Stand at the edge of Rajawada at dusk and the city arranges itself around you: the seven-storey stone-and-wood facade of the old Holkar palace in front, the bustle of the old commercial heart behind, and the Khan river, with its cenotaphs, a short way off. Indore rewards a traveller who likes temples, palaces and long evenings in gardens more than tick-box sightseeing.
It suits anyone with a day or two to spare who is willing to move between the old city and the newer suburbs, and who does not mind that the most rewarding stops are spread out. This guide covers the sights and experiences the sources describe, plus a one-day plan that strings the strongest of them together.
Top things to do in Indore
1. Rajawada
Synonymous with the heart of Indore city, Rajawada is a 200-year-old, seven-storey historic palace of the Holkars, built in a mixture of Muslim, Maratha and French styles. The lower three floors are made of stone and the upper floors of wood, which made it vulnerable to fire; it burnt three times, most damagingly in 1984, and today only the front facade remains, though renovations have recreated some of its old glory.
Come here first to orient yourself, and pair it with the Chhatris, which sit on the Khan river banks near Rajawada.
2. Chhatris
These are the tombs or cenotaphs erected in memory of dead Holkar rulers and their family members, picturesquely poised on the Khan river banks near Rajawada and described as incomparable in terms of Maratha architecture and sculpture of their period. At Chhatri Baag is the main collection of tombs, housed in two compounds.
Close by is the Bolia Sarkar's Chhatri, constructed in 1858 AD in memory of Sardar Chimnaji Appa Sahib Bolia. Combine the two in a single walk.
3. Lal Baag Palace
One of the grandest monuments the Holkar dynasty left Indore, a reflection of their taste, grandeur and lifestyle. Its construction began in 1886 under Tukoji Rao Holkar II and was carried out in three phases, the final one completed in 1921 under Tukoji Rao Holkar III. Many royal receptions were held here, and at one time it had the reputation of having one of the best rose gardens in the country.
Give it a slow visit rather than a quick stop, since the palace and its grounds are the point.
4. Khajrana Ganesh Temple
The citizens of Indore have great faith in this Ganesh temple, built during the reign of Ahilyabai Holkar, and it is believed that all wishes are fulfilled by praying here. Nearby is the dargah of Nahar Sayed, an important pilgrimage place for Maita Muslims.
Visit the temple and the dargah together, since they are next to one another.
5. Kanch Mandir
This Jain temple is an architectural marvel in glass: the walls, ceilings, floors, pillars and door knobs are entirely inlaid with glass, and even the paintings are done in glass. Atop is a special glass chamber which multiplies the three statues of Lord Shantinath, Aadinath and Mahavira installed there into an indefinite number, said to be visible up to 24 times, corresponding to the 24 tirthankaras.
Look up at the glass chamber rather than only at floor level, as that is where the effect is created.
6. Bada Ganpati
Better known for its size than its antiquity, this temple houses perhaps the largest Ganesh idol in the world, measuring 25 feet from crown to foot. It was created as a result of the dream of an Avantika (Ujjain) resident, Shri Dadhich, and was built in 1875.
It is a short, focused stop, so fit it in alongside other old-city sights rather than making a separate trip.
7. Annapurna Temple
This is a famous temple of the goddess of food; the name Annapurna means "anna", which literally means food, and the people in town have great faith in the temple. The temple is made with beautiful colourful work done at the entrance gate.
Take your time at the entrance gate, which is the most decorated part of the building.
8. Central Museum
The Indore Museum houses the finest collection of Parmar sculptures from Hinglajgarh. The Parmar style originated here and is characterised by proportioned figures, carefully and ornately depicted in stone. The museum is also known for its collection of coins, arms and armour.
This is the stop to choose if you want the sculptural and historical context behind the city's temples and palaces.
9. Town Hall
Built in 1904 as the King Edwards Hall, it was renamed Mahatma Gandhi Hall in 1948. Its architectural style is Indo-Gothic, and it is made in Seoni stone; its domes and staples are a landmark of Indore today. It has a four-faced clock tower in front, because of which it is locally known as Ghanta Ghar, and it is frequently the venue for the various book and painting exhibitions, fairs and festivals held throughout the year. The building also has a library, a children's park and a temple.
