Stand at the edge of Khusro Bagh's south gate on a winter morning and you can read the calligraphy above the arch, cut by Jahangir's master calligrapher Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam in 1606–07, while horseshoes nailed to the wooden doorway hang above your head. A few steps inside, three sandstone tombs rise out of a walled Mughal garden, and the noise of Station Road falls away.
Prayagraj suits travellers interested in Mughal architecture, colonial-era monuments and the rituals of a river city rather than nightlife or shopping. Most of what is described below sits in a compact band between the railway junction and the confluence, so you can cover a great deal on foot and by short auto-rickshaw rides.
This guide covers the sights named in the source material, with a one-day plan that strings the strongest of them together.
Top things to do in Prayagraj
1. Khusro Bagh
A walled Mughal garden and burial complex just south of Prayagraj Junction, named after Mirza Khusro, eldest son of Jahangir. Inside are three large tombs plus a smaller one, along with two fountains, water channels and pavilions, all dating to the early 17th century. During the Revolt of 1857 the garden became the headquarters of the sepoys under Maulvi Liaquat Ali.
Entry is free and the site is open 08:00–20:00. The surrounding locality is known for Allahabadi guavas, so combine a walk through the tombs with fruit from the neighbourhood.
2. Khusro Bagh gate (south)
The red sandstone gateway on the south side of the complex carries a calligraphy inscription by Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam recording that the gate dates to 1606–07, was designed by Aqa Reza and was commissioned by Jahangir. The massive arched wooden doorway is nailed with horseshoes of different sizes, and the gate is topped with battlements and ornate oriel windows.
It is heavily encroached, so photographing the whole structure is difficult. This gate leads down to the Yamuna River; the northern gate on Station Road is more frequently used and offers easier access.
3. Shah Begum's Tomb
The principal tomb of the Khusro Bagh complex, occupying the central position. Shah Begum was the wife of Jahangir and mother of Khusro Mirza; born Man Bai, daughter of Raja Bhagwant Das of Amer, she died in 1604 and the tomb was built in 1606. Designed by Aqa Reza with calligraphy by Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam, it is a three-tiered sandstone structure on a high plinth, topped with a chatri and an elaborate finial.
See it as the centrepiece of your walk through the garden, then move on to the two tombs flanking it.
4. Nithar Begum's Tomb
The last of the three great tombs of Khusro Bagh, built in 1624–25 and the most elaborate of them. Nithar Begum was Khusro Mirza's sister and daughter of Shah Begum. The two-storey red sandstone structure stands on a raised plinth, with a tomb chamber reached through a carved doorway leading to the lower level meant to house the actual grave, a massive dome flanked by four chatris and slender minarets at the corners.
The interior holds some of the finest Mughal frescoes, with elaborately painted stars in concentric circles and inscriptions running along the inner walls. Allow time to go inside rather than only circling the exterior.
5. Khusrau Mirza's Tomb
The easternmost tomb of the complex, marking the grave of Jahangir's eldest son, executed in 1622 on the order of Prince Khurram, later Shah Jahan. The sandstone mausoleum stands on a low plinth and is topped with a dome on an octagonal drum, with chatris at the four corners and minarets marking the upper storey. The interior has brightly coloured frescoes and intricate calligraphy, and the tomb houses two other graves in arcaded niches.
Look for the grave of Khusro's horse in the south-east corner of the plinth. Visit it last among the three great tombs, as it sits at the far end of the garden.
6. Bibi Tamolon's Tomb
On the western side of the three great tombs stands the lone tomb of Bibi Tamolon. Little is known about the tomb or its occupant. The sandstone octagonal structure stands on a high plinth and is topped with a dome.
It is a short detour within the same complex, so fold it into your circuit of Khusro Bagh rather than treating it as a separate stop.
7. Khusro bagh gate (north)
The gate on Station Road provides easy access to the complex and is the more frequently used entrance. It is a new gate and has no historic significance.
Use this gate if you are arriving from Prayagraj Junction and want the simplest way in; save the south gate for its inscription and its route down towards the Yamuna.
8. Allahabad Fort
Built from 1583 onwards by Akbar, the fort stands at the junction of the two great rivers and was the largest of Akbar's forts. Although its original form has been much impaired by early restoration work, the splendid Zenana Palace survives: a fine pavilion with a central square hall carried on 64 columns, bordered by a deep veranda of double columns with clusters of four at each corner.
Pair it with Minto Park, which lies between the fort and the Yamuna Bridge, so you cover both in one stretch along the river.
9. Minto Park (Madan Mohan Malaviya Park)
This is where Lord Canning read out the declaration of Queen Victoria's Proclamation in 1858, transferring control over India from the East India Company to the British government. Lord Minto installed a proclamation pillar in 1908 to mark the fiftieth anniversary, topped with busts of Queen Victoria and Edward VII; after independence the busts were replaced by the Ashokan Lion Capital and the park was renamed.
