Stand at the South Gate of the Citadel of Erbil and the city arranges itself around you: the yellow brick vaults of Qaysari Market straight ahead, the old town spreading below, and the mound itself rising above the modern streets. Erbil rewards a traveller who is willing to walk rather than tick off sights.
The city suits curious walkers, museum-goers and anyone interested in the layers of Mesopotamian, Assyrian, Kurdish and Islamic history that meet here. This guide covers the sights in and around the centre, the museums, the parks, and how to string them together if your time is short.
Top things to do in Erbil
1. Citadel of Erbil
The Citadel of Erbil is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the centre of the city, a round structure about 30 metres high that dominates the old city and has been built upon seven layers of civilisation. It consists of three main quarters — Topkhana, Saray and Taki — and has been continuously inhabited since its founding.
Walk to the top to see the main square and road, and have your picture taken overlooking the city by a man with a professional-quality camera, who charges 5,000 Iraqi Dinars for five shots and transfers the photos to your phone by USB cable immediately after. Note that as of June 2024 the Citadel was still undergoing restoration: most of the back streets are blocked off, construction and excavation make the views much less picturesque, and mosques were closed. A picturesque view can be had from the upper floors of the shopping centre opposite.
2. Qaysari Market
Erbil's historic covered bazaar, built out of vaulted yellow brick, sits across the street from the South Gate of the Citadel. It is similar to many others found throughout the Middle East and North Africa, but with less tourism than most. Stalls sell everything from cheap toys and pirated DVDs to bulk spices to fine jewellery and carpets.
Combine it with the Citadel, since the two face each other, and treat the market as a slow walk rather than a shopping errand.
3. Mudhafaria Minaret
The 36-metre-high Mudhafaria Minaret stands in Minaret Park, several blocks from the citadel, and dates back to the late 12th century AD and the reign of Erbil king Muzaffar Al-Din Abu Sa'eed Al-Kawkaboori. It has an octagonal base decorated with two tiers of niches, separated from the main shaft by a small balcony, also decorated. Another historical minaret with turquoise glazed tiles is nearby.
Shanidar Park is across the street from Minaret Park, so the two are easy to pair in one outing.
4. Jalil Khayat Mosque
The largest mosque in Erbil, on Kurdistan Street across from Royal Mall, is named after Jalil Khayat, who took the initiative for its construction but passed away in 2005 before it could be completed; his sons finished the project in 2007. It is widely regarded as having one of the most beautiful interiors, and its architecture resembles the style of the Mosque of Muhammad Ali in Cairo and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.
It is a working place of worship, so plan your visit around prayer times and dress accordingly.
5. Kurdish Textile Museum
A small museum in the Citadel that displays textiles produced in Iraqi Kurdistan, as well as traditional clothing and other artefacts, housed in a restored early-twentieth-century traditional house. It opens 09:00–17:30 and entry is 1,500 IQD.
Because it sits inside the Citadel, it is the natural indoor stop while the surrounding streets are closed for restoration work.
6. Grand Mosque
Erbil's historic central mosque, in the Citadel, remains open despite the renovations going on around it. It is a short stop, but an easy one to fold into a Citadel visit.
Check locally before you climb up, since access within the Citadel has been changing with the restoration work.
7. Erbil Civilization Museum
A small archaeological museum run by the Erbil Governorate, on Municipality Street near Francoise Haririr Stadium, about 1 km from the Citadel. It is divided into three historical sections, with antiques exhibited according to era from ancient periods until advanced ages, and some exhibits go back to 5000 BC. A rich library is adjacent to the museum.
On the grounds of the museum is the Mound of Qalich Agha, where an excavation in 1996 found tools from the Halaf, Ubaid and Uruk periods.
8. Sami Abdulrahman Park
Erbil's newly constructed central park, between Kurdistan Street and Gulan Street, includes gardens, a jogging track and ample walking paths. It is mostly well lit at night and is a popular local gathering spot on weekends and in the evening.
It is also the departure and finish line for the annual Erbil Marathon, organised since 2011, which offers a full 42 km route alongside 10 km and 5 km tracks.
9. Shanidar Park
Across the street from Minaret Park, Shanidar Park features an aerial cable car connecting it with Minaret Park. The Shanadar Gallery, in the park, is a place to explore Erbil's nascent local art scene.
Pair the gallery with an evening of Kurdish, Arab and Persian music at one of the city's many restaurant and show venues.
10. St. Joseph's Cathedral
Constructed from 1978 to 1981 with labour from volunteers, the church was designed in a distinctive Babylonian style, including a main gate modelled after the Ishtar Gate. It includes a large yard and expansive gardens, and entry is free.
The grounds are the reason to linger rather than the interior alone, so leave time to walk them.
11. Shar Park
Shar Park sits in front of Erbil Citadel and is free to enter. It is the simplest place to sit down after walking the old city.
Use it as a rest point between the Citadel and Qaysari Market rather than as a destination in itself.
12. Syriac Heritage Museum
A museum devoted to Syriac heritage, and a useful complement to the city's church architecture if you are following Erbil's Christian history.
It pairs naturally with St. Joseph's Cathedral on the same outing.
13. Xanzad Castle
A still intact castle built by Mir Xanzad, ruler of the Soran Emirate in the late 16th or early 17th century, about 18 km northeast of central Erbil near Banaman. It is the one sight here that takes you out of the city.
Because it lies outside the centre, give it a half day and arrange transport in advance.
14. Peshmerga Park
A free park in Kwestan Quarter. It is a straightforward local green space rather than a formal attraction.
Worth adding only if you are already in that part of the city.
15. Erbil SC at Franso Hariri Stadium
In season, see the Erbil SC football team play a match at Franso Hariri Stadium, south of the city centre. Erbil SC is a regular winner in the Iraqi Premiere League and beloved by many locals.
Check the fixture list before you travel, since matches are seasonal.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Citadel of Erbil, walking to the top for the main square and the view, then visit the Grand Mosque and the Kurdish Textile Museum while you are inside. Come down through the South Gate and cross the street into Qaysari Market for the covered bazaar.
Afternoon. Walk to the Erbil Civilization Museum on Municipality Street, including the Mound of Qalich Agha on its grounds, then continue to Minaret Park for the Mudhafaria Minaret. Cross the street into Shanidar Park and look in at the Shanadar Gallery.
Evening. Take a taxi to the Jalil Khayat Mosque on Kurdistan Street, then finish with a walk in Sami Abdulrahman Park, which is mostly well lit at night and busy with locals in the evening.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Citadel of Erbil open to visitors?
Visitors can walk to the top and see the main square and road, but as of June 2024 the Citadel was still undergoing restoration, most back streets were blocked off, and mosques were closed. Construction and excavation make the views much less picturesque than you might expect.
How much do the museums cost?
The Kurdish Textile Museum charges 1,500 IQD and opens 09:00–17:30. St. Joseph's Cathedral is free, as are Shar Park and Peshmerga Park.
What can I combine with the Citadel in one walk?
Qaysari Market is directly across the street from the South Gate of the Citadel, and Shar Park sits in front of the Citadel. The Kurdish Textile Museum and the Grand Mosque are both inside the Citadel itself.
Do I need to leave the city centre for anything?
Xanzad Castle is about 18 km northeast of central Erbil, near Banaman, and Erbil SC matches are played at Franso Hariri Stadium south of the city centre.
Decide which of these fits your days, check the current situation at the Citadel before you go, and start mapping your route through the old city.