on more than 3 hectares of Madagascar's plants, trees and flowers. You can watch the crocodiles and around 80 other species of animals, including turtles, snakes, lemurs and the smallest chameleon in the world. The best time to see crocodiles in action is during feeding time.
It is open 09:00-17:00 and entry is 25,000 Ar. The on-site restaurant prepares several crocodile meat dishes, the favourite being the "Croc burger", and the shop sells belts and bags from the park's crocodile leather operation alongside Malagasy crafts. It is a sensible stop to combine with an airport transfer.
5. Botanical and Zoological Garden of Tsimbazaza
This zoo and herbarium also has animal skeletons on display. It is open 09:00-17:00. Allow a relaxed half-day if you want to see both the living collection and the herbarium.
6. Cathedrale catholique d Andohalo
On Lalana Justin Rajoro, this cathedral was built in 1890 and has a big statue of Mary. It is a short, quiet stop that fits easily into a walk through the upper parts of the city.
7. Museum of Art and Archaeology (Le Musée d'Art et d'Archéologie)
On the campus of the University of Antananarivo, this museum is described as kind of small. It is open Tuesday to Saturday, 10:00-16:00. Treat it as a focused visit rather than a full afternoon.
8. Independence Avenue (Avenue de L'Independence)
This is a 1-kilometre lane and main shopping street with several hotels, restaurants and offices. Nearby there is a national monument that commemorates the events of the Malagasy Uprising against French colonial rule in 1947.
It works best as a stroll combined with a meal, since the street itself is where many of the city's hotels and restaurants are found.
9. Jean Be Tours
Based at Lot IVD 63 Ter AA, Ambohibahiny, Ankaraobato, Jean Be Tours is a concierge travel guide service. The owner, Jean, is an experienced tour guide for Madagascar who speaks English and French. On individually organised trips you can meet local people, take photographs and collect souvenirs and memories.
Contact details are +261 34 17 478 38 and marivelo.trekk@yahoo.fr.
10. Mada-Liberté Off Road Motorcycle Tours in Madagascar
This operator runs 4WD and off-road motorcycle tours. It suits travellers who want to see more of the country under their own power rather than from a car window.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Rova (Queen's palace) on Analamanga hill, walking up if you are able, and take in the panoramic views over the city. Continue to the Prime Minister's Palace (Andafiavaratra Palace) nearby, which opens at 10:00, to see the items saved from the 1995 fire.
Afternoon: Head down to Independence Avenue (Avenue de L'Independence) for lunch and a walk along the shopping street, then look at the nearby national monument commemorating the Malagasy Uprising of 1947. If time allows, add the Museum of Art and Archaeology on the University of Antananarivo campus, open until 16:00.
Evening: Return to the Independence Avenue area for dinner, where several of the city's hotels and restaurants are located.
Is the Rova open, and what will I actually see there?
The gate is likely to be open as normal even if local guides tell you otherwise on the walk up. The palace was severely fire damaged by suspected arson in the late 1990s, so only the stone shell remains, along with some outbuildings, statues and a chapel rebuilt with American money. The site offers good panoramic views of the city.
How do I get to Lemurs' Park and back?
Hire a taxi for the round trip. There is no public transport back from the park, as taxi-brousses into town are mostly full when they pass, and the park also offers a pick-up service in town. Carry local cash, since cards are not accepted, and remember that a guide is compulsory.
When is the best time to visit Croc Farm?
The best time to see crocodiles in action is during feeding time. The farm is open 09:00-17:00, and its location about 10 minutes by car from Ivato Airport makes it easy to fit around a flight.
What can I see at the Prime Minister's Palace?
The museum displays precious items saved from the fire of the Rova in 1995, including the red jacket of Radama I, the royal coral jewels, various royal portraits and the diadem of the last queen. It is open Saturday to Thursday, 10:00-17:00.
Decide how many days you can give the city, check the opening days for the Rova and the Prime Minister's Palace, and start building your Antananarivo itinerary around them.