Stand on Blue Street between the Navy base and Yokosuka-Chuo station and you will hear the city's claim to fame before you see it: sculptures along the main street honour Yokosuka as one of Japan's gateways to jazz. A few minutes away, Dobuita Street mixes shops, a Yokosuka jacket tradition and an arcade into one short, busy lane.
Yokosuka suits travellers who are curious about modern Japanese history, naval heritage and harbour scenery rather than shrine-and-temple itineraries. It occupies most of the Miura Peninsula, with Tokyo Bay to the east and Sagami Bay to the west, and the Keikyu and JR lines tie its sights together.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, in the order worth doing them, plus a one-day plan and answers to the practical questions the sources can settle.
Top things to do in Yokosuka
1. Battleship Mikasa
This is Admiral Togo's flagship from the Russo-Japanese War, and at the Battle of Tsushima it led to the annihilation of the Russian forces. English signage is present, though English-speaking staff is hit or miss.
The surrounding Mikasa park is free and features a recurring fountain show. The ferry to Sarushima island leaves from Mikasa Park, so the two pair naturally in one outing.
2. Sarushima island
An old fortress and nature preserve in Tokyo Bay, and the only natural island in Tokyo Bay. Locals come here for hiking, and it is popular for sun-bathing and barbecue in the summer.
Take the ferry from Mikasa Park. The island closes every evening, so do not miss the last ferry off, at 17:00 from March to October and 16:00 from November to February, or you will be marooned there alone overnight. There is no night staff.
3. Perry Memorial Hall and Monument
The monument marks the place where U.S. Navy Commodore Matthew C. Perry landed from his squadron of "black ships", forcing the Tokugawa Shogunate to sign a treaty of peace and friendship with the United States and opening the country to the world after 250 years of isolation.
The site is in Kurihama, a few stops away by either the Keikyu or JR train line, which makes it easy to combine with the southern end of the city.
4. Kurihama Hana-no-Kuni
This "flower country" park is known for its blooming poppies from mid-May to mid-June and cosmos flowers from September to mid-October. It also has a herb garden and a children's play area with a large Godzilla slide.
Time your visit to the flower seasons if you can, and treat it as a slower half-day rather than a quick stop.
5. Dobuita Street
Near Shioiri station, this street has many kinds of shops visited by a lot of foreigners. It is especially famous for the Yokosuka jacket, called Sukajan or "Yokosuka jumper".
Fans of the Dreamcast game "Shenmue" will notice a lot of similarities between this place and 1986 Dobuita as depicted in the game. There is an arcade, but no hot dog truck.
6. The Verny park
An elegant seaside park near Shioiri station, with a lot of roses and fountains. It is an easy, unhurried stop on the same side of town as Dobuita Street.
Pair the two: walk the shops and street food of Dobuita Street, then finish among the roses and fountains by the water.
7. Tsukayama Park
This scenic hilltop park is where William Adams, called in Japanese Miura anjin, and his wife Oyuki are buried. Adams was the inspiration for the Richard Chamberlain character in Shogun.
The park's 10,000 cherry trees make this the best blossom viewing in Yokosuka in April, and locals also find it a nice place to walk dogs. It also has a scenic overlook to the north. It is about 1 mile from Anjinzuka Station or Hemi Station on the Keikyu Line.
8. Downtown's "Blue Street"
Yokosuka's main street, running between the Navy base and Yokosuka-Chuo station. Look for sculptures honouring Yokosuka as one of the country's gateways to jazz music, as well as local street musicians and dancers.
It is the simplest place to start a visit, since it sits between the base and a major station.
9. Yokosuka Naval Base
Travellers won't be able to see much of the base, headquarters of the U.S. Navy's Seventh Fleet, but sailors based there are a common sight around the city and add to its atmosphere.
Once a year the base hosts a "Friendship Day", allowing Japanese nationals to tour the base. You can also go onto the naval base when an event takes place, such as a fireworks display or Halloween party.
10. Chōgan-ji temple
A very historic temple, not so large, but with a unique atmosphere. It is 3 minutes on foot from Anjinzuka station.
The temple holds a variety of events, including a festival celebrating flowering called Hanamaturi and learning sessions about the religion. Everyone can take part, but you need to contact the temple beforehand.
11. Yokosuka Museum of Art
A glass-clad museum with views over Tokyo Bay, housing modern and contemporary paintings and sculpture. It is open 10:00-18:00 and admission is ¥380.
Call ahead on +81 46 845 1211 if you need to confirm anything before travelling.
12. Yokosuka Stadium
The home field of the farm team of the Yokohama DeNA Baystars, used in the summer or fall. Tickets are ¥1200.
It is a 10 minute walk from Oppama Station on the Keikyu line, which makes it an easy add-on to a day on that side of the city.
13. Tanoura Pool
A small place, with some children swimming in the summer. The charge is very reasonable.
It is recommended when the summer heat sets in, and works well as a low-key break rather than a main sight.
14. Yokosuka Research Park
Not exactly a tourist attraction, this vast research complex is devoted to telecommunications in all shapes and sizes. You won't be able to see much if you show up unannounced.
Symposia and meetings are held here regularly and usually include guided tours with companies showing off their latest and greatest. Reach it at 3-4 Hikari-no-Oka by shuttle bus from Keikyu's YRP Nobi station.
15. 横須賀市自然・人文博物館
The city's natural and human history museum, listed among the places in Yokosuka. It is a sensible indoor stop if weather turns or if you want context for the peninsula before heading out to the parks and monuments.
Check locally for current opening arrangements before you build a day around it.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start on Downtown's "Blue Street" between the Navy base and Yokosuka-Chuo station, then walk to Dobuita Street near Shioiri station for the shops and the Sukajan jackets. Continue to The Verny park for the roses and fountains by the sea.
Afternoon: Head to Battleship Mikasa and its surrounding park, timing your visit for the recurring fountain show. If the season and the ferry schedule allow, take the ferry from Mikasa Park to Sarushima island for the fortress and the trails, and be back well before the last ferry, at 17:00 from March to October or 16:00 from November to February.
Evening: Return to the central area and finish along Blue Street, where the jazz sculptures and street musicians give the city its evening character.
Frequently asked questions
Can I visit Yokosuka Naval Base?
You won't be able to see much of it on an ordinary day, though sailors based there are a common sight around the city. Once a year the base hosts a "Friendship Day", allowing Japanese nationals to tour the base, and you can also go onto the base when an event takes place, such as a fireworks display or Halloween party.
When should I go to Kurihama Hana-no-Kuni?
The park is known for blooming poppies from mid-May to mid-June and cosmos flowers from September to mid-October. Outside those windows you can still use the herb garden and the children's play area with the large Godzilla slide.
What is the last ferry back from Sarushima island?
The island closes every evening. The last ferry off is at 17:00 from March to October and 16:00 from November to February. There is no night staff, so missing it means staying overnight.
Where can I see cherry blossoms in Yokosuka?
Tsukayama Park, the hilltop park where William Adams and his wife Oyuki are buried, has 10,000 cherry trees and is the best blossom viewing in Yokosuka in April. It is about 1 mile from Anjinzuka Station or Hemi Station on the Keikyu Line.
Pick your season, check the ferry times and the museum's hours, and start mapping your days around the Keikyu and JR lines.