Check whether an exhibition or fair is on during your visit, as that is when the building is at its liveliest.
10. Gomatgiri
On a hill 10–12 km away from the heart of the city, the Jain Samaj has constructed a 21-foot statue of Lord Gomateshwar, a replica of the Bahubali statue of Shravanbelagola. Also built here are 24 marble temples with shilars for each tirthankar.
This place offers a breathtaking view of Indore city by night, so time your visit for the evening.
11. Geeta Bhawan
One of the most famous temples in the city, located near the heart of town at Palasia. You can find idols of almost all gods and goddesses here, and the peace found here is unique.
Its central location makes it an easy addition to a day that already includes the Palasia area.
12. Vaishnav Dhaam
A famous temple of the goddess, beautifully constructed in white and located away from the city traffic. The idols here are very beautiful to see.
Go when you want a quieter stop between the busier old-city sights.
13. Venkatesh Temple (Laxmi Venkatesh Temple)
At 36, Chattribagh, this is where India's third largest and largest Rath-yatra procession is carried, with thousands of people participating. The temple was built 50 years before in the middle of Indore city by Nagoriya Pithdishwar.
If your visit coincides with the Rath-yatra, expect crowds and plan around them.
14. Regional Park, Pipliapala Lake (Rajiv Gandhi Square)
Developed by the Indore Development Authority on the banks of the ancient Pipliyapala lake, this is described as the most beautiful park in town. The park is divided into four parts, with the lake renewed and fitted with five jet-fountains which at night create a beautiful atmosphere with their light effects. It includes a Mughal garden, a French garden, an open-air amphitheatre and an artistic village area, and water sports are practised in the lake. It is open 9AM–10PM.
The light work at night is the main draw, so arrive in the evening rather than the afternoon.
15. Meghdoot Uapvan, Vijay Nagar
A huge garden with a fountain show, planted with many kinds of plants and flowers. It brings you close to nature within the city itself and is a lovely point for couples.
Pair it with an evening in Vijay Nagar rather than crossing town for it alone.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Rajawada, the seven-storey Holkar palace at the heart of the old city, then walk to the Chhatris on the Khan river banks nearby, including Bolia Sarkar's Chhatri at Chhatri Baag. Continue to Bada Ganpati and the Annapurna Temple, both compact stops in the same part of town.
Afternoon: Move on to Lal Baag Palace and give the palace and its grounds proper time. If you want the historical and sculptural background to what you have seen, add the Central Museum, then stop at Town Hall (Ghanta Ghar) on the way back through the centre.
Evening: Head to Gomatgiri for the 21-foot statue of Lord Gomateshwar, the 24 marble temples and the view of the city by night. Finish at Regional Park, Pipliapala Lake, where the five jet-fountains and their light effects are at their best after dark; it stays open until 10PM.
Frequently asked questions
When is the best time of day to visit Gomatgiri and Regional Park?
Both are evening stops. Gomatgiri offers a breathtaking view of Indore city by night, and the jet-fountains at Regional Park create their light effects at night. Regional Park is open 9AM–10PM.
Which sights can I combine in a single walk?
Rajawada and the Chhatris, since the cenotaphs are on the Khan river banks near Rajawada. Khajrana Ganesh Temple and the nearby dargah of Nahar Sayed also sit together.
Where can I see glasswork and sculpture in Indore?
Kanch Mandir is the glass temple, with walls, ceilings, floors, pillars and door knobs entirely inlaid with glass. For stone sculpture, the Central Museum houses the finest collection of Parmar sculptures from Hinglajgarh.
Is there a temple associated with a large procession in the city?
Yes. The Venkatesh Temple (Laxmi Venkatesh Temple) at 36, Chattribagh is where India's third largest and largest Rath-yatra procession is carried, with thousands of people taking part.
Decide which of these you want most, check the day's timing around Regional Park's 9AM–10PM opening, and start building your Indore itinerary.