Stand on the stretch of the old city wall on the sea-facing side of the medina and you can look down on the rooftops of the Old City on one side and out across the water on the other. The street plan beneath you was laid down in the Roman period, when the walls went up as protection against attacks from the interior of Tripolitania, and the three gates that once controlled access — Bab Zanata in the west, Bab Hawara in the southeast and Bab Al-Bahr in the north wall — still mark the old approaches.
Tripoli suits travellers who are comfortable exploring a city on foot at their own pace, who care more about architecture, markets and museums than about nightlife, and who are willing to plan around the fact that the city has been through conflict. The Old City and the museum can absorb hours of your time, and there are beaches within driving distance if you want a slower day.
This guide covers the sights and experiences in the city itself, with a one-day plan that strings the best of them together and answers to the questions travellers ask most often.
Top things to do in Tripoli
1. Red Castle Museum
The national museum of Libya, also known as Assaraya Alhamra Museum, occupies a vast palace complex with numerous courtyards on the outskirts of the medina. It dominates the city skyline, and its collection covers 5,000 years of history, including artefacts from the country's Roman and Greek periods and treasures from the World Heritage sites at Leptis Magna and Sabratha.
Allow plenty of time: this is the museum in the city for hours of exploration. Classical statues and fountains from the Ottoman period are scattered around the castle itself, so the courtyards are worth as much attention as the galleries.
2. The Old City walls and gates
The city walls are still standing and can be climbed for good views of the city. The basic street plan of the medina was laid down in the Roman period, and the walls are considered well planned, possibly better than modern street plans. In the 8th century a wall on the sea-facing side of the city was added.
Three gates provided access to the old town: Bab Zanata in the west, Bab Hawara in the southeast and Bab Al-Bahr in the north wall. Walk the walls early or late in the day, and use the gates as your entry points into the medina rather than doubling back.
3. The Bazaar and the medina markets
The Bazaar is known for its traditional ware, and fine jewellery and clothes can be found in the local markets. This is the commercial heart of the Old City and the natural place to combine a walk on the walls with shopping.
Pair a market visit with the surrounding medina streets. More and more palaces, especially from the Karamanli period, are being restored and opened to the public, so it is worth checking what is currently accessible while you are in the area.
4. Arch of Marcus Aurelius
The only surviving Roman monument in the city. It is a single, compact sight rather than a complex, which makes it easy to fold into a walk through the Old City.
Combine it with the medina and the Bazaar, since all three sit within the same area of the old town.
5. Gurgi Mosque
A mosque built in 1834, and one of the named landmarks of the Old City. It is a short, focused stop that fits naturally into a medina walk.
Visit as part of the same circuit as the Karamanli Mosque and the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, all of which are in the Old City.
6. Karamanli Mosque
Another of the Old City's named mosques, and a companion stop to the Gurgi Mosque. The Karamanli name recurs across the city, including at the Karamanly House Museum.
Group it with the other Old City sights rather than making a separate trip.
7. Karamanly House Museum
A historic house and museum in the Old City, associated with the Karamanli dynasty, which ruled from 1711 to 1835 in Ottoman Tripolitania. It gives you the residential side of the city's history, in contrast to the national collection at the Red Castle Museum.
It sits in the Old City, so pair it with the mosques and the Arch of Marcus Aurelius on the same walk.
8. Museum of Libya
A museum of Libyan culture housed in the former Royal Palace of Tripoli. It complements the Red Castle Museum by focusing on culture rather than on the archaeological sweep of the national collection.
If you are short on time, choose between this and the Red Castle Museum rather than trying to do both properly in one day.
9. Martyrs' Square
Formerly known as Green Square, this is a popular gathering place and it gives some good views of the old city walls. Some of the shopping streets also start here.
There is nothing in the square itself to see, so treat it as a starting point for the shopping streets and a viewpoint for the walls. Be aware that the square is often used for demonstrations and as a place for motorcycle enthusiasts to show off.
