Stand on the plaza in front of Kuto Besak in the late afternoon and the Musi River opens up in front of you, with the Ampera Bridge carrying traffic between the two halves of the city and floating eateries drifting along the eastern side of the span. Palembang is a river city first, and much of what is worth your time sits within sight of the water.
It suits travellers who are interested in Srivijaya, the Sultanate and the layers of Chinese, Malay and colonial history that followed, and who are happy to plan a day around a bridge, a mosque, a museum and a boat ride rather than a checklist of resorts. Traffic, floods and pollution are noted problems in the city, so build slack into any plan that crosses the river.
This guide covers the main landmarks, museums and heritage sites, then strings the strongest of them into a single day.
Top things to do in Palembang
1. Ampera Bridge
The first bridge to cross the Musi River in Palembang, and the longest in Indonesia when it opened in 1965. It was built as a vertical-lift bascule bridge, though its central span stopped being lifted only several years after opening. It remains the most prominent landmark in the city, sitting right at its heart and connecting the two banks.
There is no charge to walk or cross it, and it is open around the clock. The riverfront plazas at Kuto Besak and 16 Ilir on the northern bank are the usual places to linger and take in the bridge and the late afternoon breeze, so combine a crossing with time on the waterfront. The Ampera LRT stop puts you at the bridge and within reach of several of the sights below.
2. Grand Mosque of Palembang
Also known as Masjid Agung Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin Jayo Wikramo, this mosque was first opened in 1748 and has been renovated and significantly expanded several times since. The original praying hall and minaret sit on the western side of the compound, away from the main street, and show a mix of Palembang Malay, Chinese and European architectural styles. The expanded praying hall was built around the original building, with pyramidal roofs and a taller, slimmer minaret.
Admission is free. It sits on Jl. Jend. Sudirman in 19 Ilir, Bukit Kecil, close to the Ampera LRT stop, and the People's Struggle Monument is directly opposite, which makes the two easy to pair in one stop.
3. Kuto Besak
A walled compound from the Sultanate era on the northern side of the Musi River, originally completed in 1797. It now serves as headquarters for the regional command of the Indonesian National Forces, so the compound itself is closed to the public. The enormous open plaza in front of it functions as the city's main square, and it is here that the 3 Belido Fish Monument stands, dedicated to a protected endemic species that used to be the main ingredient in local delicacies.
The plaza area is free and open from 06:00 to 22:00. It is also the departure point for motorboat trips along the river and across to the opposite bank, so you can pair a walk on the square with a boat ride from the piers here.
4. Musi River
The river is the thread that ties the city together, and spending time on it is one of the best ways to understand Palembang. On the northern bank, the riverfront Kuto Besak and 16 Ilir plazas overlooking the Musi and the Ampera Bridge are popular with local families, youngsters and visitors who come for the late afternoon breeze. A row of warung terapung, floating eateries, sits on the east side of the bridge and serves local delicacies.
From the piers at Kuto Besak you can take motorboat trips to various destinations along the river. Prices vary widely depending on the length of the trip and the number of passengers; a trip just across the river or so, under 2 km, usually costs Rp5,000 per person. Late afternoon is the natural time to be on the water or watching it.
5. Kemaro Island
A riverine island that has served many purposes over the centuries, from an outpost of the Sultanate to a detention camp for political prisoners, and now a destination for cultural and religious tourism. It holds a Buddhist compound made up of the Hok Tjing Bio Temple and the nine-storey Kemaro Island Pagoda. The city's annual Lantern Festival, Cap Go Meh, is centred on the compound, and during the celebration the northern side of the island is temporarily connected to the mainland by a pontoon bridge.
Reach it by a 30-minute motorboat trip from the Kuto Besak piers, which makes it a natural extension of time spent on the riverfront. Check the timing of Cap Go Meh if you want to see the island at its busiest.
6. Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum
This municipal museum sits on top of the remnants of Kuto Lamo, which was the royal court of the Sultanate before it moved to Kuto Besak. The current building, in traditional Palembang limasan architecture, was used as an office for the Dutch colonial resident, and it now showcases the history of the city from the Srivijaya era through the colonial period.
