Stand on the slope path up Devi ki Tekri and the city spreads out below you in low rooftops and wind-blown dust, with the shrine of Chamunda Mata cut into the rock at the summit. Dewas is a working Malwa town rather than a tourist circuit, and it rewards travellers who are already passing between Indore and Ujjain and want a half-day that is not a set piece.
It suits independent travellers with their own transport or a willingness to use the rail junction, and anyone interested in the Maratha princely states, since the old division of the town between two administrations still shapes how people talk about it. This guide covers the sights the sources describe, and how to string them into a single day.
Top things to do in Dewas
1. Devi ki Tekri
The hill known as Tekri gives the city its name, and its summit holds the shrine of Chamunda Mata, with the image of the goddess cut into the wall of a cave known as Devi Vashini. In the south of the Tekri is the temple of Tulja Mata, whose half statue is kept there; Tulja and Chamunda are regarded as sisters. The hill is also the Devi Vashini hill from which the name Dewas, meaning abode of the gods, is derived.
You can climb it two ways, by steps or by a slope. The slope route is longer but easier going, and is the better choice in the heat of the day. Allow time at the top rather than treating it as a quick stop.
2. Mitha Talab
Mitha Talab is the lake named among the city's sights, and it makes a calm counterpart to the climb up the Tekri. Come here to slow down, sit by the water and watch the town go about its evening.
Pair it with Devi ki Tekri in the same outing, since the two are the sights the sources single out in Dewas, and the lake is best at the end of the day when the light softens.
3. The old main street and its two administrations
Dewas was the seat of two princely states, Dewas Junior and Dewas Senior, ruled by the Pawar clan of the Marathas, and the arrangement persisted in the capital town itself: the two sides of the main street were managed by separate administrations, each with its own systems for water and lighting, until the states were merged in the 20th century.
Walking the main street with that in mind turns an ordinary errand into the most distinctive thing about the city. Look out for how the town is laid out rather than for any single monument, and combine the walk with a stop at Mitha Talab.
4. The Maratha and princely-state legacy
The territory of Dewas was granted to the brothers Tukoji Rao (Senior) and Jivaji Rao (Junior) of the Pawar clan in 1728, after they served as commanders under Peshwa Baji Rao I in the Maratha conquest of the Malwa region. The family had earlier been honoured with the hereditary titles Sena Sapt Sahasri and Vishwas Rao.
This history is the thread that ties the town together, and it is worth reading up on before you arrive so that the twin-state story makes sense on the ground. The durbars of both states were composed of Sardars, Mankaris, Istamuradars, Thakurs and Jagirdars.
5. Dewas Junction and the rail approach
Dewas Junction, station code DWX, is the city's main railway junction, on the Indore–Gwalior line and connected to Indore Junction and Ujjain Junction by an electrified line. Arriving by train puts you directly into the everyday rhythm of the place.
Use the junction as your anchor for a day trip: it makes Dewas easy to slot between Indore and Ujjain without committing to an overnight stay.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start early and climb Devi ki Tekri by the slope route, which is longer but easier than the steps. Spend time at the summit shrine of Chamunda Mata and at the temple of Tulja Mata on the southern side before the day heats up.
Afternoon: Come down and walk the old main street, keeping in mind that its two sides were once run by separate administrations with their own water and lighting. This is the best way to read the town's princely-state history without any single site to visit.
Evening: Finish at Mitha Talab, sitting by the water as the light goes and the day's heat leaves the Malwa plateau.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Dewas?
Dewas Junction (DWX) is the main railway junction, on the Indore–Gwalior line and linked to Indore Junction and Ujjain Junction by an electrified line. The city is also connected to major cities by national and state highways.
How do I climb Devi ki Tekri?
There are two routes, one by steps and one by a slope. The slope way is longer but easier to climb.
What is there to see at the top of the Tekri?
The shrine of Chamunda Mata, with the goddess's image cut into the wall of a cave known as Devi Vashini, and, to the south of the Tekri, the temple of Tulja Mata with its half statue of the goddess.
Why is the city called Dewas?
The name is believed to be a sandhi of Dev, meaning deity, and Vas, meaning abode in Marathi, so Dewas means abode of the gods. It is derived from the Devi Vashini hill in the city, commonly known as Tekri.
Check the rail connections from Indore or Ujjain, set aside a morning for the Tekri, and you have enough to plan a day in Dewas.