Stand on the mound of the Kirkuk Citadel and the Khasa River runs below you, with several hundred families still living inside the walls of a settlement that dates back to 858 BCE. The city spreads out from there, and the mix of Kurdish, Turkmen and Arab life is what you notice first.
Kirkuk suits travellers who are already in northern Iraq and want a day or two of history rather than a resort. The sights are close together and the pace is slow, so plan around the citadel and the market rather than a long list.
This guide covers the citadel and what sits inside it, the Ottoman-era buildings nearby, the Pirehmerd market, and the eternal fire at Baba Gurgur outside the city.
Top things to do in Kirkuk
1. Kirkuk Citadel
The citadel is the reason to come. It stands on an artificial mound 40 metres high, on a plateau across the Khasa River, and its history reaches back to 858 BCE. Several hundred families still live within it, so you are walking through a working neighbourhood as much as a monument.
Give it the best part of a morning and wear shoes you can walk in over uneven ground. The Mosque and Tomb of the Prophet Daniel is inside the citadel, so combine the two in one visit.
2. Mosque and Tomb of the Prophet Daniel
This site inside the citadel is one of many traditional burial places for Prophet Daniel, as well as for Shadrach, Meshach and Abednego. It is visited by both Muslim and Christian worshippers and is revered by Iraqi Jews as well, which makes it one of the clearest expressions of the city's mixed religious life.
It sits within the citadel, so see it as part of the same walk rather than a separate trip. Dress modestly, as you would at any place of worship.
3. Qishla of Kirkuk
The qishla takes its name from the Turkish word for barracks and was built in 1863 as the headquarters of the Ottoman army in Kirkuk. It is in disrepair, so what you see is a building holding its own against time rather than a restored exhibit.
Look at it with an eye for the Ottoman period in the city's story, and pair it with the citadel while you are in the centre.
4. Eternal fire of Baba Gurgur
The eternal fire at Baba Gurgur is more than 4,000 years old. It is the one sight on this list that takes you out of the city itself, and it is worth the trip for the simple fact of standing in front of a flame that has burned through recorded history.
Go as its own outing rather than trying to squeeze it between city sights. There is also a Baba Gurgur amusement park with two areas, one near Smileland and the other to the north, if you are travelling with children.
5. Pirehmerd market
Bazari Pirehmerd is the city's market, and it is where the everyday life of Kirkuk is easiest to read. Come for the produce, the goods and the crowd rather than for a single monument.
Go in the morning when the market is at its busiest, and treat it as a slow hour rather than a stop on a checklist.
6. Smileland amusement park
Smileland is the city's amusement park, and it also has a place in the Mall of Kirkuk. It is the obvious choice if you are travelling with children or want an easy evening after a day of historical sites.
Note that the Baba Gurgur amusement park has one area near Smileland, so the two can be worked into the same outing.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Kirkuk Citadel, walking the mound above the Khasa River and giving yourself time to take in the fact that families still live inside it. The Mosque and Tomb of the Prophet Daniel is inside the citadel, so visit it in the same stretch. Follow with the Qishla of Kirkuk, the Ottoman barracks building, while you are still in the centre.
Afternoon: Move on to Pirehmerd market, where the city's daily life is at its most visible. Take your time among the stalls rather than rushing through.
Evening: Head out to the eternal fire of Baba Gurgur, the flame that has burned for more than 4,000 years. If you are travelling with children, the Baba Gurgur amusement park and Smileland can round off the day.
Frequently asked questions
What is the single sight I should not skip in Kirkuk?
The Kirkuk Citadel. It dates back to 858 BCE, stands on an artificial mound 40 metres high on a plateau across the Khasa River, and still has several hundred families living within it.
Can I visit the Mosque and Tomb of the Prophet Daniel separately from the citadel?
No need to plan it separately. It is inside the citadel, so it fits naturally into the same visit.
Is the eternal fire of Baba Gurgur in the city centre?
No. It is a separate outing from the central sights, which is why it works best as its own trip rather than an add-on between stops in the city.
What is there to do in Kirkuk with children?
Smileland amusement park, which also has a place in the Mall of Kirkuk, and the Baba Gurgur amusement park, which has two areas, one near Smileland and the other to the north.
Start with the citadel and the market, then decide how much of the rest of your day you want to give to Baba Gurgur.