10. Jamal Abdul Nasser Mosque, Algeria Square
The former colonial Tripoli Cathedral, built in 1930 and converted into a mosque in 1970. It stands on Algeria Square and is a clear illustration of the city's layered architectural history.
It is a quick stop, best combined with a walk through the surrounding streets rather than a trip of its own.
11. Anglican Church of Christ The King
A named church in the city and one of the quieter stops on this list. It is worth including if you are interested in the city's religious architecture beyond the mosques.
Fit it into a wider walk rather than making it the purpose of an outing.
12. Darghouth Turkish Bath
A Turkish bathhouse, or hammam, established in 1670. It is one of the few experiences on this list that is about doing rather than looking, and it offers a break from walking the medina.
Plan it as a deliberate pause in your day rather than squeezing it between two other sights.
13. Beaches within driving distance
There are wonderful beaches within driving distance of the city. Before the conflicts of 2011, Tripoli had a reputation as a good place to escape from the pressures of modern life, and the coast is where that reputation was earned.
This requires a car and a half-day at least, so keep it for a day when you are not trying to cover the Old City as well.
14. Gyms and fitness
There are a few gyms scattered throughout Tripoli. In the centre, off Omar Mukhtar Street, you will find fairly comprehensive free weights and aerobics classes. The Sultan Gym off Gorgi Road has an extensive free weights section and a women-only section.
All the 5-star hotels in the city, including the Radisson Blu and the Corinthia, have gyms with membership options ranging from 200-300 dinar per month.
15. The nightclub in the central tower complex
Adventurous types might try the nightclub on the 3rd floor of the 3rd building in the central tower complex. Like any proper nightclub it only opens at 23:00.
Expect a non-alcoholic beer to cost a small fortune, and, as in Italy and Paris, a charge to sit at a table.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Red Castle Museum, the national museum of Libya, on the outskirts of the medina. It covers 5,000 years of history across a vast palace complex with numerous courtyards, so give it the first and largest block of your day. Look for the classical statues and Ottoman-period fountains scattered around the castle as you move between galleries.
Afternoon. Move into the Old City. Climb the city walls for views over the city, entering through one of the gates — Bab Zanata in the west, Bab Hawara in the southeast or Bab Al-Bahr in the north wall. Then work through the medina on foot: the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, the only surviving Roman monument in the city; the Gurgi Mosque, built in 1834; the Karamanli Mosque; and the Karamanly House Museum, tied to the Karamanli dynasty that ruled from 1711 to 1835. Finish the afternoon in the Bazaar, where fine jewellery and clothes can be found in the local markets.
Evening. Walk to Martyrs' Square, formerly Green Square, for views of the old city walls and to pick up one of the shopping streets that start there. Remember there is nothing in the square itself to see, so use it as a viewpoint and a starting point rather than a destination. If you still have energy, the nightclub on the 3rd floor of the 3rd building in the central tower complex opens at 23:00.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to go out and about in Tripoli?
The source material notes that the city had a reputation as a good place to escape from the pressures of modern life prior to the conflicts of 2011, and suggests it might pay to wait until things have returned to some sort of normality before venturing out and about. Plan accordingly and check current conditions before you travel.
How much time should I give the Old City and the museum?
The Old City and the museum are described as good for hours of exploration. The Red Castle Museum in particular covers 5,000 years of history in a vast palace complex, so it is not a quick stop.
Can I get to a beach from the city?
Yes. There are wonderful beaches within driving distance, which makes them a realistic option if you have a car and a spare half-day.
Where can I use a gym in Tripoli?
There are a few gyms scattered throughout the city. In the centre, off Omar Mukhtar Street, there are fairly comprehensive free weights and aerobics classes, and the Sultan Gym off Gorgi Road has an extensive free weights section plus a women-only section. All the 5-star hotels in the city, including the Radisson Blu and the Corinthia, have gyms with membership options ranging from 200-300 dinar per month.
Decide how much of your time belongs to the Red Castle Museum and the Old City, check the current situation on the ground, and start laying out your days.