The Royal Palace and its Sacred Temples
Walk through the gates of the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda on Sothearos Boulevard, and you enter a world of manicured gardens and roofs glazed in dazzling coloured glass tiles. The King of Cambodia still lives here, but much of the palace opens to visitors. The two pagodas on the grounds—the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha—were built in the 19th century blending French technology with Cambodian design, and they have endured the turbulent decades since with remarkable grace. Early morning is best, before heat settles over the city. Hire a guide at the gate for US$10 to learn the history of the monarchy and the palace's formal, harmonious layout. Remember to dress modestly: no bare legs or shoulders, though knee-length shorts are fine. US$10 entry.
Art and Archaeology at the National Museum of Cambodia
Opposite the Royal Palace stands the National Museum of Cambodia on St 13. Step into its courtyard and you're surrounded by masterworks from Cambodia's golden age at Angkor: graceful statues of Hindu gods, ancient stelae inscribed in Sanskrit and old Khmer script, artifacts from prehistoric burial sites. The museum's centrepiece is a meditative statue of King Jayavarman VII, and in the courtyard stands the original "Leper King" sculpture relocated from Angkor Archaeological Park. The building itself, designed in the early 20th century by a French scholar of Khmer culture, echoes traditional Khmer architecture. The courtyard hosts the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, where the harvest's fortune is determined by sacred ritual. The gift shop stocks books on Cambodian archaeology, art and history. Open daily 08:00-17:00, last admission 16:30. US$10 entry, youth US$5.
Witnessing History at Sites of Genocide
Three sites tell the story of the Khmer Rouge terror that emptied Phnom Penh in 1975 and claimed millions of lives. All three were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2025.
- Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison): On St 113 in Chamkar Morn, this former school became Cambodia's most important prison. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before execution; only 8 survived. The museum occupies the original buildings—concrete cells, cabinets of skulls, torture implements, and photographs document the horrors with unflinching clarity. A palm-lined courtyard creates an unsettling contrast. An audio tour (available in several languages) allows you to move at your own pace; plan three hours. A short film featuring survivors screens at 09:30 upstairs. Across the street at CHA (No 54 & 56, St 113), disabled women produce handmade goods and study English. Open 08:00-17:00. US$5 entry, US$5 for audio tour or guided tour.
- The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek: About 17 km south of central Phnom Penh, this open field marks where the Khmer Rouge executed thousands. A Buddhist stupa contains over 8,000 human skulls, visible through glass sides. Mass grave pits remain visible. A small on-site museum screens a documentary throughout the day. The stupa accepts flowers and incense as offerings. Wear respectful clothing—long pants and covered shoulders. Open 07:30-17:30. US$6 entry including audio tour. Tuk-tuk from the centre costs about US$7 one way; organized tours combining both genocide sites cost US$16–US$28.
- Former M-13 Prison: About 50 km northwest of central Phnom Penh lies one of the largest Khmer Rouge prison camps. Large pits where prisoners were held remain visible in the landscape.
Walking the Riverside and the City's Heart
Phnom Penh rewards exploration on foot. Sisowath Quay, the riverside promenade along the west bank of the Tonlé Sap River, connects the city's key sights and social rhythms. Every morning, locals gather here for exercise sessions. The quay's open esplanade—with manicured lawns, palms and pathways upgraded in a Japanese-funded infrastructure project—edges a built-up strip of cafés, shops and bars popular with tourists and expats. Visit at dawn to watch the sun rise over the water and see Cambodians doing calisthenics in front of the Royal Palace. Return in the early evening when the atmosphere becomes quasi-carnival, and locals come to enjoy the cooling air. The esplanade begins at the riverfront park opposite the palace.
Nearby, two memorials anchor the city's recent past. The Independence Memorial, a striking Buddhist-style monument, commemorates Cambodia's departure from French rule in 1953 and dominates the city centre. Close by, the Stalin-style Liberation Memorial marks Vietnam's capture of Phnom Penh in 1979. On weekend nights, these memorials draw crowds—multi-coloured fountains activate and communal music plays.
Colonial Architecture and Modern Venues
Phnom Penh's colonial heritage survives in fragments. The Grand Post Office Building and the Central Market stand as notable exceptions to decay; the Raffles Le Royal Hotel preserves its era's elegance. Most historic structures now hide behind walls and security, but their architecture still speaks to the city's former reputation as the "Pearl of Asia."
For a different perspective on the modern city, visit the Olympic Stadium, built in the 1960s for Asian Games that never occurred. This Modern-style complex has been renovated and now hosts events. In the evenings, walk the perimeter to watch hundreds of locals attending exercise and dance classes, and view the abandoned track below. An Olympic-size swimming pool and diving pool with a 10-metre platform operate nearby. Entry is 6,000 riel, with a 500-riel fee to check belongings.
Phnom Penh rewards slow exploration. Begin with the Royal Palace and National Museum, anchor yourself to Sisowath Quay for meals and evening walks, and dedicate a full day to the genocide sites—difficult but essential for understanding modern Cambodia. The city is navigable by tuk-tuk and foot; hire guides where offered to unlock layers of history invisible to the passing eye.