It is on Jl. Sultan Mahmud Badarudin in 19 Ilir, Bukit Kecil, at the Ampera LRT stop. Opening hours are 08:00 to 17:00 on weekdays and 09:00 to 17:00 on weekends and public holidays. Admission is Rp5,000 for general admission and Rp20,000 for foreign tourists.
7. People's Struggle Monument (Monpera)
Inaugurated in 1988 to commemorate the struggle for Indonesian independence in Palembang, this brutalist-style building stands opposite the Grand Mosque. Inside there is a museum displaying artifacts and historical photos related to the Five-Day and Five-Night Battle in Palembang in 1947, and there is a dancing fountain in the monument's courtyard.
It is on Jl. Merdeka in 19 Ilir, Bukit Kecil, at the Ampera LRT stop, and open from 08:00 to 18:00. Admission is Rp5,000. Because it faces the Grand Mosque, the two are best visited together.
8. Balaputradewa Museum
The state museum of South Sumatra province, with displays ranging from prehistoric megaliths to Srivijayan-era statues and inscriptions. The complex also holds an iconic Palembang limasan house that appeared on the pre-2016 Rp10,000 banknote, and staff may lend you a copy of that old note so you can photograph it alongside the real house.
It is on Jl. Srijaya in Srijaya, Alang-Alang Lebar, a 700 m or 10-minute walk from the RSUD LRT stop. It opens 08:30 to 15:30 Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays and public holidays. Admission is Rp5,000 for general admission and Rp15,000 for foreign tourists.
9. Bukit Seguntang
A low hill widely regarded as one of the most important sacred sites associated with the Srivijaya Empire. Archaeological finds and local tradition point to it as a spiritual centre, and it is believed to have been occupied as early as the 7th century. Today it is a landscaped park with a number of revered tombs linked to legendary Malay figures, which makes it both a historical site and a place of cultural pilgrimage.
You can climb a series of steps to the summit, where statues and viewpoints give a sense of the area's significance. Little monumental architecture remains, so go for the setting and the tombs rather than for buildings.
10. Ki Gede ing Suro Cemetery Complex
A temple-like complex of seven structures built from brick and white stone, with an artistic style reflecting Majapahit influence from the 15th to 16th centuries. Gilded bronze statues from the Srivijayan era were discovered at the site, and it was used as an Islamic burial ground around the 16th century by the noble family of Ki Gede ing Suro, progenitor of the Palembang sultans.
It is on Jl. Ratu Sianum, Lorong H Umar, in 1 Ilir, Ilir Timur II, roughly a 5 km or 20-minute drive from the city centre. Plan it as a separate stop rather than something to fold into a walk around the main square.
11. Sriwijaya Kingdom Archaeological Park
An archaeological site holding remnants of an ancient settlement, probably from the Srivijayan era, with networks of artificial canals. The park displays many artefacts including Buddhist statues, pottery and ceramics. There are no major historic structures, since the buildings there were most likely made from perishable materials such as wood rather than brick or stone.
It is on Jl. Syakyakirti in Karang Anyar, Gandus, about a 5.5 km or 25-minute drive from the city centre, and open 08:00 to 18:00. Set expectations around the artefacts and the canal layout rather than standing monuments.
12. Ong Boen Tjiet's House
The former residence of Ong Boen Tjiet, a well-known 20th-century Palembang merchant of Chinese-Indonesian background. It faces the Musi on its southern bank and mixes Palembang Malay and Chinese architectural elements, and it hosts collections owned and maintained privately by his family.
It is on Lorong Saudagar Yucing no. 55 in 3-4 Ulu, Seberang Ulu I, reachable by a 10-minute motorboat trip from the Kuto Besak piers. It can also be reached by land, though the alleyways to the house fit motorcycles only. It is open 11:00 to 17:00 and admission is Rp10,000.
13. Palembang Mayoral Office
Built in the early 20th century and influenced by De stijl architecture, this building was the tallest in Palembang when it was first inaugurated. It originally served a dual function as a water tower and city hall, and it now hosts the city's mayoral office.
It is on Jl. Merdeka no. 1 in 22 Ilir, Bukit Kecil, about a 750 m or 12-minute walk from the Ampera LRT stop. It is an exterior stop on a walking route rather than a site to tour inside.
