Stand on the ghats at Siddhavat and the Shipra moves quietly past a banyan tree that, by one tradition, pushed its way through iron sheets laid over it. That mixture of the ordinary and the legendary is what a day in Ujjain feels like: a working city where the Mahakal temple anchors the streets around it, and where almost every riverbank and lane carries a story.
Ujjain suits travellers who are comfortable in busy temple towns and who are willing to plan around crowds, early mornings and slow queues. It rewards curiosity about text, architecture and ritual more than it rewards a checklist approach.
1. Mahakaleshwar Temple
This is the main attraction of the city and one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, the most sacred abodes of Shiva. The temple's shikhara rises over the centre of the city, and the Mahakal dominates the life of Ujjain and its people, providing an unbreakable link with past traditions even amid modern routines.
Expect hawkers and hard-sellers around the temple. You are usually not required to wait in the queue to offer prayers at the Jyotirlinga, but the temple is crowded on weekends, including Mondays, when queues can take up to three hours and move slowly. Once you reach the sanctum sanctorum, where the main Jyotirlinga is situated, you are not pushed as you are at other temples, and you can wait as long as you like for a good view.
2. Jantar Mantar (Vedh Shala)
Built by Maharaja Jai Singh II in 1725, this observatory is unlike the Jantar Mantars in Delhi and Jaipur in one important way: it is still in active use. It consists of 13 architectural astronomy instruments, constructed to measure local time and altitude and to measure the declination of the Sun, stars and planets and to determine eclipses.
Several special instruments were used to record the motion, speed and properties of stars and planets. There is a small planetarium and a telescope for observing the Moon, Mars, Jupiter and their natural satellites, and the observatory is also used for weather forecasts.
3. Vikram Kirti Mandir
Established on the occasion of the second millennium of the Vikram Samvat, this cultural centre perpetuates the memory of Vikramaditya and houses the Scindia Oriental Research Institute, an archaeological museum, an art gallery and an auditorium. The institute holds an invaluable collection of 18,000 manuscripts and runs a reference library of important oriental publications.
Rare manuscripts in Prakrit, Arabic, Persian and other Indian languages cover subjects from Vedic literature and philosophy to dance and music, and palm leaf and bark leaf (Bhurja Patra) manuscripts are also preserved. Look for the illustrated manuscript of Shrimad Bhagavata in which actual gold and silver have been employed for the paintings, the old Rajput and Mughal style paintings, and the museum's images, inscriptions, copper plates and fossils from the Narmada valley, including a huge skull of a primitive elephant.
4. Kaliadeh Palace
Situated on the banks of the Shipra, this island-like site conjures up the natural beauty of ancient Ujjain. The landscape of the flowing river on both sides of the palace, with man-made tanks and channels and water gurgling through them, provides a backdrop to the imposing building, whose central dome is a fine example of Persian architecture.
Two Persian inscriptions in one of the long corridors record the visits of Emperor Akbar and Jehangir to the palace. The palace was broken down in the time of the Pindaris and restored by Madhav Rao Scindia in 1920; the Sun Temple was also restored by the family.
5. Sandipani Ashram
That ancient Ujjain was a great seat of learning as early as the Mahabharata period is borne out here, where Lord Krishna and Sudama received regular instruction in the ashram of Guru Sandipani. The area near the ashram is known as Ankapata, popularly believed to have been the place used by Lord Krishna for washing his writing tablet.
The numerals 1 to 100 found on a stone are believed to have been engraved by Guru Sandipani, and the Gomti Kunda referred to in the Puranas was the source of water supply to the ashram in the olden days. An image of Nandi belonging to the Shunga period is to be found near the tank. Followers of the Vallabha sect regard this place as the 73rd seat of the 84 seats of Vallabhacharya, where he delivered his discourses throughout India.
6. Bhartrihari Caves
These caves sit just above the bank of the Shipra near the temple of Gadkalika. According to popular tradition, this is the spot where Bhartrihari, said to have been the step brother of Vikramaditya, lived and meditated after renouncing worldly life.
He is believed to have been a great scholar and poet, and his famous works, Shringarshatak, Vairagyashatak and Nitishatak, are known for the exquisite use of the Sanskrit meter. Combine the caves with the nearby Gadkalika temple and Pir Matsyendranath, which are close by on the same stretch of riverbank.
7. Pir Matsyendranath
This is an attractive spot on the banks of the Shipra, quite close to the Bhartrihari Caves and the Gadkalika Temple. It is dedicated to the memory of Matsyendranath, one of the great leaders of the Natha sect of Saivism.
Because Muslims as well as followers of the Natha sect call their saints "pir", the ancient site is venerated by both. Excavations here have yielded antiquities dating back to the 6th and 7th century BC.
8. Siddhavat
This enormous banyan tree on the banks of the Shipra has been vested with religious sanctity comparable to the Akashyavat in Prayag and Gaya, the Vanshivat of Vrindavan and the Panchavata of Nasik. Thousands of pilgrims take a dip in the Shipra from the bathing ghat built here, and according to one tradition Parvati is believed to have performed her penance here.
