Stand on the observation deck of Bayterek Tower and the city arranges itself below you: the white columns of the ministries, the gold dome of a mosque, the flat brown steppe running to every horizon. Astana is a capital built to be looked at, and much of the looking is best done from above or from the wide avenue that stitches the left bank together.
The city suits travellers who are curious about architecture and about how a place reinvents itself. It rewards a day of walking between monuments and museums, and it rewards a longer stay with palaces, mosques and a miniature version of the whole country.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, ordered so the strongest come first, with a one-day plan at the end.
Top things to do in Astana
1. Bayterek Tower
Bayterek Tower is the futuristic landmark locals nickname Chupa Chups for its resemblance to a giant lollipop. The building offers a great view of the city, along with an art gallery, an aquarium and a restaurant, and there is a pleasant bar on one of the upper levels.
In the centre of the top sphere, President Nazarbayev made a golden palm print where visitors may put their own hands. At busier times the queue for the palm can be very long, so plan around it. Nazarbayev designed the tower himself, and the original sketches can be seen in the national museum.
2. National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan
The national museum moved to this location in 2014 and is huge and very modern, with interactive displays in English, Russian and Kazakh. The displays take you through the history of Kazakhstan up to the modern day, and the building also hosts an art gallery with many temporary exhibitions.
One highlight is on the ground floor, where an animated diorama of the planned city emerges out of the floor on the hour; get there early as it can get crowded. The golden hall display has a model of the golden man costume and other golden objects found around Kazakhstan, and you should not miss Nazarbayev's rough sketches for the presidential palace and Bayterek. Main bus routes stop outside.
3. Palace of Peace and Reconciliation
Completed in 2006 after a design by British architect Norman Foster, this building is also known as the pyramid. It holds a summit of all religions of the world every two to three years, and it offers a great view of the city, two art galleries, an archaeological and ethnographic museum, an opera hall and a cafe.
The landscaping of the park rises up to cover the lower levels, though these are not in fact basements. It sits on Tauelsizdik Ave, close to the Kazakh Eli monument, so the two are easy to combine.
4. Khazret Sultan Mosque
Completed in 2012, this is the largest mosque in Kazakhstan and the second largest in Central Asia. It is a vast, calm, soaring space, and it is visible for miles around.
It stands next to the National Museum on Tauelsizdik Ave, which makes it a natural pairing with a museum visit. Tourists should avoid Friday afternoon prayers.
5. Grand Mosque of Astana
Built in 2022, this is the largest mosque in Central Asia, and the majestic building is visible from quite a distance. Entry is free.
It stands on Prospekt Mangilik Yel, so it fits easily into a walk along the main avenue.
6. Kazakh Eli monument
This monument stands near the Pyramid and has a small statue of the first president of the Republic of Kazakhstan. It is about 100 metres tall and carries a mythical golden bird, Samryk, on top.
It is made from white marble and surrounded by very beautiful fountains, which makes it worth lingering beside rather than simply photographing. It sits next to the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation.
7. Ak Orda presidential palace
This is the presidential residence, inaugurated in 2004, on the left bank of the river. It looks spectacular during nighttime when lit up.
Come after dark if you can, and combine it with the nearby palaces and towers along the avenue.
8. Atameken Map of Kazakhstan
This outdoor museum gives you an overview of the entire country in miniature, with more than 200 mock-up pieces creating Kazakh cities and historical memorials. There is a covered section focusing on the newer constructions within the city.
During the summer months there are normally English-speaking guides available if you wish to learn a little about the models. Taking photos sometimes requires an extra payment, so you may want to keep cameras in your bag until you pass out of sight of the front ticket office.
9. The Military Historical Museum of the Armed Forces of the Republic of Kazakhstan
Built like a yurt with a dome resembling a mosque, this museum contains exhibitions about the history of the military of Kazakhstan. There is a large focus on the Great Patriotic War and a collection of memorabilia related to Nazarbayev.
Do not miss the upper levels, which have some excellent war paintings, or the Soviet-style paintings as you enter the building. The museum is surrounded by busy roads, but there are several underpasses to get you there. Entry is free.
10. Palace of Independence
Many political and business gatherings are held in this palace. The summit of the OSCE took place here in December 2010, and summits concerning ecology were held in October 2010 and 2011.
It sits on Tauelsizdik Ave, within the same cluster as the mosque and the national museum.
11. Shabyt palace
Shabyt is a palace of arts situated to the right of the Kazakh Eli monument. It is a dish-like building made from glass.
Its position beside the monument and the Pyramid makes it an easy addition to the same walk.
12. Nur-Astana Mosque
This is the second largest mosque in Astana and the third largest in Central Asia, completed in 2008. The dome area contains symbols from all over the world, including the Statue of Liberty, a fragment of the Great Wall of China, the Doriphor statue and the Parthenon.
It stands on Qabanbay Batyr Ave, in the same stretch as the KazMunayGas Palace and The Triumph of Astana.
13. Triumphal arch
A modern triumphal arch, though mimicking the style of a Roman one, on Yengbekshiler Street.
It is a short stop rather than a long visit, and works well as part of a walk through the older streets.
14. Expo 2017 buildings
This is the group of modern buildings where the Expo 2017 world exhibition was held, focused on alternative energy sources. The central building, which was Kazakhstan's pavilion, is nowadays a museum dedicated to that topic.
Buses stop at Fermata bus Nazarbayev University, which is the practical way to reach the site.
15. Circus fountain and Giant lizards sculptures
The Circus fountain is a big fountain decorated with circus characters, next to the circus circular building. The Giant lizards sculptures sit at the corner of a park on Turan ave, next to the shopping centre.
These are small, light-hearted stops. You can sit on the lizards and take funny photos.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at Bayterek Tower for the view over the city, then walk the short distance to the National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan. Time your arrival for the hour so you catch the animated diorama on the ground floor, and allow enough time for the golden hall.
Afternoon. Continue along Tauelsizdik Ave to the Khazret Sultan Mosque, then the Kazakh Eli monument and the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, with the Shabyt palace and the Palace of Independence in the same cluster. If you have energy left, take a bus out to the Expo 2017 buildings.
Evening. Return to the left bank to see the Ak Orda presidential palace lit up after dark, then finish at Bayterek Tower, where there is a pleasant bar on one of the upper levels.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of year to visit Astana?
Astana has an extreme continental climate with warm summers and long, very cold, dry winters. Summer temperatures sometimes reach 35 °C, while −30 to −35 °C is common from mid-December to early March. The river usually remains frozen from the second week of November until early April.
How do I get around the main sights?
Many of the palaces, monuments and museums line Tauelsizdik Ave, and main bus routes stop outside the National Museum. The Expo 2017 buildings are reached by bus at Fermata bus Nazarbayev University.
Are any of the sights free to enter?
The Grand Mosque of Astana and the Military Historical Museum of the Armed Forces of the Republic of Kazakhstan are free. Bayterek Tower and the National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan charge admission.
What should I keep in mind when visiting the mosques?
Khazret Sultan Mosque is open daily but tourists should avoid Friday afternoon prayers. Nur-Astana Mosque and the Grand Mosque of Astana are also worth visiting, and the Grand Mosque is visible from quite a distance.
Decide your dates, check what is open on the day you arrive, and start building your route along the avenue.