Next to the park is a British-era Christian cemetery containing graves of British soldiers killed during the Revolt of 1857. It sits between the fort and the Yamuna Bridge, making it an easy addition to a riverfront walk.
10. Company Bagh (Alfred Park or Chandrashekhar Azad Park)
The place to experience the British era of Indian history. The park came up in 1870 during the visit of Prince Alfred, second son of Queen Victoria, and was named after him; it later became known as Company Bagh and is the largest park in Prayagraj. Within it are Allahabad Museum, Victoria Memorial and the public library. It was here that freedom fighter Chandrashekhar Azad shot himself with his last bullet on 27 February 1931, and a memorial stands at the foot of the tree where he died, with a full-length statue of him nearby.
Entry is ₹5. Because several sights sit inside the park, set aside a block of time rather than passing through.
11. Victorial Memorial
Inside Chandrashekhar Azad Park, this is not a memorial but a canopy that once housed the imposing marble statue of Queen Victoria. The canopy and statue were installed in 1905 and inaugurated by Sir James John Digges La Touche, governor of the United Provinces of Agra and Oudh. In the 1960s the statue was removed and shifted to the Municipal Museum in Lucknow, and the canopy has been vacant ever since.
It is a short walk from the other features of the park, so see it in the same visit as the library and the museum.
12. Thornhill Mayne Memorial (Allahabad Public Library)
Perched in Company Garden, this monument served as the house of the legislative assembly during the British era, when Allahabad was the capital of the United Provinces. It has since been converted into the Public Library. The building is beautifully carved from white sandstone and described as drenched in Gothic serenity.
Combine it with the Victoria Memorial and Allahabad Museum, both within the same park.
13. University of Allahabad Campus
The campus has various neo-Gothic monuments. The university originally started as the Muir College in 1872 and merged with the newly formed Allahabad University in 1921. The Muir College, complete with domes and tower, is built in Indo-Saracenic style, designed by William Emerson with a blend of Indian and Persian elements. The Zoological museum, known as Agharkar Museum, is housed in the Department of Zoology and holds a collection of skeletons of mammoth and elephants; the archaeology department also has its own museum.
Plan the campus as a single stop so you can take in the architecture and the departmental museums together.
14. Mayo Memorial and Town Hall
Constructed in 1879 in memory of Lord Mayo, the Viceroy of India assassinated in the Andamans in 1872. The foundation stone was laid by Lord Lytton and the building was designed by Richard Southwell Bourke. The hall was meant for public meetings and elaborate parties, and the structure is dominated by a 180 high tower. The interior was ornamented with designs by Professor Gamble of the South Kensington Museum, and tourists can access the huge hall supported by decorative pillars and gothic arches.
It is open 10:00am–5:00pm, so slot it into the middle of the day rather than the early morning or late evening.
15. Old Naini Bridge
One of the oldest bridges in the country, it runs across the river at Prayagraj. Cross it for the river views and the sense of the city's relationship with the water.
It works well as the end point of a riverfront circuit that takes in Allahabad Fort and Minto Park.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Khusro Bagh when it opens at 08:00, entering by the north gate on Station Road. Work through Shah Begum's Tomb, Nithar Begum's Tomb, Khusrau Mirza's Tomb and Bibi Tamolon's Tomb, then walk out through the south gate to see the 1606–07 inscription and the horseshoe-studded doorway. Buy Allahabadi guavas in the surrounding locality on your way out.
Afternoon: Head to Company Bagh (Chandrashekhar Azad Park) and spend the middle of the day inside it: the Chandrashekhar Azad memorial and statue, the Victorial Memorial canopy, Thornhill Mayne Memorial and Allahabad Museum. Then move on to Mayo Memorial and Town Hall before it closes at 5:00pm.
Evening: Finish along the river. Visit Allahabad Fort and its Zenana Palace, walk through Minto Park and the adjoining British-era cemetery, and cross the Old Naini Bridge as the light goes.
Frequently asked questions
Is Khusro Bagh free to enter?
Yes. Khusro Bagh is free, and it is open from 08:00 to 20:00.
Which gate of Khusro Bagh should I use?
The north gate on Station Road is the more frequently used and gives easy access. The south gate is the historic red sandstone gateway with the 1606–07 inscription, but it is heavily encroached and leads down to the Yamuna River.
What are the opening hours of Mayo Memorial and Town Hall?
It is open from 10:00am to 5:00pm, and the interiors are accessible to tourists.
What does entry to Company Bagh cost?
Entry to Company Bagh, also known as Alfred Park or Chandrashekhar Azad Park, is ₹5.
Decide your dates, pick your starting point at Khusro Bagh or the riverfront, and the rest of Prayagraj falls into place within a day's walk and a few short rides.