It used to be a place of worship for the followers of the Natha sect. One legend holds that some Mughal rulers cut off the banyan tree and covered the site with iron sheets to prevent its roots from growing, but the tree pierced the iron sheets and grew and flourished. The little village of Bhairogarh near Siddhavat has been famous for its tie and dye painting for centuries; in ancient times, when trade with other countries flourished, exquisitely printed cloth from Bhairogarh found its way to Rome and China.
9. Gadkalika
Situated about 2 miles from the city of Ujjain, the deity in this temple is believed to have been worshipped by Kalidasa. The legend goes that he was an idiot and that it is by his devotion that he came to be known as a great poet.
Because the Bhartrihari Caves sit just above the bank of the Shipra near this temple, the two are naturally visited together, and Pir Matsyendranath is close by as well.
10. Chintaman Ganesh temple
Built across the Shipra on the Fatehabad railway line, this temple enshrines a Ganesh idol supposed to be swayambhu, born of itself, and is believed to be of considerable antiquity. Riddhi and Siddhi, the consorts of Ganesha, are seated on either side of Ganesha.
The artistically carved pillars in the assembly hall date back to the Paramara period. Worshippers throng here because the deity is traditionally known as Chintaharan Ganesh, meaning "the assurer of freedom from worldly anxieties".
11. Bade Ganeshji Ka Mandir
This temple above the tank near the Mahakaleshwar temple enshrines a huge artistic sculpture of Ganesh, the son of Shiva; an idol of this size and beauty is rarely to be found. The middle of the temple is adorned by an idol of the pancha-mukhi (five faced) Hanuman.
There is provision for learning Sanskrit and astrology in the temple. Its position near the Mahakaleshwar temple makes it an easy addition to the same visit.
12. Navagraha Mandir (Triveni)
Situated on the Triveni Ghat of the Shipra, this temple is away from the old site of Ujjaini town and is dedicated to the nine planets. It attracts large crowds on new moon days falling on Saturdays.
Its religious importance has grown even though there is no known reference to it in the ancient texts. If your visit falls on a Saturday new moon, expect the ghat to be busy.
13. Durgadas Ki Chhatri
This distinctive monument stands in lush surrounding landscape. Vir Durgadas earned a secure place in the history of Marwad through his undaunting, selfless service to the State; he fought for the independence of Jodhpur after the death of Maharaj Jaswant Singh and helped Ajit Singh ascend the throne against the wishes of Aurangzeb.
Durgadas died at Rampura in 1718, and his funeral rites were performed according to his wishes on the banks of the Shipra. The rulers of Jodhpur built the chhatri to consecrate his memory; the structure, in the Rajpur style of architecture, houses a statue of Durgadas which crumbled down.
14. Sandalwala Building
This masterpiece was created in 1925 by Fida Husain Abdul Husain Sandalwala. The architectural marvel stands on R.P. Bhargav Marg of Ujjain and was built by the artisans of Ujjain and Jaipur.
From inside, the building looks more like a palace and is a landmark. Families of Mr. Fida Husain Sandalwala son of Late Asger Ali Sandalwala, Mr. Anis Sandalwala son of Late Abdul Husain Sandalwala and Mr. Firoz Sandalwala son of Late Inayat Husain Sandalwala reside in the building, so treat it as a residence you are passing rather than a site to tour.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Mahakaleshwar Temple, where the queues are shortest outside weekends and Mondays. When you come out, walk to Bade Ganeshji Ka Mandir above the tank nearby, then continue to Vikram Kirti Mandir for the manuscripts, paintings and archaeological museum.
Afternoon: Head to the riverbank for Bhartrihari Caves, Gadkalika and Pir Matsyendranath, which sit close together on the Shipra. Add Siddhavat for the banyan tree and the bathing ghat, and if time allows, look for the tie and dye work of the nearby village of Bhairogarh.
Evening: Go to Jantar Mantar (Vedh Shala), which is still in active use, and use the small planetarium and telescope. If the day is a Saturday new moon, finish at Navagraha Mandir (Triveni) on the Triveni Ghat, where crowds gather.
When is the Mahakaleshwar Temple most crowded?
It is crowded on weekends, including Mondays, when queues can take up to three hours and move at a slow pace. On ordinary days you are usually not required to wait in the queue to offer prayers at the Jyotirlinga.
Can I see the Jantar Mantar instruments in use?
Yes. Unlike the observatories in Delhi and Jaipur, the one at Ujjain is still in active use, and it is also used for weather forecasts. There is a small planetarium and a telescope for observing the Moon, Mars, Jupiter and their natural satellites.
Which sights sit close enough to combine?
The Bhartrihari Caves are just above the bank of the Shipra near the Gadkalika temple, and Pir Matsyendranath is quite close to both. Bade Ganeshji Ka Mandir is above the tank near the Mahakaleshwar temple.
What can I see at Vikram Kirti Mandir?
It houses the Scindia Oriental Research Institute, an archaeological museum, an art gallery and an auditorium. The institute holds 18,000 manuscripts, including palm leaf and bark leaf (Bhurja Patra) manuscripts, and the museum exhibits images, inscriptions, copper plates and fossils from the Narmada valley.
Decide which riverbank stretch matters most to you, set aside a morning for the Mahakal, and start laying out your days in Ujjain.