Stand on the ramparts of Benteng Oranje in the late afternoon and the whole shape of Ternate becomes clear: a volcanic island with a sultan's palace behind you, the sea in front, and Tidore sitting on the horizon. The air smells of cloves, and the streets below run between a church, a Chinese temple and a mosque built by a sultanate that once fought the Portuguese, the Spanish and the Dutch for the spice trade.
Ternate suits travellers who are comfortable with a place that is functional rather than polished, who like forts, crater lakes and black-sand beaches more than resorts, and who are willing to dress modestly and take their shoes off when a site asks for it. It is also a good base for snorkelling and diving, including the chance to see the endemic walking shark.
This guide covers the sights and experiences in and around the city, the practical details that come with them, and how to string the best of them into a single day.
Top things to do in Ternate
1. Museum Kedaton Kesultanan Ternate
This museum highlights the past rule of the Sultanate of Ternate and is housed in the actual palace built for the sultan in 1813. It is the single best introduction to the island's history, and the setting does as much work as the collection.
It opens 08:00-14:00 Tuesday to Sunday and is closed on Monday. No shorts are allowed, and you must remove your shoes at the entrance. Entry is free but a donation is requested. The Ternate Sultanate Mosque is on the same grounds, and Legu Gam is held in April at Lapangan Salero, in front of the museum.
2. Benteng Oranje
On Jl. Hasan Boesoeri in Gamalama, this is the largest fort on Ternate island. Its thick walls are, despite frequent earthquakes, still in good condition, and it represented the heart of Dutch operations in the Spice Islands until Dutch interests moved on to Batavia.
One of the buildings houses a small branch of the National Indonesian archive (Arsip) that you can visit free of charge. Opening hours are 07:45-16:30 Monday to Thursday and 07:45-11:00 on Friday, closed Saturday and Sunday. Masjid Raya Al Munawwar Ternate sits just southeast of the fort on the coast, and Taman Nukila is a short walk south.
3. Taman Nukila
This seaside park on Jl. Sultan Muhammad Iskandar Djabir has a promenade and benches for viewing the great expanse of land and sea. It is the easiest place in the city to slow down at the end of the day.
Immediately to the south is the Ternate Landmark, a monument that offers good selfie and sunrise viewing opportunities. Come early for the sunrise or in the evening for the promenade.
4. Lake Tolire
Danau Tolire Besar is a crater lake with green water that supposedly hosts a small crocodile population, with Mount Gamalama in the background. There are trails to the rim of the lake, and a wild legend is associated with it.
It is open 06:00-18:00 daily and charges a small entry fee. Go in the morning for clearer views of the mountain before cloud builds.
5. Benteng Kalamata
Fort Kalamata is a Portuguese star fort built in 1540 that later saw occupation by Dutch and British forces and then restoration by Indonesia in 1994. It was originally called Santa Lucia.
It offers a good view of Tidore from its ramparts and is open 08:00-18:00 daily. Pair it with Kastela Beach below Fort Kastela for sunset.
6. Falajawa Beach
At Jl. Falajawa No.1, Muhajirin, Ternate Tengah, this beach is open 24 hours and is the place to dive for the endemic species of walking shark (Hemiscyllum halmahera), known in Indonesian as hiu berjalan.
This is a specific reason to bring or arrange dive gear rather than just a swimsuit. Ask locally about conditions before you go in.
7. Sulamadaha Beach
Pantai Sulamadaha is a pretty black sand beach surrounded by trees, with clear calm waters good for snorkelling.
The calm water makes it the most forgiving of the beaches for a first snorkel. Combine it with the northern forts if you are working your way around the coast.
8. Jikomalamo Beach
Pantai Jikomalamo is another nice beach for swimming, snorkelling and diving.
Treat it as an alternative to Sulamadaha when you want a second day in the water, or when the first is busy.
9. Batu Angus
This is an observation area of old lahar from Mount Gamalama, with a picnic area and a viewpoint over the other islands of Maluku. It charges a small admission fee.
Bring food and make it a stop rather than a destination in itself, and keep an eye on the weather if you are heading up towards the mountain.
10. Lake Ngade
Danau Ngade is another lake, this one with views of Tidore Island and Mount Kiematabu.
It works well as a quiet stop between the city and the beaches to the south.
11. Taman Moya Mabuku
In Moya, Ternate Tengah, this is a park in a hilly area for seeing the view of downtown Ternate. It is open 24 hours and is free.
It is best in the afternoon or evening, when the light drops and the city below comes on.
12. Benteng Tolukko
This Portuguese fort was constructed in 1512 and over the years also saw occupation by the Dutch, the British and a Sultanate. It was abandoned in 1864 and then became the focus of renovation efforts in 1996.
It is open 08:00-17:00 daily. Its shape is distinctive, and it fits naturally into a circuit of the northern coastal sites.
13. Kastela Beach
Pantai Kastela, below Fort Kastela, is a nice beach for watching sunsets.
Time your visit so you arrive before the light goes, and treat the fort above as part of the same stop.
14. Bobane Ici Beach
Pantai Bobane Ici is a beautiful beach with two pools and a cafe.
The cafe makes it the most comfortable of the beaches if you want to sit for a while rather than move on quickly.
15. Mount Gamalama
Climbing Mount Gamalama is possible, but exercise caution in consideration of its volcanic volatility and its past eruption in 2011.
Check current conditions locally before committing to a climb, and do not treat it as a casual walk.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Museum Kedaton Kesultanan Ternate when it opens at 08:00, remembering that shorts are not allowed and shoes come off at the entrance. From there, walk to the Ternate Sultanate Mosque on the same grounds, then continue to Benteng Oranje and, if it is a weekday, look in on the archive branch inside. Masjid Raya Al Munawwar Ternate is just southeast of the fort on the coast.
Afternoon: Head north to Benteng Tolukko, open until 17:00, then continue to Benteng Kalamata, open until 18:00, for the view of Tidore from its ramparts. If you would rather be in the water, swap the forts for snorkelling at Sulamadaha Beach.
Evening: Finish at Taman Nukila, walking the promenade and continuing south to the Ternate Landmark for the sunset. If you have energy left, Taman Moya Mabuku is free and open around the clock for the view over downtown Ternate.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Museum Kedaton Kesultanan Ternate open?
It is open 08:00-14:00 Tuesday to Sunday and closed on Monday. No shorts are allowed, you must remove your shoes at the entrance, and entry is free with a donation requested.
Can non-Muslims enter the mosques in Ternate?
Masjid Raya Al Munawwar Ternate does not allow entry for non-Muslims. Plan to view it from outside, where its position on the shoreline is the point.
Where can you see the walking shark?
Falajawa Beach on Jl. Falajawa No.1, Muhajirin, Ternate Tengah, is the place to dive for the endemic walking shark, Hemiscyllum halmahera. The beach is open 24 hours.
What should you wear at the palace museum?
No shorts are allowed, and you must remove your shoes at the entrance. Dress accordingly before you arrive, since the museum is one of the first places most visitors go.
Pick the fort, the palace and one beach that matter most to you, check the opening days against your dates, and start building your Ternate itinerary around them.