14. Jakabaring Sport City
The sports complex whose Gelora Sriwijaya Stadium hosted parts of the 2011 Southeast Asian Games and the 2018 Asian Games. On Sunday morning it is a popular spot for locals to converge, jog or exercise.
It is on Jl. Gub. H. A. Bastari in 15 Ulu, Jakabaring, at the Jakabaring LRT stop. Entry is Rp2,000 per person, counted for each passenger of a vehicle separately, Rp5,000 per motorcycle and Rp10,000 per car. Go on a Sunday morning if you want the atmosphere rather than an empty stadium.
15. Bayt Al-Qur'an Al-Akbar
This site claims to house the largest wood-carved copy of the Quran in the world, displayed page by page on 15-metre-high galleries. Reviews are mixed: many travellers call it a must visit on a trip to Palembang, while others complain about a long drive on bad roads to a rural area and poor access for disabled people.
It is at Pondok Pesantren IGM Al Ihsaniyah, Jl. M. Amin Fauzi, Soak Bujang, Gandus, roughly a 14 km or 40-minute drive from the city centre. Admission was Rp20,000 as of February 2020. Weigh the drive against your remaining time before committing to it.
If you only have one day
Morning. Start at the Grand Mosque of Palembang on Jl. Jend. Sudirman, then cross to the People's Struggle Monument (Monpera) opposite for its museum and courtyard. Walk or ride the short distance to the Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum, which opens at 08:00 on weekdays, to see the city's story from Srivijaya through the colonial period. If you are making the day on a weekend, note the museum opens at 09:00.
Afternoon. Head to Kuto Besak and its plaza, the city's main square, and find the 3 Belido Fish Monument. From the piers here, take a motorboat across the river or out to Kemaro Island, where the Hok Tjing Bio Temple and the Kemaro Island Pagoda sit in a single Buddhist compound. Return to the northern bank in time to walk the riverfront at Kuto Besak and 16 Ilir as the light softens.
Evening. Stay on the water for the late afternoon breeze, with the Ampera Bridge in view, and eat at one of the warung terapung, the floating eateries on the east side of the bridge, which serve local delicacies. Finish by crossing or simply watching the Ampera Bridge, which is lit and open around the clock.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get around the main sights?
The Ampera LRT stop serves Ampera Bridge, the Grand Mosque of Palembang, Kuto Besak, the People's Struggle Monument and the Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum, all in the Bukit Kecil area. The Palembang Mayoral Office is about a 750 m or 12-minute walk from the same stop. Balaputradewa Museum is a 700 m or 10-minute walk from the RSUD LRT stop, and Jakabaring Sport City has its own Jakabaring LRT stop.
Which sights are free, and what do the others cost?
Ampera Bridge, the Grand Mosque of Palembang and the Kuto Besak plaza area are free of charge. The People's Struggle Monument and the Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum are Rp5,000 for general admission, with the museum charging foreign tourists Rp20,000. Balaputradewa Museum is Rp5,000 for general admission and Rp15,000 for foreign tourists. Ong Boen Tjiet's House is Rp10,000, and Bayt Al-Qur'an Al-Akbar was Rp20,000 as of February 2020.
When should I visit the museums?
The Sultan Mahmud Badaruddin II Museum opens 08:00 to 17:00 on weekdays and 09:00 to 17:00 on weekends and public holidays. Balaputradewa Museum opens 08:30 to 15:30 Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Mondays and public holidays. The People's Struggle Monument is open 08:00 to 18:00, and the Sriwijaya Kingdom Archaeological Park is open 08:00 to 18:00.
How do I reach Kemaro Island and Ong Boen Tjiet's House?
Both are reached by boat from the Kuto Besak piers. Kemaro Island is a 30-minute motorboat trip, and Ong Boen Tjiet's House is a 10-minute motorboat trip. Ong Boen Tjiet's House can also be reached by land, but the alleyways to it fit motorcycles only. Boat prices vary with the length of the trip and the number of passengers; a crossing of under 2 km usually costs Rp5,000 per person.
Start with the riverfront and the Ampera LRT corridor, then decide how far out along the Musi you want to go.