Stand on the terrace above Plage Quemado in the late afternoon and the whole shape of Al Hoceima becomes clear: white and blue houses stepping down to a bay of turquoise water, with the high limestone ridges of the Rif rising behind the town. It is a small city on the Mediterranean coast of northern Morocco, and much of its daily life still turns towards the sea.
Al Hoceima suits travellers who want beaches and mountain scenery in the same trip, and who are happy to build a day around swimming, walking and eating fish rather than around monuments. The town is compact and its best-known sights sit close to the water, while the wilder coastline and the offshore islands lie within reach.
This guide covers the beaches, the national park, the nearby Spanish-held islands and the practical questions that come up when planning a visit, including when to go and how to arrive.
Top things to do in Al Hoceima
1. Plage Quemado
Plage Quemado is the town beach and the most convenient place to swim, sitting directly beneath the Mohammed V hotel. It is also where fishers bring in their catch, so the beach works as both a bathing spot and a working part of the harbour. General Sanjurjo and his troops landed here in 1925.
Come in the late afternoon, when the light on the bay is at its best and the fishing boats are returning. The Mohammed V hotel above the beach has a tennis court, restaurant, cocktail bar and nightclub if you want to stay in the area after swimming.
2. Al Hoceima National Park
The national park is characterised by high limestone cliffs and a wild rocky coast, and it is the main reason to leave the town beach behind. The scenery here is rugged rather than sandy, with the sea breaking against rock.
Combine a visit with a day along the coast rather than treating it as a quick stop, and wear shoes suitable for rocky ground. The park is listed among the nearby sights, so plan it as a half-day or full-day outing from the city.
3. Islas Alhucemas
The Islas Alhucemas are an island group administered by Spain, lying off the coast and visible from the Al Hoceima area. The city takes its name from these islands: Alhucemas means "lavender islands" in Spanish, and Al Hoceima is an Arabised form of that name.
They are a viewpoint rather than a place you can expect to land on, so treat them as part of the sea view from the coast. Look for them on a clear day when you are out along the shore or in the national park.
4. Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera
Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera is a peninsula populated only by Spanish military personnel. Like the Islas Alhucemas, it is a Spanish-held feature off this stretch of coast and is named among the beaches and nearby sights of the Al Hoceima area.
There is no civilian access, so plan to see it from a distance as part of the coastal scenery. It pairs naturally with a day spent along the wilder coast towards the national park.
5. Asfiha beach
Asfiha, nearby, is described as a quieter beach than the town beach. If Plage Quemado feels busy, this is the alternative for a calmer swim.
Go when you want a slower day rather than combining it with sightseeing, and take what you need with you since it is away from the centre.
6. Torres de Alcala beach
Torres de Alcala is considered one of Al Hoceima's beaches, though it lies about 60 km from town. It is one of the pristine sandy beaches with turquoise water that the area is known for.
Because of the distance, treat it as a full-day trip and set off early. Pair it with Kalah Iris, which lies in the same direction.
7. Kalah Iris beach
Kalah Iris is the other outlying beach counted among Al Hoceima's own, also around 60 km from the city. Like Torres de Alcala, it offers the sandy, turquoise-water setting that defines the coast here.
Visit it on the same outing as Torres de Alcala rather than as a separate journey, and check your transport arrangements before you go, as these beaches are well outside town.
8. Cala Iris
Cala Iris is named among the area's pristine sandy beaches with turquoise water, alongside Quemado and Tala Youssef. It is one of the coastal spots that give Al Hoceima its reputation as a beach destination.
Build it into a beach-focused day and bring supplies, since it sits away from the city centre.
9. Tala Youssef
Tala Youssef is the other beach named in the same group of sandy, turquoise-water spots around Al Hoceima. It is a straightforward choice for a swimming day in the area.
Combine it with Cala Iris if you are touring the beaches, and go in the warmer months when the sea is at its most inviting.
10. The town's white and blue streets
Al Hoceima's houses were traditionally painted white and blue, colours taken to symbolise the sea and sky and regarded as the city's official colours. In 2007 the mayor stated that all new houses would be painted white and blue to restore that traditional appearance.
Simply walking the streets is the way to see this, and it costs nothing. Look for the older small houses from the period when most residents painted in these two colours, before a wider range of colours came in as economic conditions improved.
11. The Spanish colonial buildings
The first schools built under Spanish rule, a college and an elementary school, still exist today, along with a Spanish Catholic church. They are the visible remains of the period when the town was developed by Spain and named Villa Sanjurjo.
These are working buildings rather than visitor attractions, so view them from the outside as you walk the centre. They sit well alongside a wander through the white and blue streets.
12. The fishing harbour and the catch
Fishing, along with tourism, is the basis of the city's income, and the town beach is where fishers bring in their catch. Watching the boats and the landing is one of the most characteristic things to do here.
Time it for the return of the boats rather than the middle of the day, and combine it with a swim at Plage Quemado, which is the same stretch of shore.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start with a walk through the white and blue streets of the centre, looking out for the Spanish colonial school buildings and church as you go. Then head down to Plage Quemado for a swim while the bay is still quiet.
Afternoon: Spend the afternoon along the coast in Al Hoceima National Park, where the high limestone cliffs and rocky shore give you the other side of the area's scenery. If you would rather stay closer to town, take the short trip to the quieter beach at Asfiha instead.
Evening: Return to Plage Quemado as the fishing boats come in, then stay in the area for dinner. The Mohammed V hotel above the beach has a restaurant, cocktail bar and nightclub if you want to finish the day without going far.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to visit Al Hoceima?
The most popular times to visit are July, August and September. Summer runs from the end of June to September, July is the driest month, and August is the warmest, with the highest average sea temperature of the year. January is the coolest month, and November is the rainiest.
How do you get to Al Hoceima?
The city is served by Cherif Al Idrissi Airport.
Can you visit the Islas Alhucemas or Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera?
No. The Islas Alhucemas are administered by Spain, and Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera is populated only by Spanish military personnel. Both are features to look out at from the coast rather than places to land.
Are there quieter beaches than the town beach?
Yes. Asfiha, nearby, is a quieter beach than Plage Quemado. Torres de Alcala and Kalah Iris are also considered Al Hoceima beaches, though they lie about 60 km from town.
Decide on your dates, check what the sea and the weather are doing in the months you have in mind, and the rest of an Al Hoceima trip falls into place around the coast.