At dawn on the Martapura River, small boats crowd together hull to hull, and traders pass bananas, vegetables and breakfast cakes across the water while the city is still cool. This is Banjarmasin at its most characteristic: a river city on a delta island near the confluence of the Barito and Martapura rivers, where much of the commerce still happens on water.
Banjarmasin suits travellers who are willing to rise early, get on a boat and accept a city that shows its life on the river rather than in polished attractions. Its Banjarese architectural heritage, its mosques and its canal-side suburbs reward slow, curious wandering more than box-ticking.
1. Floating markets
Every morning, farmers and traders bring their goods to trade on boats, and trading runs from dawn until around 09:00. It has always been a farmers' market, and watching the river-based way of life is the main reason to come.
Get there early, since the market winds down by mid-morning, and note that the journey takes around 20 minutes by boat. Floating markets are also worth visiting at weekends.
2. Pasar Terapung Siring Banjarmasin
One of the floating markets in South Kalimantan, on Jalan Siring Tandean. It is a straightforward way to see the boat-to-boat trading that defines Banjarmasin's rivers.
Combine it with the rest of the Siring promenade, which is where the floating markets are found, and plan your visit for the early morning hours when trading is under way.
3. Siring Martapura River Park/Bekantan Statue
This is the promenade along the Martapura River, where floating markets are found as well as the Bekantan Statue, a monkey statue that gives the stretch its local name. The main component extends from the statue northward past the Menara Pandang.
Walk it in the morning to catch the market activity, or return in the evening when the area around the tower comes alive with lights.
4. Menara Pandang Banjarmasin
A four-storey observation tower of peculiar architecture from which you can view the Martapura River and the expanse of Banjarmasin. It has a lot of resident cats, and food vendors nearby.
Come at night, when it comes alive with lights, and pair it with a walk along the Siring promenade, which passes the tower.
5. Masjid Sultan Suriansyah
The oldest mosque in South Kalimantan, more than 300 years old, on Jl. Kuin Utara. Built during Pangeran Samudera's rule, it is the first mosque in South Kalimantan and contains the royal burial site.
Visit it as part of the remnants of the palace ground in Kampung Kraton, along Jalan Pangeran Samudera, which the colonial Dutch destroyed.
6. Museum Waja Sampai Ka Puting
On Jl. Kampung Kenanga, this was an old and genuine Banjarese traditional house in "Bubungan Tinggi" style, the most bona fide of the twelve traditional Banjarese house styles, before it was transformed into a museum.
It is the clearest single place to see traditional Banjarese building technique, since such houses have lost their popularity in modern times.
7. Masjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin
A giant modern mosque on Jalan Jendral Sudirman No.1, completed in 1981. Its name was taken from a popular classical Islamic jurisprudence text by Syeikh Muhammad Arsyad Al-Banjary, the "Kitab Sabilal Muhtadin", meaning "the right path".
It is a central, easy-to-reach stop in the city, and its scale makes it a useful contrast to the much older Masjid Sultan Suriansyah.
8. Canal trips
The waterlogged suburbs traversed by canals are the main attractions, and much of the city's commerce takes place on water. There are many destinations and ways to do a canal trip, for example along the Kelayan River or the Kuin River.
To reach the islands and canals you will need to employ a local to take you by boat, a "ketolok" (small motor boat) or similar. Ask around and negotiate a price.
9. Pulau Kembang
Literally "Flower Island", reached in about 20 minutes by boat, where you can visit the long-tailed macaques at the decrepit Chinese temple. You can buy nuts to feed them.
The monkeys are quite aggressive if you have food and will try to steal it from you, so keep anything edible out of sight. There is an entrance fee of Rp 150,000, and on Sunday it is Rp 250,000, with prices correct as of January 2018.
10. Pulau Kaget
Literally "Surprised Island", where you can see the proboscis monkey, the mascot fauna of South Kalimantan. There is no guarantee you will have a good look at them, though, as they are really shy.
Set your expectations accordingly and treat any sighting as a bonus rather than a certainty.
11. Pulau Bakut
The island under the bridge, where there is also proboscis monkey. You do not go onto the island, but you can see the monkeys from the boat.
The cost is Rp 600,000, which can be haggled down, with the price correct as of January 2018.
12. Pasar Ahad weekend market
On Sunday morning, locals have a tradition of walking, running, jogging or cycling to a suburb called "Pal Tujuh" to attend the "Pasar Ahad", or Sunday Market. Enjoy local treats such as Ketupat Kandangan and Apam for breakfast there.
Go on Sunday morning, and go on foot or by bicycle to join the local habit rather than arriving by vehicle.
13. Fishing in the Martapura River
The Martapura River is fished for specimens such as Haruan, Papuyu, Sapat, Patin, Lele and many more. It is a quiet way to spend time on the water that the city is built around.
Combine it with a morning on the river, when the floating markets are also active.
14. Jahri Saleh Zoo
Visit with that in mind.
It is a lower priority than the river and the architectural heritage, and worth choosing only if you have time to spare.
15. Waterboom Alfin
A large outdoor swimming pool with some slides and other attractions, on Jalan Tembus Mantui, Kelayan Selatan, Banjarmasin Selatan.
It is a straightforward way to spend a hot part of the day, and pairs naturally with a canal trip along the Kelayan River nearby.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start before dawn at the floating markets, trading from dawn until around 09:00, and take in Pasar Terapung Siring Banjarmasin on Jalan Siring Tandean. Afterwards, walk the Siring Martapura River Park/Bekantan Statue promenade from the statue northward.
Afternoon: Head to Kampung Kraton along Jalan Pangeran Samudera to see Masjid Sultan Suriansyah, the oldest mosque in South Kalimantan, with its royal burial site. Then visit Museum Waja Sampai Ka Puting on Jl. Kampung Kenanga for a genuine Banjarese house in "Bubungan Tinggi" style, and finish with Masjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin on Jalan Jendral Sudirman No.1.
Evening: Return to Menara Pandang Banjarmasin, which comes alive with lights at night, for views over the Martapura River and the expanse of the city, and eat at the food vendors nearby.
When should I go to the floating markets?
Trading is from dawn until around 09:00, so get there early. The journey takes around 20 minutes by boat.
How do I reach the islands and canals?
You will need to employ a local to take you by boat, a "ketolok" (small motor boat) or other. Ask around and negotiate a price.
What should I watch out for at Pulau Kembang?
The monkeys are quite aggressive if you have food and will try to steal it from you. There is an entrance fee of Rp 150,000, and on Sunday it is Rp 250,000, with prices correct as of January 2018.
What is there to do on a Sunday morning?
Locals walk, run, jog or cycle to a suburb called "Pal Tujuh" to attend the "Pasar Ahad", or Sunday Market, where you can enjoy local treats such as Ketupat Kandangan and Apam for breakfast.
Decide on your dates, plan your first morning around the floating markets, and the rest of Banjarmasin will arrange itself along the river.