Stand at the foot of the cliff at Taq-e Bostan, where a Sasanian king sits in armour on his horse Shabdiz, carved into the rock above a spring-fed reflecting pool. The figures have held their shape through almost 1,700 years of wind and rain in the Zagros, and the scale of the carving becomes clear only when you are standing beneath it.
Kermanshah suits travellers who are drawn to rock reliefs, caves and old houses rather than to polished city attractions. The sights are spread out, some inside the city and some in the surrounding mountains and plains, so a little planning around transport pays off.
This guide covers the main places to see in and around Kermanshah, with practical notes on what to combine and when to go.
Top things to do in Kermanshah
1. Taq-e Bostan
Taq-e Bostan is a series of large rock reliefs from the Sasanian era, cut into the heart of the Zagros mountains about 5 km from the city centre. The carvings include representations of the investitures of Ardashir II and Shapur III, and inside the largest grotto is the gigantic equestrian figure of the Sasanian king Khosrau II mounted on his charger, Shabdiz, both arrayed in full battle armour.
The reliefs sit beside a sacred spring that empties into a reflecting pool at the base of the mountain cliff. Combine the visit with Kouhestan Park, which is nearby and looks out over the city.
2. Behistun Inscription
The Behistun Inscription is a multi-lingual inscription on Mount Behistun and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It carries three versions of the same text in Old Persian, Elamite and Babylonian cuneiform, and its decipherment was as crucial to reading cuneiform as the Rosetta Stone was to Egyptian hieroglyphs. The inscription is roughly 15 m high by 25 m wide, set about 100 m up a limestone cliff above an ancient road that connected Babylon and Ecbatana.
The mountainside below it was removed to make the inscription more visible after it was completed, which is why it is so hard to reach. View it from below and allow time to take in the scale.
3. Mo'avenalmolk Mosque (Tekyeh Moaven al-molk)
This Shia mourning site is known for its distinctive tiling, which pictures the Ghazi (warrior) of the Islamic era, the Battle of Karbala, and images of Achaemenid kings and Persepolis. The same old Qajar-period house also holds the Museum of Ethnography, so you can see the building and the collection in one stop.
4. Zagros Paleolithic Museum
The Zagros Paleolithic Museum holds rich collections of stone tools and animal fossil bones from Paleolithic sites across Iran. It is the first museum in Iran devoted to the Paleolithic period, which makes it a natural complement to the caves and rock shelters of the surrounding region.
5. Museum of Epigraphy and Qajar Hand Writings at Tekieh Biglar Baigi
This museum is housed in one of the old Qajar-period houses of the city, alongside the Museum of Ethnography and the Zagros Paleolithic Museum. It is worth adding to a museum circuit if you are interested in written material and the architecture of the period.
6. Museum of Traditional Martial Art
The Museum of Traditional Martial Art in Kermanshah contains many wax models of traditional wrestlers. It is a small, specific collection that pairs well with the other old-house museums in the city.
7. Kouhestan Park
Kouhestan Park lies north of Kermanshah, near the Taq Bostan Mountains, and has a beautiful view of the city. It is the obvious place to end a visit to Taq-e Bostan, since the two are close together.
8. Talab-e Hashilan
Talab-e Hashilan is a marsh with tiny floating islands and various plants that shelter 200 species of birds. The marsh covers 1,500 hectares and lies 32 km from Kermanshah, so it needs a half-day or more of your time.
9. Qoori Qal'eh cave
Qoori Qal'eh cave is one of the natural sights of the province, located 92 km from the city heading toward Paveh. Its spine is 3,140 metres long and the cave-length is 12 km, set among a variety of forest trees. Inside, the first phase of which has been developed, there is an ever-flowing stream and chambers with icicles and colourful columns.
10. Prav Cave
Prav Cave sits in the Prav Mountains between Taq Bostan and Bisotoon heights. It is the deepest cave in Asia, with glaciers and a 762-metre deep valley inside it and several streams. Treat it as a serious outing rather than a quick stop.
11. Do-Ashkaft Cave
Do-Ashkaft Cave is one of the known Paleolithic caves of the Kermanshah area, alongside Warwasi, Qobeh and Malaverd. It is a place to see the landscape that produced the material now displayed in the Zagros Paleolithic Museum.
12. Jameh Mosque of Kermanshah
The Jameh Mosque of Kermanshah is among the named sights of the city. It fits easily into a walk through the centre alongside the other historic buildings.
13. Emad o dolah Mosque
Emad o dolah Mosque is another of the city's listed sights. Pair it with the Jameh Mosque of Kermanshah if you are spending a morning on the central mosques.
14. Kohneh Bridge
Kohneh Bridge is one of the historic structures named among the sights of Kermanshah. It is a straightforward stop to fold into a day in the city.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Taq-e Bostan, where the Sasanian reliefs and the equestrian figure of Khosrau II on Shabdiz are carved above the spring-fed pool. Walk on to Kouhestan Park for the view over the city.
Afternoon: Head into the city for the old Qajar-period houses. See Mo'avenalmolk Mosque (Tekyeh Moaven al-molk) with its tiling, then the Zagros Paleolithic Museum for the stone tools and fossil bones, and the Museum of Epigraphy and Qajar Hand Writings at Tekieh Biglar Baigi.
Evening: Finish at the Jameh Mosque of Kermanshah and Emad o dolah Mosque, and cross Kohneh Bridge if your route allows.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Taq-e Bostan from the city centre?
Taq-e Bostan is located about 5 km from the city centre of Kermanshah, in the Zagros mountains.
What can I see at the Behistun Inscription?
You can see a multi-lingual inscription on Mount Behistun with three versions of the same text in Old Persian, Elamite and Babylonian cuneiform, together with a life-sized bas-relief of Darius holding a bow, attended by servants and facing bound figures representing conquered peoples.
Which museums in Kermanshah are housed in old houses?
There are four museums in old houses of the Qajar period: the Museum of Ethnography at Tekyeh Moavenalmolk, the Zagros Paleolithic Museum, and the Museum of Epigraphy and Qajar Hand Writings at Tekieh Biglar Baigi.
How far are the caves and the marsh from the city?
Talab-e Hashilan is 32 km from Kermanshah, and Qoori Qal'eh cave is 92 km from the city heading toward Paveh. Prav Cave lies in the Prav Mountains between Taq Bostan and Bisotoon heights.
Decide which of these you want most, check how you will reach the outlying sites, and start building your itinerary for Kermanshah.