Stand in the middle of the Arena on a summer evening and you are standing inside a Roman amphitheatre that still fills with people for opera. Walk five minutes into the medieval centre and the streets narrow, the buildings turn to brick and stone, and the day-trippers thin out after dark.
Verona suits travellers who like their history layered and walkable: Roman ruins, Romanesque churches, Scaligeri castles and a compact old town you can cross on foot. It also suits opera-goers, and anyone content to spend an evening simply strolling.
This guide covers the main sights in the city, the practical details that come with them, and a one-day plan that strings the best of them together.
Top things to do in Verona
1. Arena
An enormous Roman amphitheatre, erected in the 1st century AD in an elliptical shape and still in use today. It is crumbling on the outside, but the masonry supporting the tiered interior survives, and the outer wall fell in the earthquake of 1117 except for a small section locally called the "Ala", or wing.
Catch an opera here if you possibly can, but you will need to book months ahead. It opens daily from 08:30 to 19:00, though it closes early if there is a performance that evening.
2. Castelvecchio
A 14th-century red brick fortified castle on the banks of the river Adige, whose main buildings house the city art museum, packed with medieval sculpture and Renaissance paintings. The extensive ramparts are good for exploring, and the adjoining bridge over the river is open all the time.
Walk over the bridge for views of the castle on the river. The grounds are free to explore; the museum and ramparts are ticketed. It is closed to visitors on Monday morning, opening at 13:30.
3. Basilica of St Zeno
A 10-minute walk north-east of Castelvecchio, dedicated to Verona's patron saint, a 4th-century North African and keen fisherman who was ordained Bishop of Verona in 363. His tomb lies in a shrine in the undercroft, and he is commemorated in a grinning medieval statue in episcopal robes, dangling a golden fish on a fishing rod.
The ornate Romanesque façade by Nicolò was erected after the earthquake of 1117, and the church was a centre of European pilgrimage for centuries. Look for the graffiti left in the frescoes by pilgrims, with signatures dating from 1390.
4. Verona Cathedral
Built to replace an 8th-century church destroyed in the earthquake of 1117 and consecrated in 1187, with an ornate marble Romanesque façade by the Veronese architect Nicolò. Its pillars are supported by two griffins, and the stone reliefs around the door include Biblical scenes.
The smaller side door is also worth a look, with medieval carvings including Jonah being swallowed by a whale. Inside, the side chapels include an Assumption by Titian, and the Romanesque baptistery adjoining the chapel of Sant'Elena is preserved. Entry to the cathedral is free.
5. Piazza delle Erbe
Home of the Forum in Roman times, and still a focal point of the city. It contains the fountain known as Britney Verona, the 14th-century Gardello Tower, and a market.
It sits just off the route to Casa di Giulietta, so combine the two. Much of the pleasure of Verona comes from strolling the medieval centre, especially in the evening when the day-trippers have departed.
6. Lamberti Tower
Completed in 1463, this is the tallest of Verona's towers, with a distinctive clock tower looming over the Piazza delle Erbe. You enter via the palace courtyard.
There are 238 steps to the top, or you can take the lift, for great views. The ticket also includes admission to the Modern Art Gallery, but that is closed on Monday and the price is reduced accordingly.
7. Chiesa di Sant'Anastasia
Richly decorated in 13th- to 15th-century Gothic style. Note especially the Pelligrini Chapel, with the Pisanello depiction of St George setting off to fight the dragon.
Immediately next to it is Chiesa di San Giorgietto, a tiny chapel that is easily overlooked and richly decorated with early Renaissance frescoes depicting the walled garden of the Virgin Mary. See the two together.
8. Porta Borsari
The remains of a Roman gate, dating to at least the 2nd century AD, but almost certainly older.
It is a quick stop rather than a long visit, and works well as part of a walk through the medieval centre.
9. Casa di Giulietta
Presented as the location of the balcony scene from Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, the house used to belong to the Capello family, Shakespeare's Capulets. The balcony was added in 1936, and the house was declared to be Juliet's house to attract tourists. Inside is a sparse collection of Renaissance frescoes rescued from other demolished palaces, and the bed from Zeffirelli's 1968 film.
The tiny courtyard is normally packed, and there is an unbelievable amount of graffiti and scrawling on the walls, floor and seats, from the tradition of writing love messages to Juliet. Compared to some of the treasures around Verona, the house has very little to offer, and you do not miss out if you pass the queues. It is just off the Piazza delle Erbe, at via Cappello 23.
10. Casa di Romeo
A couple of streets away, another house has been designated as Romeo's home. It is private, so other than a sign on the wall there is nothing much to see.
Worth a glance if you are already walking Via Arche Scaligere, but not a destination in itself.
11. Castel San Pietro
Across the Ponte Pietra, this former Austrian barracks dates back to the Austrian occupation of the left bank. The building is not open to the public, but the views from the hill over Verona are spectacular, and the sunset views are good.
Climb the steps up the hill above the Roman Amphitheatre, or take the funicular. It was closed for restoration as of October 2019, so check before you go.
12. Giardino Giusti
One of Italy's most important Renaissance and mannerist gardens, with grottoes and fire-breathing masks carved into the hillside.
It lies a little further out across the river, and pairs naturally with Castel San Pietro and the walk along the riverside.
13. Juliet's Tomb
At the Capuccin Church. The church also houses the Antonian Fresco Museum.
14. Roman theatre
A smaller amphitheatre across the river, distinct from the Arena.
It sits on the far bank, so fold it into the same riverside walk as Castel San Pietro and the Giardino Giusti.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Arena when it opens, then walk to Piazza delle Erbe and climb Lamberti Tower for the views over the city.
Afternoon: Cross to Castelvecchio to explore the ramparts and the art museum, then walk over the adjoining bridge for views of the castle on the river. Continue to the Basilica of St Zeno, and on the way back take in Verona Cathedral.
Evening: Return to the medieval centre and stroll it as the day-trippers depart. If there is a performance at the Arena, that is the evening; otherwise walk the riverside towards Ponte Pietra and the Castel San Pietro hill for the sunset views.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time to walk the medieval centre?
In the evening, when the day-trippers have departed. Much of the pleasure of Verona comes from simply strolling the centre rather than ticking off sights.
Do I need to book Arena opera tickets in advance?
Yes. The Arena hosts performances by the world's top singers, and when these are on the whole city, not just the Arena, will be booked solid. You will need to book months ahead.
Is Casa di Giulietta worth the queue?
Its popularity belies its value. The balcony was added in 1936, the interior collection is sparse, and compared to other treasures around Verona the house has very little to offer. You do not miss out if you pass the queues.
How do I see several of the paid sights?
One way to see the attractions is by getting the Verona Card and visiting the venues. Note that some sights close early on certain days, so plan around them.
Decide which evening you want in the Arena, then build the rest of your days around it.