Stand at the crossroads in the centre of Semarapura and you are standing on the spot where the Klungkung kingdom made its last stand. The Puputan Monument rises from the middle of the intersection, and a short walk along Jalan Puputan brings you to the painted ceilings of the old royal court. This is a town where the history is not fenced off behind glass; it is simply part of the street plan.
Klungkung suits travellers who are already in Bali and want a day or two of Balinese history and classical art rather than beaches and bars. Semarapura is easily reached from Gianyar via the highway, which makes it a straightforward stop between the Gianyar and Karangasem sides of the island.
This guide covers the sights in and around Semarapura, the villages nearby that carry on the region's painting traditions, and the coastal temple and river you pass on the way east. Everything below can be fitted into a single full day, or spread over two at a slower pace.
Top things to do in Klungkung
1. Taman Gili (Kertha Gosa)
These are the remains of the original palace of the Klungkung royal family on Jalan Puputan. The painted ceiling of the Kerta Gosa pavilion is the only surviving example of classical wayang art in the whole of Bali, which makes it the single strongest reason to come to Klungkung. Much of the rest of the palace was destroyed in the fighting with the Dutch in the early 20th century, but other remnants remain.
It is open daily from 07:00 to 18:00 and the entrance fee is Rp 6,000. The local government tourist office is also located here, so it is a sensible first stop for orienting yourself in town.
2. Klungkung Palace (Kertha Gosa Pavilion)
The 17th-century palace and court of justice in Semarapura, and the historic core of the town. Come here to understand what the royal court of Klungkung actually was before the events of the early 20th century.
Pair it with Taman Gili, which sits in the same area and preserves the palace remains and the famous painted ceiling. Allow time to read the panels rather than walking straight through.
3. Puputan Monument
At the crossroads in the town centre, this monument commemorates the 200 Balinese from the Klungkung royal family and court who died in the sacrificial puputan when fighting the Dutch in 1908. The large four-sided statue in the centre of the same crossroads is the Kandi Pat Sare, which symbolically guards the four cardinal points of the earth.
Because it stands at a working junction, the practical approach is to visit on foot as part of a walk along Jalan Puputan rather than trying to stop a vehicle beside it.
4. Gunarsa Museum of Classical & Modern Art (Museum Seni Lukis Klasik Bali)
In Takmung village, 5 km west of the town centre on the main road to Gianyar. It is owned by Nyoman Gunarsa, one of Bali's most famous modern artists, and exhibits his work, alongside a huge collection of traditional Balinese art and other objects. It gets far fewer visitors than it deserves.
It is open Monday to Saturday from 09:00 to 21:00 and admission is Rp 25,000. Because it sits on the Gianyar road, it works well as your first or last stop if you are arriving from or leaving towards Gianyar.
5. Kamasan village
Head south out of the town on Jalan Puputan towards Gelgel; Kamasan is signposted on the left. This ancient village is the centre of the classical wayang style of painting, with many studios to visit and a large amount of art to appreciate.
Combine it with Taman Gili: seeing the painted ceiling first makes the work in the Kamasan studios easier to read, since the same tradition runs through both.
6. Pura Goa Lawah (Bat Cave Temple)
In Pesinggahan, this is one of the nine directional temples in Bali and important to all Balinese Hindus. The temple is built in front of a cave where thousands of bats sleep during the day.
If you come shortly after sunset you will see the bats flying out of the temple in massive clouds. There is an entrance fee, and you need to wear a sash and sarong, which can be rented at the entrance.
7. Pura Masceti
On Jl Prof Dr Ida Bagus Mantra at Pantai Masceti. From Klungkung, head 7 km south east to Kusamba, where you turn west on the main bypass road that eventually leads back to Sanur; Pura Masceti is beachside after about 15 km. It is the least known and least visited of Bali's nine directional temples, serving as a guardian to the island from evil sea spirits.
It is elaborately decorated and is often the start point for large purification ceremonies on the nearby beaches. Go as part of the coastal drive rather than as a standalone trip.
8. River Unda
East of Klungkung, this is one of Bali's major rivers, and you travel over it via a large bridge when leaving the town heading towards Padang Bai.
It is a natural marker on the road east rather than a destination in itself, so note it as you pass and combine it with a stop at Pura Goa Lawah further along the same route.
If you only have one day
Morning: Start at Taman Gili (Kertha Gosa) when it opens at 07:00, while the light on the painted ceiling is still soft and the tour traffic is thin. Walk the short distance to Klungkung Palace (Kertha Gosa Pavilion) and then to the Puputan Monument at the crossroads, taking in the Kandi Pat Sare.
Afternoon: Head south out of town on Jalan Puputan towards Gelgel and follow the signs to Kamasan village, where you can visit the painting studios. If you arrived from or are heading towards Gianyar, fit in the Gunarsa Museum of Classical & Modern Art on the main road to Gianyar, open until 21:00 Monday to Saturday.
Evening: Drive east over the River Unda towards Padang Bai and finish at Pura Goa Lawah in Pesinggahan. Arrive shortly after sunset to watch the bats leave the cave in clouds. Remember your sash and sarong, which can be rented at the entrance.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Klungkung?
Semarapura town is easily reached from Gianyar via the highway. If you are coming from the east, you cross the River Unda on a large bridge when leaving the town heading towards Padang Bai.
What is Klungkung known for?
The regency is famous for its classic Balinese paintings, which mostly depict the story of epics such as the Mahabharata or the Ramayana. These classical style paintings come from the frescoes of the Balinese palaces and can also be found at Klungkung Palace in the downtown area.
When is the best time to visit Pura Goa Lawah?
Come shortly after sunset, when you will get to see the bats flying out of the temple in massive clouds. They sleep in the cave during the day.
Do I need special clothing for the temples?
At Pura Goa Lawah you need to wear a sash and sarong, and these can be rented at the entrance. There is also an entrance fee to be paid there.
Work out which of these fits your route between Gianyar and Padang Bai, and the day will plan itself.