Stand at the foot of Taragarh Hill in the early morning and the city arranges itself around you: the white domes of the dargah below, the long ridge of the Aravalli Range behind, and the streets of the old town filling with traffic between them. Ajmer sits at the centre of Rajasthan, which is why it is nicknamed the Heart of Rajasthan, and it has been a place of pilgrimage and patronage since the Chahamana rulers built their hill fort above the valley.
The city suits travellers who are interested in layered history and in the practice of pilgrimage rather than in polished sightseeing circuits. Much of what is worth your time here is religious architecture, and some of it asks something of you: covered heads, covered shoulders, patience with crowds and with touts.
This guide covers the sights within Ajmer itself, the hill above it, and the short trip to Pushkar that most visitors combine with a stay here. It is arranged so that you can plan a single full day, or spread the same places across two or three.
Top things to do in Ajmer
1. Ajmer Sharif Dargah
The shrine of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti stands at the foot of Taragarh Hill and is the reason many people come to Ajmer at all. It consists of several white marble buildings arranged around two courtyards, including a massive gate donated by the Nizam of Hyderabad and the Akbari Mosque, built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, which contains the domed tomb of the saint. Mughal emperors made pilgrimages here, and Akbar and his queen came on foot from Agra each year in observance of a vow.
Entry is free, but you should pay the people watching your shoes a small amount. Men and women must cover their heads, and women must cover their shoulders; women are advised not to enter the shrine in western clothes. Priests are available to act as guides and to perform ceremonies at the shrine, and the beggars in the Dargah Bazaar can be quite persistent. The Urs of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti is celebrated every year on the 6th and 7th of Rajab.
2. Adhai Din Ka Jhonpra
Literally meaning "shed of two-and-a-half days", this is an ASI protected monument near Ajmer Sharif Dargah. It is a converted mosque built after the partial destruction of earlier Hindu and Jain temples on the site, and a prashasti issued by Vigraharaja IV was found here.
Because it sits close to the dargah, the sensible approach is to visit the two together in one outing rather than treating them as separate trips across town.
3. Taragarh Fort
Taragarh Fort is reputed to be the oldest hill fort in India, standing with precipitous surroundings on the summit of Taragarh Hill and overlooking Ajmer. It was the seat of the Chauhan rulers, built by King Ajaypal Chauhan, and it is partially enclosed by a wall some 20 feet thick and as many high, built of huge blocks of stone cut and squared, running about two miles in circumference. Within it stands the shrine of a Muhammadan saint, Saiyid Husain, known as the Ganj Shahldan.
When it fell to the British Raj the fort was dismantled on the orders of Lord William Bentinck in 1832 and converted into a sanatorium for British troops stationed at the garrison town of Nasirabad. In the older, now abandoned city in the valley beneath the hill, the Nur-chashma, a garden-house used by the Mughals, still remains, as does a water-lift commenced by Maldeo Rathor to raise water to the Taragarh citadel.
4. Akbari Fort and Museum
Emperor Akbar's royal residence now serves as a museum, which houses a collection of Mughal and Rajput armour and some fine sculptures. Ajmer came under the Mughal Empire in 1556 after Akbar conquered it, and the city enjoyed special favour under the Mughals, who endowed it with constructions such as Akbar's palace.
This is an indoor stop, which makes it a useful option in the middle of the day or when the weather turns.
5. Ana Sagar Lake
The lake's dam was built by the grandfather of Emperor Prithviraj Chouhan. Daulat Bag is an enormous park by the side of Ana Sagar and is a nice place to relax; there are marble monuments by the shore and plenty of ice cream and papad-wallahs selling snacks. There is apparently boat rental, though other than a bumper boats tank.
Mughal emperors and their nobles endowed the city with pavilions along the Ana Sagar, so the shoreline is worth walking rather than just viewing from one spot.
6. Ajmer Jain temple (Soni Ji Ki Nasiyaan)
This Jain temple was built in the 19th century on the way to Ana Sagar and is quite beautiful from the outside. It holds a gold model of the city of Ayodhya, the birthplace of the Hindu lord Ram.
Usual temple protocols apply. Its position on the road to Ana Sagar makes it easy to fold into the same outing as the lake.
7. Shah Jahan Mosque
This mosque is the most beautiful of all the structures in the Dargah precinct. It is made of white marble, delicately carved with trellis-work.
Since it stands within the dargah area, see it as part of your visit to Ajmer Sharif Dargah rather than as a separate stop.
8. Prithviraj Smarak
A park dedicated to Emperor Prithviraj Chouhan of the 11th century. It is a quiet counterweight to the crowded shrine and bazaar streets.
Pair it with Ana Sagar Lake, since both are places to slow down rather than to tick off.
9. Nareli
A Jain place on the outskirts, at Sri Dnyanoday Tirtha Area, Gyanoday Nagar, on the Kishangarh bypass. It has a very big temple and offers authentic Jain food.
You have to check the meal hours in advance, as they are strict about serving meals only in those hours.
10. Brahma Temple, Pushkar
You must go to Pushkar to visit this Brahma Temple near Pushkar Lake. Pushkar is located a few kilometres from Ajmer and is an important tourist and pilgrimage destination as well as a satellite town of Ajmer city. It is famous for the Pushkar Lake and the 14th century Brahma Temple at Pushkar, dedicated to Brahma, and according to the Padma Purana it is regarded as the only major shrine dedicated to the deity.
While you are there, go shopping in the narrow but ethnic and colourful lanes of the marketplace, and eat traditional foods as well as international delicacies in the numerous eateries.
11. Happy Valley
This is worth considering only if it is the rainy season and you do not have older members in your group.
Treat it as a conditional addition to your plans rather than a fixed stop.
12. Taragarh Hill
The hill has a shrine, and it is the second highest peak in Rajasthan. The city lies on its lower slopes, and the Nagapathar Range of the Aravalli Mountain Ranges lies to the northwest, protecting Ajmer from desertification from the Thar Desert.
Walking the hill gives you the view back over the valley that makes sense of the city's layout.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at Ajmer Sharif Dargah, covering your head and shoulders before you go in and expecting the Dargah Bazaar to be busy. From there, walk to Adhai Din Ka Jhonpra, which is nearby, and then to the Shah Jahan Mosque within the dargah precinct.
Afternoon. Move on to Akbari Fort and Museum for the armour and sculpture collections, then head to Ana Sagar Lake and Daulat Bag, where you can walk the shore, see the marble monuments and pick up snacks from the ice cream and papad-wallahs. Stop at the Ajmer Jain temple (Soni Ji Ki Nasiyaan) on the way, since it sits on the road to the lake.
Evening. Finish at Prithviraj Smarak, the park dedicated to Emperor Prithviraj Chouhan, as a quiet end to a day that has been mostly crowded and mostly religious.
Frequently asked questions
What should I wear at Ajmer Sharif Dargah?
Men and women must cover their heads, and women must cover their shoulders. Women are advised not to enter the shrine in western clothes.
Is there an entry fee at the dargah?
Entry is free, but you should pay the people watching your shoes a small amount. Priests are available to act as guides and to perform ceremonies at the shrine.
When is the Urs of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti held?
It is celebrated every year on the 6th and 7th of Rajab.
Can I visit Pushkar from Ajmer?
Yes. Pushkar is located a few kilometres from Ajmer and is a satellite town of Ajmer city, with the Pushkar Lake and the 14th century Brahma Temple at Pushkar as its main draws.
Decide which of these you want most, check the meal hours at Nareli and the season for Happy Valley, and you have enough to start planning your days in Ajmer.