Stand on the lane beside the Lingaraja Temple at first light and you will hear the old town before you see it: bells, bicycle rickshaws, and the low murmur of people moving between shrines that have stood here for centuries. Bhubaneswar's historic core is a dense cluster of Kalinga-style temples linked by narrow lanes, best covered on foot with an auto-rickshaw for the longer hops.
The city suits travellers who are happy to spend a day walking between stone carvings rather than ticking off big-ticket sights, and who do not mind that some temples admit Hindus only. This guide covers the major temples of the old town, the Jain and Buddhist sites on the city's edge, and how to string the best of them into a single day.
Top things to do in Bhubaneswar
1. Lingaraja Temple
The 10th or 11th-century Lingaraja Temple is the centrepiece of the old town, its 55 m tower covered in elaborate carvings. Non-Hindus are not permitted inside, but an elevated viewing platform next to one of the boundary walls gives a good vantage point for photographs.
To reach the platform, face the temple's main entrance and walk around to the right, where a laneway leads to the back of the temple. Shoes, cameras, mobile phones and bags are prohibited inside the complex and must be left at the counter on the left. Be aware of scammers at the viewing platform who claim to be in charge of the temple and press visitors to sign a "guestbook" and donate; firmly refuse and they will leave you alone. Combine your visit with Bindu Sarovara, the large lake near the temple.
2. Muktesvara Temple
Built in 996 CE, the Muktesvara Temple marks the transition between the early and later phases of Kalinga architecture. Its highlight is the magnificent torana, a decorative arched gateway with projected elephant heads on both sides, decorated with floral designs and figures including female figures, monkeys and gaja-singha.
The temple consists of a jagmohan, or assembly area, crowned with a stepped pyramid, and a biman housing the inner sanctum, crowned with a towering spire. The Siddheshwara Temple stands in the same complex. Entry is free, with offerings accepted.
3. Parasuramesvara Temple
Dating to 650 AD, the Parasuramesvara Temple is the oldest surviving temple in Bhubaneswar, and the earliest example of Odisha temple architecture. Its outer walls are covered with intricate carvings depicting religious and social scenes, and a giant Shivalinga stands next to the entrance.
The temple is next to the Mukteshwara Temple, so the two are easily seen together. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva and consists of a biman and a jagmohan, the latter added at a later date. Entry is free.
4. Rajarani Temple
The Rajarani Temple takes its name from the red-gold sandstone used in its construction, known locally as Rajarani. It is an abandoned temple with no presiding deity, and its spires of several sub-spires resemble the temples of Khajuraho.
The star attraction is the intricately carved exterior, which runs from floral and geometric patterns to Yakshis and gods. Among the exterior carvings are female figures, many in erotic postures. The Bhaskareswar Temple lies east of the Rajarani Temple, on the opposite side of the road.
5. Ananta Vasudeva Temple
This 13th-century temple stands on the eastern side of Bindu Saravar and is dedicated to Lord Krishna, worshipped here along with Balaram and Subhadra. It is the only old temple of Vishnu in the city and a classic example of Odisha temple architecture, with a Bhog Mandap, Nat Mandir, Jogmohan and the Biman housing the inner sanctum.
The outer walls contain intricate sculptures, many severely damaged, and the temple is poorly maintained, with smoke from the wood fires used to cook bhog having blackened much of the yellow sandstone. Visit it as part of a circuit of the Bindu Sarovar temples.
6. Bhaskareswar Temple
Built during the reign of the Ganga Dynasty, this 12th-century temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and consists of only the vimana, standing on a 4-m-high platform. Doors on all four sides of the platform give access to the interior, which houses a giant Shiva Linga.
The exterior lacks ornamentation, with only three statues on the outer wall, of Parvati, Kartikeya and Ganesha. It sits in open space east of the Rajarani Temple.
7. Megheswar Temple
Megheswar Temple is at a trijunction east of Bhaskareswar Temple, housed inside a walled complex with a large open space containing a rectangular tank. Built in the late 12th century CE, it is dedicated to Lord Shiva and consists of two interconnecting parts, the jagmohan and the vimana.
The exterior walls are decorated with intricate sculpted images, including dancing females and animals such as lions, elephants and yalis, though many are badly damaged. The entrance is flanked with sculptures of nag and nagani and topped with sculptures of the nine planets.
8. Bramehswara Temple
Located south of Bhaskareswar Temple and built in 1058 CE, Bramehswara Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The main shrine is enclosed in a wall and consists of two connecting parts, the jagmohan and the vimana, which towers to a height of 18.96 m.
The jagmohan, or assembly hall, is topped with a stepped pyramid, and the walled complex also holds four subsidiary shrines in its corners. It fits naturally into a walk that takes in Bhaskareswar and Megheswar.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at the Lingaraja Temple, walking around to the right of the main entrance to reach the elevated viewing platform, then continue to Bindu Sarovara and the Ananta Vasudeva Temple on its eastern side.
Afternoon: Move on to the Muktesvara Temple and the Parasuramesvara Temple beside it, then take an auto-rickshaw to the Rajarani Temple. From there, walk to the Bhaskareswar Temple across the road, the Megheswar Temple at the trijunction east of it, and the Bramehswara Temple to the south.
Evening: Return to the old town lanes around Bindu Sarovara for a slower walk as the light drops, with the option of revisiting the Lingaraja Temple viewing platform.
Frequently asked questions
Can non-Hindus enter the temples in Bhubaneswar?
Some temples, including Lingaraja and Kapileswar, do not allow entry to non-Hindus. At the Lingaraja Temple there is an elevated viewing platform next to one of the boundary walls that non-Hindus can use.
How long do you need to see the temples?
Covering all the major temples listed here can take a minimum of three to four days. Exploring all of them in one go makes for a long and tiring day.
What is the best way to get around the old town temples?
The major temples apart from the Chausathi Yogini Temple are concentrated in the old town area centred around Bindu Sarovar, spread over a small area and connected by an intricate network of lanes and bylanes. They are best explored with a combination of walks and auto-rickshaw rides.
What should you leave behind when visiting the temples?
At the Lingaraja Temple complex, shoes, cameras, mobile phones and bags are prohibited and must be submitted at the counter on the left.
Use this outline to sketch your own route through the old town, and check each temple's details before you set out.