Navigating the Four Lakes of Srinagar by Shikara

Srinagar, India

By the Travel Wiki editorial team

Float Through Dal Lake on a Shikara and Discover Four Lakes in One

Step into a shikara—a beautifully decorated boat—and let the boatman navigate you across Dal Lake, where the water opens before you like a geography lesson come alive. What looks like one vast expanse is actually four distinct lakes: Gagribal in the south, Lokut Dal in the north, Bod Dal in the centre, and Nagin, the smallest and most serene, separated from the rest by a narrow channel on the western side. The lake covers 21 square kilometres and wraps itself around the base of Hari Parbat hill, making the water feel less like a destination and more like the city's living heart.

This is where Srinagar reveals itself layer by layer. Navigate the floating markets—called rad—where matted vegetation and earth islands bob on the water, anchored in place so locals can grow tomatoes, cucumbers and melons right on the lake's surface. Watch a shikara skipper thread through the narrow channels between these cultivation patches, a skill passed down through generations. Visit the floating shops lining the water, run from boats and stacked with Kashmiri carpets, shawls, wood carvings and saffron; many double as working workshops where you can watch weavers at their craft. Don't miss Rupa Lank and Sona Lank—two square islands, each anchored by four giant chinar trees at its corners, their formal geometry a striking contrast to the organic tangle of the gardens and waterways around them.

Take your time here. The lake is best explored slowly, letting the shikara drift past Nagin Lake's houseboats and floating gardens, where the pace of life feels set by seasons and water levels rather than clocks.

Walk Through Mughal Gardens Where Paradise Was Built to Last

The Mughal emperors who ruled Kashmir imagined the valley as paradise itself, and they built three gardens to prove it. Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh and Chashme Shahi each answer the same question differently: what does perfection look like when it is sculpted into a hillside overlooking water?

Shalimar Bagh stands on the northeast corner of Dal Lake, built by Jahangir in 1619 as a gift to his wife Nur Jahan. Walk its three terraced levels and you move through the spaces of imperial life: the lowest terrace holds the Diwan-e-Aam, where the public could approach the throne; the middle terrace contains the Diwan-e-Khas, for private court; the uppermost terrace is the Zenana pavilion, the harem garden hidden behind its own screen of walls. A central water channel runs the length of the garden, interrupted by fountains and pools that catch the light. The chinar trees that line the pathways grow so old they seem to hold the silence of centuries.

Nishat Bagh, designed in 1633 by Asaf Khan (brother of Nur Jahan), spreads across the eastern banks of Dal Lake with the Zabarwan Mountains rising behind it. This garden broke with Mughal tradition by stretching long and narrow across the hillside instead of following the formal square plan—a practical choice made beautiful. Twelve terraces cascade downward, each one representing a sign of the zodiac, and the water channel cuts east to west with the precision of an architect who understood how light and shadow would move across stone.

Chashme Shahi, the smallest of the three, sits on the southeastern edge of Dal Lake and draws its name from a natural spring at its uppermost terrace. Water flows downward through three terraces, and local tradition says it holds curative properties for stomach ailments. Built by Ali Mardan Khan in 1632–33, it offers an intimate view of the lake and valley that the larger gardens, for all their grandeur, cannot match.

Explore Centuries of Sacred Architecture in Srinagar's Mosques and Shrines

Srinagar's religious buildings layer history like geological strata—each century of rule, faith and conversion visible in what remains standing.

The Jamia Masjid at Nowhatta was built in 1402 by Sultan Sikandar Shahmiri and stands as one of the first monumental constructions of the sultanate period. Its design—an Iranian four-iwan plan executed in deodar wood carved in local patterns borrowed from Hindu temples—shows Kashmir making Islamic architecture its own. This mosque has been the stage for centuries of religious and political debate, a space where the valley's competing faiths and powers have clashed and coexisted.

The Khanqah-e-Moula, also known as the Shah Hamadan Mosque, was built in 1397 and represents the finest Kashmiri wooden architecture, its surfaces decorated with papier-mâché. It was built in memory of the Sufi preacher Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani and stands as Kashmir's first khanqah—a mosque associated with a particular saint's shrine. Across the Jhelum River opposite it stands the Pathar Masjid, a stone mosque built by Empress Nur Jahan in 1623, its solid form a contrast to the wooden intricacy of its neighbour.

Hazratbal Mosque sits on the western bank of Lokut Dal, the northern section of Dal Lake, its white walls visible from across the water. It houses a strand believed to be from the Prophet's beard, displayed on special days. From the mosque compound you can see Sona Lank, the island with four chinar trees, and then walk to the food stalls that cluster in the adjoining area, selling deep-fried snacks.

The Dastgeer Sahib shrine in Khanyar holds the relics of Abdul Qadir Jeelani, a saint who earned reverence across the subcontinent despite never having visited the region—a testament to how faith moves across distance.

Step Into the Tulip Garden and the Botanical Park for Seasonal Splendour

The Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden sprawls across 30 hectares on the eastern side of Dal Lake at the foothill of the Zabarwan Range, making it Asia's largest tulip garden. It opened in 2007 with 1.5 million bulbs flown in from Amsterdam. Walk among 65 varieties of tulip, along with daffodils, hyacinth and ranunculus. The garden overlooks the lake below, and if you visit in April during the Tulip Festival, you will see the hillside transformed into what looks like a painted canvas laid flat.

The Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Botanical Garden sits off Dal Gate and offers a quieter, year-round alternative. The J&K Tourism department runs a beverage shop here serving Kahva, a traditional Kashmir drink—a simple cup of spiced tea that tastes like warmth.

Walk the Old City and Work Through Srinagar's Layers at Street Level

The centre of Srinagar runs narrow and dense, where the city's real life—its commerce, its politics, its daily rhythms—moves along streets that have followed the same routes for centuries. The old city was divided into separate neighbourhoods, each with its own guardian deity, and that fractal pattern of distinct quarters persists in how Srinagar still organizes itself.

The Jhelum River runs through the city and the neighbourhoods cluster along its banks and the shores of the lakes. Shopkeepers sell Kashmiri shawls made of pashmina and cashmere wool, papier-mâché work, carpets, wood carvings and jewellery—trades that took root here during the sultanate period when rulers actively built the industries that would define the city. The floating hawkers on Dal Lake sell the same goods from boats, but the land-based bazaars offer a denser, more tactile experience: you can watch artisans at work, negotiate directly with weavers and makers, and move through neighbourhoods where the architecture itself—wooden havelis with carved balconies, courtyards hidden behind high walls—tells the story of centuries of habitation.

Srinagar asks to be visited slowly, by boat and on foot, in spring when the gardens are in bloom or in autumn when the chinar trees turn gold. Reserve time to drift on the lake, to sit in a garden's shade, to watch light move across a mosque's wooden facade, to taste a warm cup of Kahva at the edge of the water. Start planning your journey now—the city has been waiting since the 6th century for visitors willing to pay attention.

Sources

  1. Srinagar
  2. Wikivoyage: Srinagar

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