Stand at the railing above the Aniene gorge and the noise of falling water carries up through the trees to the terraces of Villa d'Este. Tivoli rewards travellers who are willing to walk downhill and then uphill again, because its famous sights sit at different elevations around the same small centre.
The town suits day-trippers from Rome, garden lovers, and anyone interested in Roman engineering and Renaissance waterworks. This guide covers the three major sites in and around Tivoli, plus a plan for seeing them in a single day.
Top things to do in Tivoli
1. Villa d'Este
A UNESCO World Heritage Site and the main reason many visitors come to Tivoli. The villa itself has attractive frescoes on its ceilings, but the terraced gardens below it are the centrepiece: numerous fountains, large and small, that rely on natural water pressure from the steep slope, fed mainly by the River Aniene. The gardens were conceived and built between 1550 and 1572 by Cardinal d'Este, fell into decay in the 18th and 19th centuries, and were taken over by the Italian Government at the beginning of the First World War and gradually restored.
It is closed on Mondays, so plan around that. Because the gardens descend below the villa, allow time and energy for the climb back up.
2. Villa Adriana
The country retreat of the Emperor Hadrian, and one of Tivoli's World Heritage Sites. It is a very large estate with ruins in various levels of preservation, located down the hill back towards Rome, close to the Via Tiburtina. It sits near the centre of the town.
The map given for the tour is not very useful, so consider the audio guides instead; they require you to deposit an ID, which has been known to go missing. Each key site also has a large sign with the same content in text in four languages. Car parking is to the left as you approach, and there is a restaurant, a cafe and a bookshop at the entrance area.
3. Villa Gregoriana
Located at the foot of the Roman acropolis in Tivoli and named after Pope Gregory XVI, who officially commissioned it in 1835. It sits in a gorge of the waterfalls of the Aniene, which makes it a different kind of visit from the two villas above.
Its position at the foot of the acropolis means the walk down and back up is part of the experience, so wear shoes you can walk in.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Villa Adriana, down the hill towards Rome, while you have the most energy for a large estate with ruins at various levels of preservation. Use the on-site signs or an audio guide rather than relying on the tour map.
Afternoon: Return to the centre for Villa d'Este, giving most of your time to the terraced gardens and their fountains. Remember it is closed on Mondays.
Evening: Finish at Villa Gregoriana at the foot of the Roman acropolis, where the gorge and the waterfalls of the Aniene close the day.
Frequently asked questions
When is Villa d'Este closed?
Villa d'Este is closed on Mondays.
Are audio guides available at Villa Adriana?
Yes. They are available for a fee and require you to deposit an ID, which has been known to be lost, so you may prefer the large signs at each site, which carry the same content in text in four languages.
Where is Villa Adriana in relation to the town?
It is near the centre of the town, down the hill back towards Rome, and you drive close to it on the Via Tiburtina.
What is at the entrance area of Villa Adriana?
There is a restaurant, a cafe and a bookshop, with car parking to the left as you approach.
Decide which of the three sites matters most to you, check the Monday closure at Villa d'Este, and build your day around the walking.