Stand on the deck of a boat pulling out of Otsu Port and the whole shape of the city becomes clear: a shoreline curving away toward the mountains, the water of Lake Biwa opening out ahead of you, and the wooded ridge of Mount Hiei rising behind the rooftops. Otsu has been a port and a crossroads for a very long time, and much of what is worth seeing sits within a short ride of the water or the railway.
The city suits travellers who are based in Kyoto and want a day or two of temples, shrines and lake views without the crowds, as well as anyone following the temple routes of the region. It also works well for a slower trip built around a single mountain, a single temple complex or a single stretch of shoreline.
1. Enryakuji Temple
Enryakuji Temple is the head temple of Tendai Buddhism, set atop Mount Hiei, and it holds World Heritage status. The climb or ride up to the summit is part of the experience, and the temple grounds reward a slow walk rather than a quick look.
Allow a proper half day. The Sakamoto Cable runs from Cable Sakamoto Station to Cable Enryakuji Station, all within Otsu, so you can combine the cable car with the temple rather than relying on the road alone.
2. Ishiyama-dera
Ishiyama-dera was founded in 749, and its hondō is the oldest building in Shiga Prefecture. Inside the main hall, in the room on the right, is the Genji Room, where it is believed Murasaki Shikibu wrote The Tale of Genji. The precincts are large, with a 750-year-old pagoda and the Muyū-en Garden among the sights.
The pathway leading to the temple is lined with cherry trees, making it especially beautiful in spring and autumn. To get there, take the Keihan Line to Ishiyama-dera Station, then turn right on exiting and walk for about 15 minutes. Entrance is ¥500. For those travelling on the Saigoku 33 Kannon Temple Pilgrimage, Ishiyama-dera is number 13.
3. Miidera Temple
Miidera Temple is one of the major temple complexes in the city and sits on the Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line, which has a station named Miidera. It pairs naturally with the other stops along that line.
Because the line runs entirely within Otsu, you can link Miidera with Hamaōtsu and the lakefront in a single outing rather than doubling back through the centre.
4. Hiyoshi Taisha
Hiyoshi Taisha is a shrine in the Sakamoto area, at the foot of Mount Hiei. It sits on the Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line, which ends at Sakamoto, and it fits well into a day that also includes the mountain.
Combine it with the Sakamoto Cable if you are heading up to Enryakuji Temple, since both are reached from the same end of the line.
5. Omi Jingu
Omi Jingu is an attractive shrine dedicated to Emperor Tenji as an imperial shrine. It has strong associations with the origins of the karuta game and hosts the National Karuta Championships every year.
The shrine has its own stop, Ōmijingūmae, on the Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line, so it slots easily into a day moving along that route.
6. Gichu-ji Temple
Gichu-ji Temple is the burial place of the haiku poet Matsuo Bashō, known for Narrow Road to the Deep North. It is a small, quiet stop rather than a large complex.
The temple is 300 m from JR Zeze Station, one stop from Otsu on the JR Tokaido Line. Entrance is ¥200.
7. Takebe Shrine
Takebe Shrine was once the head shrine of Omi Province. It is a straightforward shrine visit rather than a full-day destination.
It works best as a stop on a day when you are already moving through the city by rail, rather than as a trip on its own.
8. Michigan Cruise
The Michigan Cruise is a cruise of Lake Biwa with on-board entertainment and food. There are 60-minute, 80-minute and night cruises, each with their own prices, and the boat leaves from Otsu Port.
The ship's name comes from the American state of Michigan because Otsu has a sister-city relationship with the state's capital, Lansing. A night cruise is a good way to end a day of temple visits without leaving the waterfront.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start early at Ishiyama-dera. Take the Keihan Line to Ishiyama-dera Station, turn right on exiting and walk about 15 minutes to the temple. Give the hondō, the Genji Room, the pagoda and the Muyū-en Garden proper time, and note the cherry trees along the approach if you are visiting in spring or autumn.
Afternoon: Continue on the Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line to Miidera Temple, then to Omi Jingu at Ōmijingūmae. If you have the energy and the daylight, push on to the end of the line at Sakamoto for Hiyoshi Taisha, and take the Sakamoto Cable from Cable Sakamoto Station toward Cable Enryakuji Station for Enryakuji Temple on Mount Hiei.
Evening: Return to the waterfront and finish with the Michigan Cruise from Otsu Port. The night cruise lets you see the lake and the city lights after a full day on your feet, with food and entertainment on board.
How do I reach Ishiyama-dera without a car?
Take the Keihan Line to Ishiyama-dera Station. On exiting, turn right and walk for about 15 minutes to reach the temple.
Is there a cheaper, quicker temple stop near the railway?
Gichu-ji Temple is 300 m from JR Zeze Station, one stop from Otsu on the JR Tokaido Line, and entrance is ¥200.
Can I see the lake without committing to a full day on the water?
Yes. The Michigan Cruise offers 60-minute, 80-minute and night cruises, each with their own prices, and the boat leaves from Otsu Port.
Which temple route does Ishiyama-dera belong to?
For those travelling on the Saigoku 33 Kannon Temple Pilgrimage, Ishiyama-dera is number 13.
Decide which of these you want most, check how it fits with the Keihan and JR lines, and start building your days around the lake.